637 replies to this topic

[lvm18]

Hi Dan,

Looks like theres not going to be much left of that shell at this rate!

Are you going for a steel box, or a GRP/Carbon one? Its really easy to make one out of resin impregnated card in any shape you want. Thats how I made the moulds for the 2 pulley bulges on my Midas bonnet.

Keep up the good work and keep those pictures flowing !

David

[danwebster]

Hi David,

I was planning on making the box either from thin sheet steel or possible alloy riveted to a narrow box section frame, i'm not 100% sure yet.

Although all of the structural stiffness is incorporated into my cage (or will be by the time I am finished) there are other things I hadn't considered such as the filmsyness of the scuttle, which needs a modicum of support.

I'll get a better idea once I have cut all of the bulkhead away.

If you have time why not start up a little thread about your project, I for one would be very interested and i'm sure others would be too!

Cheers,
Dan

[PhoenixSimon]

man alive there is some trick bits and a lot of brain power going into this wee beastie!!
Simon

[lvm18]

Hi Dan,

Yes your right, there is probably a lot of structural rigidity in that area. At a guess I would imagine seam welding a tin box would be the best way to maintain (and maybe improve) in that area. A box having more corners means more strength.
When I made the new GRP bonnet with the power bulge on it for the webers and pulleys the extra curves certainly stiffened it up a lot.

I had thought about putting a thread up, although I was wondering if my car being a Midas Gold with a long cam KAD head might not be to everyones cup of tea on a Mini Forum.

Kind regards,

David

[danwebster]

I'm sure theres a few on here with midas' or similar....it would generate a lot of interest i'm sure!

I'm aiming to take my car to another level in terms of front engined mini's, hence the (limited) brain power and effort going in....it better be worth it

[danwebster]

Postie has just delivered almost 6 metres of CDS...fingers crossed the weather holds out this weekend so i can get busy with the grinder and welder!!

[lvm18]

Hi Dan.

Thats good news for you!

I got my block back today. I checked my notes and I didnt realise that the stud holes need deepening to 28mm to accept the head bolts. I've just drilled them out ready for extending the threads with a plug tap (didnt know they existed until today) but they have just slightly broken into the water jacket. Did you use anything to seal the threads up to stop water seeping up the bolts (like threadlock)....or did you leave yours as they are.....or did you not break through?

Cheers,

David

[danwebster]

I shortened the bolts by a couple of threads and they were fine

Cheers,
Dan

[lvm18]

OK....I guess I'm going to have to coat my bolts with some silicone then to make sure I get a water seal.

I should get all the bits together by middle of next week and I am looking forwards to finishing the build off.... like doing those shims I keep putting off!

[danwebster]

Mmmm thats got to be the worst job of the lot!

[lvm18]

The worst job is the waiting for bits to come! Like having to order and wait for a couple of UNC taps...to do the head bolts which are getting harder to find off the shelf in my area. Oh well, at least the 5/16'' UNC tap will come in hand for cleaning the gearbox/clutch housing threads.

I spoke to KAD yesterday about the pinion bearing support housing and I see you have one. They said that the pinion shaft needs welding up then machining back to 17mm to take the bearing inner race. Did you get this done yourself, or did you get KAD to do it?

[danwebster]

On the old Jack Knight dog box I had a local machine shop grind the end of the shaft down, then make a sleeve to go over the shaft with the correct OD for the bearing race.

With the new swifty box i've got it just happened to be the correct size, I guess as they are close to each other there must be some communication between them in that regard.

One point to note, when fitting the support housing, take the locating lugs out of the gearbox case itself, and let the housing find its own way home. That way the bearing race should be running perfectly central.

I destroyed the first bearing in mine as the lugs in the case didn't correspond perfectly to the bearing centre. Wasn't the end of the world, just needed a new bearing but it could have been disastrous.

Cheers,
Dan

[lvm18]

...A sleeve sounds like a better idea than welding up. If I go down that route (at a later date) I might just do that too.

I know what you mean about taking the lugs off to self locate. I did wonder how that bearing goes on with the loads. I would have thought that the bearing locators would have had to be line bored from clutch case through to end cover to make sure they were bang on. I suppose making it self locate helps in that process.

[danwebster]

Yep I think its an acceptable way to install it, in fact I think it was KAD that advised me to do it that way from memory.

Either way the bearing has come out as good as gold this time round, so its gone straight back in!

[lvm18]

Thats good to know!

It is something I am considering for later on as I understand the principle of it. I take it the main bearing was holding well together with that fix. They seem to break quite a lot.

I priced up a pair of L14 cams. £275 each plus the popes telephone number made my eyes water. I think I might be on the hunt for a pair of good s/h long cam ones if you know of any.