4 replies to this topic

[simaooliveira]

Hi everyone, hope someone can shed some light on something that's been driving me insane the last weeks. I've bought for cheap a 1275GT instrument block for my french Rover Mini British Open ('93, carb). Originally it came with a fully functioning Nippon Seikki 2-clock dash. I've been trying to install it but ran into some issues.

 

First i had problems getting the speedometer to work, which i ended up realizing was down to the connector on the speedo cable being different.

 

Now, I have a different issue - the fuel gauge is working almost randomly. Sometimes I'll turn the ignition on and get the needle to go up (fully up), only for it to go down 1 or 2 minutes after, showing an empty tank. Also, if I tilt the instrument cluster, it (sometimes) makes the needle go up or down. Do you think I have a broken gauge? I had changed the voltage stabilizer before thinking that might have been the issue, but the same problem arises with a new one.

 

Thanks for any clues on this!

[Tornado99]

Confirm the replaced voltage reg is actually working right. Minispares sells a solid state type to replace the original electro-mechanical types.

Check the resistance reading from the tank sender wiring at full, half and empty positions to confirm if readings are consistent. Test at the tank and at the dash end, there was a recent thread where someone found a bad wire short before reaching the guage.

[simaooliveira]

I actually have a solid state among 3 different voltage stabilizers (original worn, traditional new, solid state new), so I think we can solidly discard that option. I will take a look at the wiring, but on the tank end I don't think there are any issues considering all works normally with the original dashboard.

What are the best placements for checking resistance behind the dash? The two screws holding the gauge against the PCB, right? What values should I be looking for on the multimeter? I think I've read something along 240-33, does this sound about right? Thanks!

[simaooliveira]

I should also add that the PCB itself is brand new, as the one that came with the dashboard had broken circuits here and there, as seems to be usual in older 3-clock set-ups.

[Ol timer]

I had the same thing and it was a corroded connection on the tank end. Cut the wires and put new connectors on