84 replies to this topic

[Spider]

I might get in trouble for this and if re removed I understand - Graeme, Spiderr,Soncar etc, take a look on my site and you will see vid showing how much movement of clutch

https://www.facebook...mibextid=S66gvF


I am going back out today to check as bleed clutch last night and fitted new return spring, plunger, bolt, arm, and have a new braided hose - will report back

Admin, I am sorry if I broke rules by posting my site and understand if this is removed

 

Mate, you won't get in to trouble here for posting that !

It does appear to have enough movement there.

If you can get a hold of a helper and you have the timing inspection hole on your clutch cover, open the hatch on that, turn the engine over until one of the Diaphragm Bolts appear in that hole. You can then measure the amount of movement you are getting through that hole while your helper operates the clutch.

 

You'll need at least 1.0 mm movement here and when everything's in good order, they will usually go to about 1.5 mm.

[postve]

Hey spider, I never knew that and yes I have the hole as marked TDC a few years ago. I will definitely do that as I was looking all over the internet to find a solid baseline to measure - again appreciate the feedback and out of town a few days and will be back at it tomorrow - I suspect clutch is good but want more validation - thx m8 this is by and far the best forum for tips and tricks

Curious though, I assume you eyeball it as in engine and will be using a mirror - just like I did when I set my timing - that was a lot of fun - lol

Edited by postve, 24 November 2022 - 12:31 AM.

[Spider]

Hey spider, I never knew that and yes I have the hole as marked TDC a few years ago. I will definitely do that as I was looking all over the internet to find a solid baseline to measure - again appreciate the feedback and out of town a few days and will be back at it tomorrow - I suspect clutch is good but want more validation - thx m8 this is by and far the best forum for tips and tricks

Curious though, I assume you eyeball it as in engine and will be using a mirror - just like I did when I set my timing - that was a lot of fun - lol

 

Cheers for the kind words here and yes, I agree, this is a great forum


You can use something like a 6" steel rule to measure it if your eyes are good, or if you have a dial gauge, on a magnetic base, you could bolt up a piece of steel to one of the Clutch Cover bolts to mount it on and use that. If you set it up just in the right way, you may even be able to stand outside the drivers door, operate the peddle with your left foot while watching the dial gauge.

[postve]

Spider - the last part is exactly what I want to do as prefer on my time as opposed to keeping a friend hanging around as I do this.  I bought a dial gauge a few years ago off amazon no clue how to use it but again you gave me a good idea and no time like the present to learn

 

One thing I mentioned above and not sure you noticed, on my site you can see the pressure plate separate from the flywheel but, I'll be dammed if I can get the clutch to rotate freely when I insert a screwdriver- I don't think that is normal??  Now, it worked the other day as I was playing around and had the big nut out but made no sense that it would have any impact?

Edited by postve, 24 November 2022 - 06:05 PM.

[Spider]

I did see in your video that the backing plate looked like it separated a nice amount and likely is enough, but sadly that's not a measurement   

 

Keep in mind here too, that the backing plate, that you can see with the starter removed, rotates with the flywheel at all times, I'm not sure you'd actually be able to get to the Clutch Plate itself through there.

 

One thing I think I did observe though with your video clip - and I stress, it may be not the case - it looked like with each successive pump of the pedal, the backing plate was moving further and further away, ie, 'pumping up'. While this may not be occurring and just what I think I am see, if in fact it is, this shows why (once you sort the disengagement issue), you need to fit and adjust the overthrow nuts.

One other thing here that's on the back of my mind that maybe occurring here is the Primary Gear maybe pinched or locking to the Crank.

[postve]

Spider, without a doubt I my plan is to adjust overthrow to specs as again they are there for a reason, similar to filter on my Super charger - sure I could run with out it, long term, pain and sufferings. I thought about the pinching issue so took a picture in there as well, was advised looked normal, thoughts?

 

 

[postve]

Spider, without a doubt I my plan is to adjust overthrow to specs as again they are there for a reason, similar to filter on my Super charger - sure I could run with out it, long term, pain and sufferings. I thought about the pinching issue so took a picture in there as well, was advised looked normal, thoughts?

 

 

 

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Edited by postve, 24 November 2022 - 09:41 PM.

[postve]

Ok was away for a week and the following after firing it up;

- 1st gear - cannot find if my life depended on it
- 2nd gear - no problem
- 3rd gear - next to impossible as if crunchs
- 4th gear - no problem
- reverse - no problem

I found that the afr sensor was wedged against the rod change which enabled me to get into all the gears above

I was able to adjust but AFR still tight against rod change but it moves freely

Thoughts?

[postve]

Okay, swapped the rod change eye bolt sleeve 180 degrees and now get 2/3/4 and reverse.  Since 1st was working before, when off and when I started it in the same, I am thinking it might come down to the fork pin restricting movement   - will advise

[Spider]

It does sound to me like there's an issue with the alignment of the shifter rods and / or the shifter itself to the gearbox, also, when you next have the coupling off, give the shifter stick a good slow movement throughout it's full range of movement to feel for anything that's tight or notchy.

[postve]

It does sound to me like there's an issue with the alignment of the shifter rods and / or the shifter itself to the gearbox, also, when you next have the coupling off, give the shifter stick a good slow movement throughout it's full range of movement to feel for anything that's tight or notchy.

 

I did remove yesterday and today and it seems to move freely and you have a point as they AFR sensor I originally had a too much of an angle @15 degrees as opposed to the 10 degrees recommended on the downpipe which caused the rod change to be wedged against the same - I adjusted and a little better but does touch AFR.   Now this has been the case for the last year so although a little tight it does move.  I am heading out on my lunch soon to check that pin - good advise Spider and will look again.

[postve]

Another thing I will check are the mounts for the shifter, i bet likely they are worn and have replacements for that as well - cannot hurt - almost there!!!

[postve]

It does sound to me like there's an issue with the alignment of the shifter rods and / or the shifter itself to the gearbox, also, when you next have the coupling off, give the shifter stick a good slow movement throughout it's full range of movement to feel for anything that's tight or notchy.

So, adjusted everything did a cross check and now I get 2/3/4/R very smoothly but no first gear. also, sort of a hollow noise coming from the clutch area, removed wok and checked and looked okay though - no first gear??

Also at first no gears, adjusted big nut out more, everything except 1st - tomorrow adjust nut all the way just curious

Edited by postve, 07 December 2022 - 12:25 AM.

[Spider]

 

It does sound to me like there's an issue with the alignment of the shifter rods and / or the shifter itself to the gearbox, also, when you next have the coupling off, give the shifter stick a good slow movement throughout it's full range of movement to feel for anything that's tight or notchy.

So, adjusted everything did a cross check and now I get 2/3/4/R very smoothly but no first gear. also, sort of a hollow noise coming from the clutch area, removed wok and checked and looked okay though - no first gear??

Also at first no gears, adjusted big nut out more, everything except 1st - tomorrow adjust nut all the way just curious

 

 

Seems you're getting somewhere, albeit, slowly.

When the car is stationary, engine off, can you select 1st gear then ? Check it's in gear if you think you can get it in, by pushing the car.

[postve]

Thx Spider as your guidance led me to the rod change which turned out to be the problem, as I suspected the AFR sensor was wedged up against it and prevented proper clutch engagement and also gear engagement. Removed and plugged up AFR connection for now and voila, I get all gears!!

Why was it a problem, I installed AFR sensor on too great of an angle…

Thx mate8 and all those who listens to my whining as I went through this journey

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Edited by postve, 10 December 2022 - 05:25 PM.