61 replies to this topic

[postve]

i may have missed something here, but to me it looks like you had the plunger in the block, then the ball bearing in the plunger being pushed by the spring!

surely that would lead to sky high pressure... just remove the ball from the equasion?

Hey Honda,

What I was showing with the ball/spring is the updated or new setup I am planning to go with. The original was OEM, spring/shuttle combination. I suspect that the deep grove in the original shuttle indicates metal fragment got wedged in there and dug a groove and eventually caused relief valve to get stuck

[postve]

Spider, as you can see from the picture looks like a piece of metal debris basically dug a deep groove in the shuttle (I hope that picture came through) which I suspect caused it to get stuck, hence the high oil pressure build- thoughts and here’s another picture

https://imgur.com/a/7FDzkst

[Spider]

Spider, as you can see from the picture looks like a piece of metal debris basically dug a deep groove in the shuttle (I hope that picture came through) which I suspect caused it to get stuck, hence the high oil pressure build- thoughts and here’s another picture

https://imgur.com/a/7FDzkst

 

I did see that before, thanks.

First things first !  Get a known gauge on there  !!!

While it's clear there has been something in there on the OPRV it may or may not have been jamming presently. Given the high pressures the pump can make, it will have still moved it off it's seat and in doing so, dropping the pressure in the Main Gallery, though, at lower speeds and when stationary, with the valve then moved out and if jammed, it would have remained un-seated and so you's see the issue the other way around to what you are seeing now.

Also, if it was that jammed up to make that kind of pressure, you would not have been able to remove the Valve, you would have needed at least an internal expanding tool or more likely, machine it out. At 120 PSI, there's around 36 pounds force on the Shuttle Valve, or put another way here, there would have been in excess of 36 pounds force jamming the Shuttle in place. I doubt you'd pull that out with your pinky and you'd struggle with most hand tools.

[postve]

It was slightly jammed in there when I first removed spring and had to use a tool to remove, came out easily though here was the picture

https://imgur.com/a/nKMu1Bp

[postve]

Spider, as I wait for my new shuttle and spring to arrive I am going to put the original back in as I suspect it might work now that I have it unstuck. On the other hand the visible crack in the shuttle will likely cause it to jam again as the metal has now expanded and the micro diameter is clearly off - thoughts as speculation on my end

[Spider]

Have you tied a mechanical gauge on it yet ?

 

If it's a crack, don't re-use it, but if it's a deep gouge, just clean that up and refit it.

 

It was slightly jammed in there when I first removed spring and had to use a tool to remove, came out easily though here was the picture

 

If it is cracked, the oil pressure will tend to make the valve smaller, not bigger and so it would be less likely to jam. From your description here, while it may have been 'stuck' it wasn't jammed to the point of not moving even with 120 PSI+ pushing on it. It was most likely the gouge that it was stuck on.
 

[postve]

Not home until tomorrow but I recall I need something for the OEM oil pressure - looking for a diagram as last time took it out and tossed in drawer - I am on board with looking at a different gauge as kinda makes sense what you are saying

Edited by postve, 30 June 2025 - 06:54 PM.

[nicklouse]

Just get a gauge from a hardware store with the correct thread and screw it in directly to the block.

 

a very useful addition to a tool box.

[postve]

Thx Nick, forgot to respond, your way is cheap, quick and effective, doing exactly that tomorrow as my OEM is buggered!

[Ethel]

If I remember, the block is 1/8 nptf but the, factory gauge was 1/8 bsp, hence the adapter. That could work in your favour, from your location.

[postve]

Thx Ethel and I should be able to scree the "smith" oil pressure gauge right in the same I assume once I get the adapter

[postve]

Spider, Ethel, Nick, u folks were bang on, the gauges are useless see my pressure on turn over now - and that’s with the ball bearing as still waiting for the new OEM - would you operate at 75 or look for lower once she warms up and starts rolling around

https://imgur.com/a/A3HGb2i

[Ethel]

75 is very healthy, but more than  you need really.

 

I'd run it in first then see where it gets to after driving it as enthusiastically as you'd want to. There are  adjustable knobs to replace the cap that hold the spring in. They have a bit of a reputation for leaking, but it'd be an easy way to zone in on what you want.

 

Thought I'd chuck in, as you likely have more pressure than you'll want it would also be pretty easy to add packing washers under the spring cap to reduce the pressure - just don't try adding 'em with it running 

[postve]

Thank you Ethel

[postve]

Ethel, I also read that some just cut another “rung” on the spring to get the PSI where they want it