64 replies to this topic

[Spider]

Hello

 

Could the balljonts affect if the front wheels won't go back to straight after a turn ?

 

If they are too tight or very badly worn they can do this.

[gaspen]

 

Hello

 

Could the balljonts affect if the front wheels won't go back to straight after a turn ?

 

If they are too tight or very badly worn they can do this.

 

 

My Mini behaves like this. I have the CMJ balljoints in my Mini which I bought directly from Japan. The car has run no more than 2000 km's so I can't say they are worn.

 

I was in a workshop for wheel alignment so it shouls be okay.

[MiNiKiN]

 

 

Hello

 

Could the balljonts affect if the front wheels won't go back to straight after a turn ?

 

If they are too tight or very badly worn they can do this.

 

 

My Mini behaves like this. I have the CMJ balljoints in my Mini which I bought directly from Japan. The car has run no more than 2000 km's so I can't say they are worn.

 

I was in a workshop for wheel alignment so it shouls be okay.

 

What did the workshop set the castor to? The less castor angle, the less "return to centre force" you will get. 

[gaspen]

 

 

 

Hello

 

Could the balljonts affect if the front wheels won't go back to straight after a turn ?

 

If they are too tight or very badly worn they can do this.

 

 

My Mini behaves like this. I have the CMJ balljoints in my Mini which I bought directly from Japan. The car has run no more than 2000 km's so I can't say they are worn.

 

I was in a workshop for wheel alignment so it shouls be okay.

 

What did the workshop set the castor to? The less castor angle, the less "return to centre force" you will get. 

 

 

It was years ago, unfortunately I do not remember  

[68+86auto]

 

 

Hello

 

Could the balljonts affect if the front wheels won't go back to straight after a turn ?

 

If they are too tight or very badly worn they can do this.

 

 

My Mini behaves like this. I have the CMJ balljoints in my Mini which I bought directly from Japan. The car has run no more than 2000 km's so I can't say they are worn.

 

I was in a workshop for wheel alignment so it shouls be okay.

 

 

Jack it up and see how difficult it is to turn the steering. I have an old book which talks about putting a tension gauge on the steering wheel.

Edited by 68+86auto, 07 October 2025 - 11:50 PM.

[gaspen]

Hello

 

I was curious so I made a test bed today. My friend lent me his new C-GSJ166KIT before he install them.

 

It is just the lower and upper arm with the swivel hub.

 

Please feel free to criticism my experiment 

 

How much is the steering angle of the Mini ?

 

 20251101_151453.jpg   40.2K   2 downloads  20251101_151604.jpg   47.57K   1 downloads

 20251101_151808.jpg   71.35K   2 downloads  20251101_151834.jpg   62.77K   1 downloads

Edited by gaspen, 01 November 2025 - 04:56 PM.

[Spider]

I did similar tests a few years back with standard joints. I did them first without bump and rebound stops, since they can and do fail and again with the stops in.

Ideally, you should run these tests without the boots on so you can better see the action.

 

I did find with the lower joint in full droop, anything more than about 5⁰ steering angle would result on contact between the pin and cup.

 

The other thing I discovered was why the factory recommended a packer be fitted to reduce the total full droop when fitting negative camber lower arms.

[gaspen]

I did similar tests a few years back with standard joints. I did them first without bump and rebound stops, since they can and do fail and again with the stops in.

Ideally, you should run these tests without the boots on so you can better see the action.

 

I did find with the lower joint in full droop, anything more than about 5⁰ steering angle would result on contact between the pin and cup.

 

The other thing I discovered was why the factory recommended a packer be fitted to reduce the total full droop when fitting negative camber lower arms.

 

My friend asked me not to dismantle them. Maybe I can convince him...

 

I also have these balljoints in my Mini with basic suspension, and I have no issues

Edited by gaspen, 02 November 2025 - 06:34 AM.

[WanaGo]

Delta Mini newsletter just announced their 2026 version of the Maintenance Free Ball Joints, which they say finally solves some issues.

 

I got some maybe 2 years ago, and they had some clearance issues which would cause the joint to have play. They replaced them for me, and the new ones came with a little washer that sat in the grease recess where the ball joint cup would normally sit, and this solved the spacing issue. I am guessing this 2026 version changed the design so that wasnt required.

 

https://delta-mini.c...mpaign=20251118

 

Upgraded in October 2026! "Maintenance-free ball joints will be further improved."

The clearance between the swivel hub and ball joint has been adjusted again, eliminating the need for the adjustment shim washer used in the previous batch, further increasing durability.

To make it easier to tighten the nut, a hexagonal hole is drilled to prevent the tapered center shaft from turning!

This set of 4 (for one vehicle) is available at an affordable price. Due to its popularity, the price remains unchanged.

 

 

If anyone is curious

 

Cheers

Edited by WanaGo, 18 November 2025 - 04:12 AM.

[gav]

I did similar tests a few years back with standard joints. I did them first without bump and rebound stops, since they can and do fail and again with the stops in.

Ideally, you should run these tests without the boots on so you can better see the action.

 

I did find with the lower joint in full droop, anything more than about 5⁰ steering angle would result on contact between the pin and cup.

 

The other thing I discovered was why the factory recommended a packer be fitted to reduce the total full droop when fitting negative camber lower arms.

 

Which packer? Under the top arm rebound buffer?

[Spider]

 

I did similar tests a few years back with standard joints. I did them first without bump and rebound stops, since they can and do fail and again with the stops in.

Ideally, you should run these tests without the boots on so you can better see the action.

 

I did find with the lower joint in full droop, anything more than about 5⁰ steering angle would result on contact between the pin and cup.

 

The other thing I discovered was why the factory recommended a packer be fitted to reduce the total full droop when fitting negative camber lower arms.

 

Which packer? Under the top arm rebound buffer?

 

 

Hey Gavin, this was in the Special Tuning Publications;-

 

Sadly, they don't say why. I found when running a front subframe through all the motions on the bench just how much the ball joints move and how much they 'have up their sleeve' which is nothing at full compression and full rebound. As mentioned, on full rebound, putting in any steering input will in fact cause the Pin to bind on the cup.

Adding any Negative Camber, will cause that lower joint Pin to contact the cup before it gets to full droop. I am sure this is the leading cause of ball joint breakage, in particular, lower joints.

[Davetom]

So are these Japanese ones good for a lowered car ?

[68+86auto]

Just had a maintenance free ball joint wear out after lets say 300km. Not even filled the tank twice. Off road use but still not at all acceptable.

[Midas Mk1]

Meanwhile i’ve ran a Mini 5 years, just under 40k with the guesswork’s ones. Lowered, 3.5 negative camber static with 4 degs of castor, all fine.

[68+86auto]

Meanwhile i’ve ran a Mini 5 years, just under 40k with the guesswork’s ones. Lowered, 3.5 negative camber static with 4 degs of castor, all fine.

 

I did do 40,000km on another mini before noticing an issue.