64 replies to this topic

[DClarke1954]

Almost a year ago I was excited to have won a Mini in one of the UK-Mini's online raffles.

This one..

 

Now at the time I considered it a real "win" and I was really chuffed to pieces.

Fast forward to today and well... I am still thrilled with it but it has given me some issues.  These have all been dealt with along the way and it is still my little "fun-car".
 

Just recently however it has become clear that (and to use the words of our good friend AC Dodd) "All the fun's been had out of this engine".

She's now blowing smoke and turning spark plugs black & oily at an alarming rate.

So it has been "engine out" and a gradual dismantling and I am now at the stage where I have only the cam and the pistons & crank to remove and the block will just be an empty shell ready for a rebore.

 

A friend said to me that a new 1293 "short engine" could be had from Minispares for only £2,300 or so and was that cheaper and with more of a guarantee/warranty than paying an engineering firm to rebore and then refitting all the required new and old parts myself and having no warranty whatsoever?

Now I don't know to be honest.  There is an appeal to an "instant fix" that just costs money.  But I have really enjoyed (not sure that's the right word) taking this thing apart and getting to see the full horror of the glassy bores in this engine (see below where a flake of paint is beautifully reflected by the mirror-like wall of the cylinder bore).

 

I felt like singing "aint no honing in this block" to the tune of Bill Withers' "Aint no sunshine". 

So the engine has the original pistons in it and has never been rebored etc. etc.

As I have pulled the thing apart I have noticed that the pushrods are developing "nipples" where they contact the cam followers; so that's new followers and pushrods needed as well as pistons and rings and. and , and etc. etc.

While the block is being rebored and re-pistoned the head might as well be fully refurbished with new valves and guides and stem-seals, oh and new valve seats for unleaded so I don't have to keep using Castrol Valvemaster.   It is all mounting up and I am definitely a "bride on a budget" here.

 

I have had someone give me a ballpark of a full refurbishment for 2 to 2 and half grand, but my common sense says that's me paying people money to do both the stuff I can't do (rebore, reseat etc.) and the stuff I can do (physical labour and getting my hands dirty).  So my inclination  is to just have the precision engineering "done" and do all the rest myself.

 

Having never done any of this before anyway, what sort of cost (down here in deepest darkest Essex.... being down south makes a big difference I think) am I likely to incur for a rebore to the next size up (after measurement), a check and regrind re-bearing of mains and the bottom ends and a new set of cam bearings and fully reworked standard head?

I don't mind the engineering shop supplying and fitting new pistons and making a turn on those items.

 

Any clues as to ball-park prices guys?  I am in the dark here.  Is this piecemeal approach economically viable or is a complete "short-engine" a better bet?


 

 

 

 

[panky]

I've just rebuilt my Morris Minor engine, also 'A' series, which was starting to smoke a bit. On inspection everything was standard size just the bores looking glazed and the oil control rings a bit gummed up. I honed the bores and fitted new rings, mains and big end bearings, it didn't need any machining, so for the price of those parts and a gasket set the engine runs great with no smoke (and a little fruity with the extra cost of an MG Metro cam I fitted  )

So the moral is get everything measured before you commit to the machining and you might be pleasantly surprised.

[DClarke1954]

I've just rebuilt my Morris Minor engine, also 'A' series, which was starting to smoke a bit. On inspection everything was standard size just the bores looking glazed and the oil control rings a bit gummed up. I honed the bores and fitted new rings, mains and big end bearings, it didn't need any machining, so for the price of those parts and a gasket set the engine runs great with no smoke (and a little fruity with the extra cost of an MG Metro cam I fitted  )

So the moral is get everything measured before you commit to the machining and you might be pleasantly surprised.

 

Good idea, but how to get it measured? ;)

[superted87]

have a little look at this , and go from there. 

[DClarke1954]

have a little look at this , and go from there. 

 

Yeah I get it, but that's 2 tools I don't have.  A Micrometer and dial-bore gauge.  LOL   Ker-Ching!

[mab01uk]

If you can, find a known and recommended 'Mini Engine Specialist within a reasonable driving distance of where you are based, (ask for suggestions on TMF) then try to arrange a convenient time for you to visit so they can check over and measure your engine components and give you a 'best case' and/or 'worst case' quote for the work necessary. You can then decide whether to leave it with them for the work needed or go with your alternative Minispares short engine solution for £2300 including their guarantee/warranty.

 

As a start here is a Mini Engine Specialist who is based in the South East and who is also a Mini Forum member. Also remember all the good engine specialists tend to be very busy so it can be some time before your project gets to the top of the waiting list!

 

Osborne Automotive Preparation - OAP - Race Engines:-

https://www.facebook...p/?locale=en_GB

Edited by mab01uk, 16 December 2025 - 06:57 PM.

[Shooter63]

This is a fairly recent bill I had, it will give you a decent idea of what to expect, note pistons not included, if you give the machine shop the parts ie block, crank, pistons, rods etc and tell them to do the necessary they will do the measurements for you, the same with the head. They will tell you if you need a bore or just a hone. The machine shop will be able to supply all parts required I suggest Gosnays along the A12 Romford end . 

 

Shooter

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[lsto]

Depending where in Essex you are there is little legends on canvey. I don't know if Jay builds engines but I have bought loads of stuff from him over the years and he has always been fair. May be worth a phone call, if he doesn't do engine builds he may be able to put you in touch with someone who does.

[DClarke1954]

This is a fairly recent bill I had, it will give you a decent idea of what to expect, note pistons not included, if you give the machine shop the parts ie block, crank, pistons, rods etc and tell them to do the necessary they will do the measurements for you, the same with the head. They will tell you if you need a bore or just a hone. The machine shop will be able to supply all parts required I suggest Gosnays along the A12 Romford end . 

 

Shooter

Thanks Shooter, I will give them a call/go see them.  Much obliged. 

[DClarke1954]

If you can, find a known and recommended 'Mini Engine Specialist within a reasonable driving distance of where you are based, (ask for suggestions on TMF) then try to arrange a convenient time for you to visit so they can check over and measure your engine components and give you a 'best case' and/or 'worst case' quote for the work necessary. You can then decide whether to leave it with them for the work needed or go with your alternative Minispares short engine solution for £2300 including their guarantee/warranty.

 

As a start here is a Mini Engine Specialist who is based in the South East and who is also a Mini Forum member. Also remember all the good engine specialists tend to be very busy so it can be some time before your project gets to the top of the waiting list!

 

Osborne Automotive Preparation - OAP - Race Engines:-

https://www.facebook...p/?locale=en_GB

Thanks for the advice/steer.  Much appreciated. 

[timmy850]

There’s nothing more expensive than a free mini (speaking from experience)!

As you take more parts off you’ll likely find more parts to add to your list. Some parts will be worn out and some are just worth changing while it’s out and everything else is new

Some examples are below (and some are already included in the Minispares short block):
Camshaft and followers
Oil pump
Timing gears and chain & tensioner
Gasket kits
Clutch and flywheel

And keep in mind that no engine shop will warranty a mini engine unless you’ve completely disassembled the gearbox and cleaned and rebuilt it at the same time

You also need to make sure the carb is in a good functioning condition so you can control the fuelling and the distributor curve matches the new engine spec

[JXC Mini GT]

I had a Minispares 1293cc short engine installed by Mill Road Garage about 4 years ago, and have nothing but praise for the works and the way the engine performs, I have covered about 15,000 miles since installation and the engine hasn't missed a beat, the recon gearbox fitted at the same time caused some problems (see page 36 on my rebuild ) all of which were fixed with the added bonus of Bill Richards setting the engine up

[Shooter63]

I've seen the pictures that you posted on FB the whole bottom end doesn't look too bad at all, ie bearings and crank seem to be in good condition,  you could well get away with a hone, new rings, new bearings, oil pump, followers etc, as I said take it to Gosnays for them to measure.

 

Shooter

[coopertaz]

you can tell how much bore wear you have by whether there is a lip at the top of the bore or not. also with the short engine you will still have any head work ontop of this. i have run a minispares 1380 short engine from them and was impressed with it. but from a budget point of view would do manual bits you can, ability depending, and get machining work done at shop. Have only ever had to renew cam bearings once. but new followers and push rods would be my choice

[DClarke1954]

Thank you everyone, your help is much appreciated.
I think I will go for the lightest rebore the engine needs  (probably +20) and new pistons to suit.

Yes, I would definitely want the head reworked with all new valves, guides  and seals.

I'm knocking on a bit and not as agile or as strong a I would like so doing this whole exercise just the once is my goal.

Silly question from me maybe but why are some pushrods priced at c.£38 for 8 and others are £135 for 8.  Same goes for cam followers.

Is it purely a quality of product issue?

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Dan.