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Main Dipped Beam Not Working - Just Before Mot :-(

electrical

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#1 Park

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Posted 24 March 2024 - 04:27 PM

Hi All - I am at the point of giving up on this one

 

Problem  - no main dipped beam.

 

Car :  1993 Spi  Si+  K reg

 

Sealed Beams  converted  to H4 Lucas units

 

What works  -  everything  electrical

 

What  does not  work  - only main dipped beam.

 

What I have done -  cleaned all the  bullet  connectors  behind grille.    Checked all line fuses - all  OK

 

Fault Finding  -  Dim/Dip relay  works   correctly -   12v  from BL/R  when dash switch is pressed  to second position and ignition on.

 

But  -  0v at the  BL/R  bullet connects behind grille.

 

My guess - the harness is burnt out , due  to the  H4? , between the Dim/Dip relay  and  grille  bullet connectors .

 

 

Questions

 

1)    Has anyone has this problem?   Where  could the burnout  be ?  Where is the best place to look?

 

2)    If  I can't  fix  the  harness, what is the best way to run a new  wire from the dim/dip relay to bullet connectors.

 

I can solve most  problems on my mini  but this one has me stumped.

 

Thank you  for any  ideas  

 

Paul Arkley 

 

 

 

 



#2 bpirie1000

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 05:19 AM

Have you checked the basics.

Check the bulb.

Check the earth

Check the wires at the headlamp are all plugged in and appear in order.
Then get more complex....


Check the switch. Find the junction box und3r the steering column,um and make sure you have a connection at the first section so long as you have power there it is a case of tracing the wires.

Check these and come back.. sure it will be simple enough.. have faith and a decent voltmeter...

I SWEAR BY MY ELECTRICAL TOOL.
SIMILAR TO THIS...

https://www.amazon.c...2c5b661bf4c41c3

#3 cal844

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 10:10 AM

Check behind the speedo binnacle for 4 inline fuses, these are for dipped and main beam. My 1993 car has them.

#4 Park

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 11:04 AM

Thanks for the replies 

 

I have check the circuit - with a  meter.  no lamps or  fuses (line & block) blown.   I get   12v  at the Dim/Dip   relay    - Relay works correctly.

 

I am getting 0v  at the  grille bullet connectors.  

 

There  is  a break  in the  harness  somewhere between the Dim/Dip  relay  and the grille.

 

I  have checked  the harness  for  burn or rubbing  marks  -  can't  see anything.  I assume that  higher  wattage H4 's (60W) have  create too  much heat  in the harness burnt the harness - luckily everything else is working :-)

 

My solution is -  to  run a new, higher rated wire, alongside  the harness  from the  dim/dip  relay to the grille  connectors.

 

Thanks  again 

 

 

Paul  Arkley



#5 coopertaz

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 11:20 AM

as mentioned the fuses behind instrument cluster are inline with blue red between dim dip relay and lamps and are crap inline glass fuse type, not shown on wiring diagrams either, are you getting voltage at these? if so give connectors and fuse ends good clean.



#6 Park

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 11:34 AM

Hi  Coopertaz

 

there are  more  inline  fused  behind the  cluster ?   Its a  93  with   the  old Lucas  fuse box +  Off the top of my head  - there are  7 inline fuses behind the air filter  housing  in the  engine bay.

 

So there  are more  in the car ?   - behind the cluster ?    More Rover madness ?

 

You are  right  - none  are shown in the Haynes book for a 92  car.

 

I just want  to double check  before  I pull  that  dash  off.    Any more information ?

 

Brill if is a blown fuse :-)

 

Ta 

 

Paul Arkley



#7 coopertaz

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 11:42 AM

 yes they are behind the dash on drivers side, found them when redoing loom on other halfs' 92 italian job this was carb. but believe will be there on 93 spi. as you say still has old style fuse box. My 95spi had fuse box inside modified to blade type.


Edited by coopertaz, 25 March 2024 - 11:46 AM.


#8 Park

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 12:41 PM

Thanks  - So  these fuses  can't  be that far  from the pink dim/dip  relay  which  sort of makes sense .

 

Why are they not on any wiring diagram ?     I have not found a decent  wring diagram  for  92/93 mini.

 

I'll have a look

 

Ta 

 

Paul.



#9 Ethel

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 01:04 PM

You won't melt the copper, just the insulation. If it was overloaded you'd likely get shorting, so earth continuity where there shouldn't be any or voltage on circuits that aren't switched on or volts on what should be isolated bits of the dip beam circuit.

 

Of course, the above would also go with blown headlight fuses, if you have them. If you do, there'll also be a splice to separate it in to L & R before the fuses. If there's a break it would be a suspect.

 

The wiring ought to be up to running halogens.



#10 coopertaz

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 01:10 PM

don't know why not on diagram but did find them surprised me too. also didn't know rover did injection with old style fuse box in engine bay. assumed all square blade type inside like my 95 car!! I use diagrams from 1996 haynes seem pretty reliable



#11 coopertaz

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 01:12 PM

You won't melt the copper, just the insulation. If it was overloaded you'd likely get shorting, so earth continuity where there shouldn't be any or voltage on circuits that aren't switched on or volts on what should be isolated bits of the dip beam circuit.

 

Of course, the above would also go with blown headlight fuses, if you have them. If you do, there'll also be a splice to separate it in to L & R before the fuses. If there's a break it would be a suspect.

 

The wiring ought to be up to running halogens.

having melted my wiring with spots back in the day you can certainly smell it too



#12 Ethel

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Posted 25 March 2024 - 01:27 PM

don't know why not on diagram but did find them surprised me too. also didn't know rover did injection with old style fuse box in engine bay. assumed all square blade type inside like my 95 car!! I use diagrams from 1996 haynes seem pretty reliable

 

We've got  decent diagrams on TMF https://www.theminif...agrams-redrawn/

 

Maybe Rover had an "if it ain't broke never worked, don't fix it" philosophy to vehicle electrics :P .

 

...who doesn't love a game of hunt the inline fuse?



#13 Park

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Posted 26 March 2024 - 02:55 PM

Hi  All, 

 

I have just crawled under the dash  -  difficult for fat old boy -  and Eureka! there are inline fuses tucked under the dash.    From the little I can  see  -one of the fuses has a blue/red  wire  - Dipped/Main beam !     

 

So  the next  question  - what is the best way of getting at them ?

 

How did  Rover expect  someone to find those  fuses  - nevermind changed  them.

 

I have owned this car  for 31 years  and never knew those fuses existed. 

 

Looks  like  a job for Easter Weekend. 

 

Thank you  all  for your help     (Coopertaz  &  Cal844)

 

Paul Arkley



#14 Davidmt

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Posted 26 March 2024 - 03:36 PM

Find someone with a small body, short arms and enjoys yoga!

 

I have just removed my dash - not too hard and found the flasher relay that I needed to change right at the top behind the dials.  Needless to say I extended the wiring and moved it to a more accessible position.  I would suggest the same to anyone once the dash is removed.  Changing the fuse should be doable without removing the dash but will take some patience and flexibility - another pair of hand with a torch is always helpful especially when you drop the fuse - which you will do!


Edited by Davidmt, 26 March 2024 - 03:39 PM.


#15 cal844

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Posted 26 March 2024 - 08:02 PM

There should be 2 blue/red and 2 blue/white
....

Access is a pig but if I remember correctly I got to them between the heater and pedal box, it was tight though





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