64 replies to this topic

[ACDodd]

What's wrong with your old pushrods? Only change if bent.

They are well made from the factory, the tips if worn with the usual nipple on the end are simply 'de nippled' using a simple grinding operation.

Ac

[coopertaz]

wasn't aware end could be re-dressed, good to know

[DClarke1954]

What's wrong with your old pushrods? Only change if bent.

They are well made from the factory, the tips if worn with the usual nipple on the end are simply 'de nippled' using a simple grinding operation.

Ac

That's good to know Adrian.   I have seen it written elsewhere that they are on their way out once the nipples form.
These are not bent, just each of them is exhibiting a protrusion in the centre of the mushroom end.
I will dress them with a diamond grit sharpening plate.

Thanks!

[DeadSquare]

On hill climb, grass track or even some race engines, I used to grind as much as I could, off the bottom of the pushrods, to help compensate for shaving the cylinder head.

[alex-95]

I'm Building an engine at the minute, the cost soon adds up and I'm doing as much as I can, It was £420 for rebore + hone, skim the face of the block, Grind the big ends and polish the main bearing journals on the crank. Then £180 for Balancing the Flywheel, crank and conrods (can just have the flywheel done). The Primary gear may require new bushes and boring to suit your crank diameter (not sure how much that costs as I done this myself). Added costs if you're planning to do as much as possible and if you haven't already got the equipment is a Micrometer, DTI and magnetic stand, feeler gauges.

[madalicesdad]

What's wrong with your old pushrods? Only change if bent.

They are well made from the factory, the tips if worn with the usual nipple on the end are simply 'de nippled' using a simple grinding operation.

Ac

[madalicesdad]

Are the ends hardened? If so, is there a limit how much can be ground off?

[ACDodd]

Yes the ends are flame hardened for about 1 inch in length. This de nippling does not even make a dent in the hardened depth!

Ac

[madalicesdad]

1 inch should be enough! Thanks for the info

[DClarke1954]

I have been having a "fun" time cleaning up the head and the block and both are more or less back to bare metal.

So it is off to the machine shop tomorrow to start the rebore and the refurb of the head.

As I have never done any of this before I am unsure of my expectations or what is normal "business as usual" for a UK machine shop.

 

My "wants" are:

1. Cylinder Head – full renovation.
   1. Crack test (no issues known).
   2. Remove old valve-guides and fit new ones (ream as required).
   3. If valve seats not hardened, fit hardened seats.
   4. Supply & fit new valves & valve-stem oil seals.
   5. Lap all valves for good seal.
   6. Final clean and assemble.

 

1. Cylinder block & crankshaft.
   1. Hot tank washout of block (if available).
   2. Measure up to determine rebore requirements (expected +20 as engine still on original pistons, but may be worse, please advise).
   3. Rebore & hone cylinders.
   4. Supply & fit new good quality pistons to rods please call to confer on the options available.
   5. Check all crank bearings, regrind and reline as required.
   6. Remove existing CAM bearings, fit new CAM bearings.

As a novice I have no idea if this is the normal bill of fare for an auto engineering shop or if they are going to snigger at my lack of knowledge of "who does what".

 

Any advice/guidance available folks?

[Shooter63]

All machine shops will do the lot, if you are taking the engjne to Gosnays,  then they have/had a tank.

 

Shooter

[Ethel]

You could do finishing jobs, like grinding the valves in yourself. I'd consider having  some basic flowing done as it's about the most cost effective improvement you can do an A Series. Triple angle seats etc. It could pay for itself in better fuel economy... if you can lay off the loud pedal.

[DClarke1954]

Latest News.

Spoke with the machine shop (Gosnay's) this week, it's all going OK except... my valves are "bent".

I asked them to supply new ones and carry on.

Maybe next week I will get a call to collect my "bits".    
I don't remember now how it came apart let-alone how to put it back together, but that is what this place and YouTube is for isn't it?
Never built an engine before so this is going to be interesting.

Paint the block & the head first I think after all that acid-bathing.
Happy Days and Spring/Summer motoring are coming soon!

[nicklouse]

I would be concerned with how they got bent as that needs rectifying as well. Also the pistons will need looking at. Possible damage to them and the ring gaps.

[DClarke1954]

The gearbox was reunited with the engine yesterday.  So a bit of a milestone moment for me.
Sadly, the rather expensive (but excellent) RTV gasket sealant took a nosedive off the overcrowded bench and smashed the dispensing trigger/nozzle etc.

Awaiting a replacement so I can get the transfer housing/and the rest of it back on.

 

So it has been a bit expensive, >£2,750 so far.

Engine rebore, completely rebuilt head with unleaded valve seats and all new valves.  New EVO1 Cam, lightened timing gears & chain,  New X-pin Diff, new lighter flywheel & clutch etc.
I just hope I haven't made any serious mistakes in the rebuild.