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New Engine Build And Now Getting 120 Psi On Oil Pressure


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#31 imack

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Posted Yesterday, 06:19 PM

Your ball is a smaller diameter than the spring, mine is larger than the spring.
Maybe your spring is a larger diameter than mine.

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#32 nicklouse

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Posted Yesterday, 06:23 PM

Don’t bother with the ball they can cause more issues.

 

the pressure is read after the filter.

 

pressure that high can blow the filter seal.

 

clean out the hole for the bypass remove any ridges from the valve and refit. Order new valve.



#33 Spider

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Posted Yesterday, 06:51 PM

I think your gauge is wrong and leading you on a goose chase.

The Oil Filters are only rated to 100 PSI. At around 120 - 130 PSI the can deforms and will eventually rupture. Even at 100 PSI, you can feel it ballooning. I'd say here too that the 120 PSI is likely all that the sender will allow and if it was able to measure the problem - assuming there really is one - then the pressure will be higher.

If you have a high oil pressure problem, a very common cause for it being this high is the plug on the front of the block has been fitted too deep and it is blocking off the vent port at the back of the Oil Pressure Relief Valve. This one has a slot head plug fitted, but depending on your engine, this is usually a brass plug or a blind pop rivet

 

OPRV-VWM.jpg

If that is in too deep, it will block off the passageway behind it and your oil pressure will be sky high, way over 150 PSI. At these pressures it's a race between the oil filter can blowing up, the oil pump gasket blowing out or depending on the oil pump, the drive for it shearing off.

One test for this is to leave the engine for a day or 2, so the oil will drain back, then remove the spark plugs and crank it over, at first, it will crank quickly, but wehn it gets 'wet' again, it will slow to a crawl, like hitting a brick wall.

BUT

I suspect your gauge is leading you up the garden path here.

Try a known mechanical gauge first before doing anything else. See what that's showing and we can do some more fault finding before going too far.

If you need to change the Valve, as Nick has mentioned do not use the Ball type, they are not suitable for road use;-

https://www.theminif...huttle-vs-ball/

 


 



#34 postve

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Posted Yesterday, 07:15 PM

Thank you Nick/Spider as well, I do have my old
Mechanical gauge and will certainly give that a try as I suspect these “monkey” digital ones off Amazon potentially could be the issue, although I have two?!

#35 Spider

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Posted Yesterday, 07:55 PM

Thank you Nick/Spider as well, I do have my old
Mechanical gauge and will certainly give that a try as I suspect these “monkey” digital ones off Amazon potentially could be the issue, although I have two?!

 

What sender are you using them with ?
Is it one that came with the gauge ?



#36 postve

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Posted Yesterday, 08:17 PM

Yes the one that came with the Chepo digital gauge X 2

#37 nicklouse

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Posted Yesterday, 08:28 PM

I have a guage that can be screwed into the block directly. It can show up issues elsewhere.



#38 postve

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Posted Yesterday, 08:33 PM

It was this load of rubbish - as the English would say - lol

Dynoracing Car 2" 52mm Digital... https://www.amazon.c...op_mob_ap_share

#39 Earwax

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Posted Yesterday, 08:34 PM

Are you sure you have taken any plastic plugs off all the hoses.  ( A close personal friend of mine ( aka ME) started to spin up an engine before remembering to count again his plastic caps  . ( I used to cap the lines to reduce oil drips when taking the motor in and out-  now I check / recheck and have been known to take off and check again that the lines are clear.



#40 postve

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Posted Yesterday, 08:39 PM

Nothing wrong with checking earwax and I generally don’t “cap”, as never thought of doing that before. It’s strange as it did work initially and all of a sudden, jumped to 120psi and won’t come down, hence the reason I parked the car for now. Overall though I am happy with my rebuild as did everything, gears, clutch, brakes, etc myself except for paint and remote

#41 postve

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Posted Yesterday, 08:39 PM

Nothing wrong with checking earwax and I generally don’t “cap”, as never thought of doing that before. It’s strange as it did work initially and all of a sudden, jumped to 120psi and won’t come down, hence the reason I parked the car for now. Overall though I am happy with my rebuild as did everything, gears, clutch, brakes, etc myself except for paint and remote

Especially the gearbox as took the thing apart and rebuilt bottom up - car shifts super smooth now

Edited by postve, Yesterday, 09:12 PM.


#42 Honda-Mini

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Posted Yesterday, 08:57 PM

i may have missed something here, but to me it looks like you had the plunger in the block, then the ball bearing in the plunger being pushed by the spring!

 

surely that would lead to sky high pressure... just remove the ball from the equasion?



#43 postve

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Posted Yesterday, 09:25 PM

Spidey, thinking about your reco and unfortunately not at home but I think I have what you called a “pop rivet” - that I would have not touched in a million years - that being said, are you recommending back it off and insert in again? Either way will fit OEM when I return.

I have a gazillion pictures of the engine and found one which highlights what you messaged about, seems mine was covered up and must be okay as been running this was for the past 20 years

https://imgur.com/a/IlwLpzV

Edited by postve, Yesterday, 09:44 PM.


#44 postve

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Posted Yesterday, 10:55 PM

Great read here from u Spidey

https://www.theminif...huttle-vs-ball/

#45 Spider

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Posted Today, 01:04 AM

Spidey, thinking about your reco and unfortunately not at home but I think I have what you called a “pop rivet” - that I would have not touched in a million years - that being said, are you recommending back it off and insert in again? Either way will fit OEM when I return.

I have a gazillion pictures of the engine and found one which highlights what you messaged about, seems mine was covered up and must be okay as been running this was for the past 20 years

https://imgur.com/a/IlwLpzV

 

Sorry, I should have mentioned, if these plugs haven't been replaced, then the passageways may not be the issue, but I wouldn't discount it altogether.

They are sometimes pulled fr block cleaning when reconditioning, it is good practice. But if the old one isn't removed 100% or the new plug goes in too deep, then it can (will) cause the issues I've mentioned.

For you from here, I would suggest checking the Oil Pressure with a know mechanical gauge first. Don't worry about anything else at this point, lets get some reliable data.






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