..is NOT a girl!
Posted 19 April 2024 - 01:07 PM
That does look like a good job
A little tip for anyone doing the same: With the lever rates involved a few mm can make a lot of difference, so figure out a pattern, or jig to put the hole back as close to original before you weld it up.
You could even drill a couple of small holes in the pedal crank to pin a guide on. Drill it through the clevis hole, then drill the new hole through that.
Camshaft & Stage Two Head
Posted 19 April 2024 - 01:09 PM
that's a good point, I measured off the other one and figured well if anything being slightly high is better than being slightly low and it ended up just slightly above centre
Camshaft & Stage Two Head
Posted 19 April 2024 - 03:37 PM
just realise you probably meant 'distance outwards from the pivot point'...
I guess the closer it is to the pivot, the more strength you apply to the brake (pedal effort is easier) but you have to push it slightly further
conversely the further from the pivot, input effort is slightly reduced (pedal effort is harder) but you don't have to push it quite as far.. have I got that the right way around ..
I can't see 2-3mm or so making a huge deal of difference really but the main thing I suppose is you hit full braking before you hit the bulkhead
I'm assuming that in normal conditions there's a good inch or so gap between pedal and bulkhead at full pressing.. ?
Edited by stuart bowes, 19 April 2024 - 06:43 PM.
Mini Mad
Posted 22 April 2024 - 12:07 PM
These tools are also super handy when working on the Brakes for things like Cylinder replacement as you can lock off the hose and swap out cylinders without making a huge mess.
You've also mentioned the Master Cylinder and Regulator. These maybe the issue but that you say you can get a solid pedal and that they are not leaking tends to make me think they are OK - that's not a guarantee though !
OK another update to this. I bled the brakes again, using a bit more pressure on the EZ bleed (20psi) and they're much more solid. There must have been still a bit of air in there. I then tried overdoing the front adjusters (basically locking the brakes) and the pedal was very high and firm. So I'm convinced there are no issues. Backed them off to a normal adjustment and went for a drive. Everything working beautifully and can heel and toe like a boss.
Camshaft & Stage Two Head
Posted 22 April 2024 - 12:17 PM
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 22 April 2024 - 06:17 PM
OK another update to this. I bled the brakes again, using a bit more pressure on the EZ bleed (20psi) and they're much more solid. There must have been still a bit of air in there. I then tried overdoing the front adjusters (basically locking the brakes) and the pedal was very high and firm. So I'm convinced there are no issues. Backed them off to a normal adjustment and went for a drive. Everything working beautifully and can heel and toe like a boss.
Good work 
I actually find the Easy Bleed good for getting a dry system started in regards to bleeding, but to get all the air out not so good. I've found the old skool method of pumping the pedal with a hose and a jar on the other end a more reliable way of getting all the air out.
Pleased to hear you have a better result.
Mini Mad
Posted 23 April 2024 - 06:34 AM
OK another update to this. I bled the brakes again, using a bit more pressure on the EZ bleed (20psi) and they're much more solid. There must have been still a bit of air in there. I then tried overdoing the front adjusters (basically locking the brakes) and the pedal was very high and firm. So I'm convinced there are no issues. Backed them off to a normal adjustment and went for a drive. Everything working beautifully and can heel and toe like a boss.
Good work
I actually find the Easy Bleed good for getting a dry system started in regards to bleeding, but to get all the air out not so good. I've found the old skool method of pumping the pedal with a hose and a jar on the other end a more reliable way of getting all the air out.
Pleased to hear you have a better result.
That's interesting about the old skool method. The way I have always found that the way that works the best is to build pressure, hold it, open the bleed screw, let the pedal drop to the floor and close it again. Repeat a few times. I think the higher pressure in the lines helps push the bubbles to the end. But on a completely dry system it's hard to get any pressure at all. I increased the pressure in the EZ a bit and also left it connected up while I looked for my spanners and bits of plastic tube so maybe that helped.
Starting My Mini Up
Posted Yesterday, 06:42 AM
So, my question is, what system to reinstall?
I'd suggest your first port of call would be your local rules in NZ as to what the car should have been fitted with when new to comply and then check further to see what modifications you are allowed to do, to what level and if any engineering certification(s) might be needed.
Hi all, I have spoken to the Re certification people and as long as I am installing original designed parts, or upgrade designed parts for a mini, i.e. AP style calipers or minisport 4pot alloy calipers, I do not need any form of engineering certificate. Just proof that its mini specific parts, not some ad-hoc collection of bits. Which is doable, just harder and more hoops.
To save any heartache later I will go for the 4 pot minisport alloy calipers with solid disk now from the start of the process. Vanity reasons and they take photograph evidence of the modifications from original.
My first choice is to go with the diagonal split 1275GT system with the GMC167 MC and 1/2" rear cylinders and no rear valve. As I said before this is easier to copy the original lines from.
Second choice is the front to rear tandem, with the GMC227 MC, 3/4" rear cylinders and the PDWA FAM7821 valve, in line with what one version of the 1275GT had in 78.
Opinions, pointers on my choices before I buy?
cheers Jim.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted Yesterday, 08:39 AM
Opinions, pointers on my choices before I buy?
Working with Factory Parts, I'd suggest a GMC227 Master Cylinder (since you'd like to run a tandem Master), a 13H7757 Valve for the rear brakes and 11/16" Wheel Cylinders in the Rears. The FAM7821 isn't a PDWA Valve but a pressure shut off valve. They would also have to be the worst valve they ever came out with.
For Calipers, the Metro 4 pots in the non-vented type are an easy choice in sticking with factory parts. In their vented versions, they were fitted to the ERA Turbo, though I can't see a vented disc is warranted on any Mini, they also add a lot of unsprung weight as well as increasing the scrub radius on the front wheels.
Mini Mad
Posted Yesterday, 09:19 AM
OK another update to this. I bled the brakes again, using a bit more pressure on the EZ bleed (20psi) and they're much more solid. There must have been still a bit of air in there. I then tried overdoing the front adjusters (basically locking the brakes) and the pedal was very high and firm. So I'm convinced there are no issues. Backed them off to a normal adjustment and went for a drive. Everything working beautifully and can heel and toe like a boss.
Good work
I actually find the Easy Bleed good for getting a dry system started in regards to bleeding, but to get all the air out not so good. I've found the old skool method of pumping the pedal with a hose and a jar on the other end a more reliable way of getting all the air out.
Pleased to hear you have a better result.
I'd strongly second this... a good bit of flow speed is needed to drag bubbles out from places like the drum slave cylinders and the rear brake limiter, because the outlets are not always at the highest points on those parts. I easi-bleed and then afterwards get someone to rapidly press the pedal with the easi-bleed still connected while I do the trad thing of open/close the nipple in sync - and always the pumping gets some more air out of the rears and firms up the pedal.
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