150 replies to this topic

[Sam Walters]

just the point in haveing a vary lairy cam doesnt make sence to me. the cam has more influence then the stroke i recon. so its kinda touch trying to balance out the torque range. might aswell have it furthur up, but a 998 crank in a 1275 block isent too excesive and is entirely do able.

Edited by flyingears2002, 22 August 2007 - 07:26 PM.

[Dog]

998 crank won't fit!
I am not trying to tell you how to do you project, but the 998 crank's jounals are in completely the wrong places to allow large bore fitment.

The only way to get a 998 stroke, is by getting a 1275 crank reprofiled... or better yet, go billet only problem then is sorcing Cooper S rods, and paying the extra few hundred for pistons....

[Sam Walters]

yer, i phrased that wrongly lol, i meant a 998 profile, like the one i linked, they do a blank one so i could take that down to say robwalker engineering and have it done there.

[Dog]

why not stay small bore due to insureance.. get a 1098 crank, and shove that in the 998, long stroke, means more torque

Edited by Ðogmatix, 22 August 2007 - 07:52 PM.

[Sam Walters]

i wasent planning on doing this engine till i was 18 and it would probably take me a year anyhow lol

[Dog]

Fair enough
Why not go on the hunt for a 1071? it'll be cheaper than getting a crank done, and then finding pistons and rods

[Sam Walters]

1160 turbo would be intresting

[supermotolee]

1380 turbo would be more interesting lol no replacment for displacment theres a guy on turbo minis with a 1380 turbo been clocked at 142mph and is probably over the 200bhp mark with 5 port head

[Sam Walters]

scarey stuff that yellow mini is, that could be a way to go, would be cheaper, however everyone seems to do 1293/1380 turbos currently, however ive never seen a 1159 turbo, i know itll be alot more to do it.

[Matt]

theres a reason why you havent seen a 1159 turbo...

[Sam Walters]

cus everyone is boreing!

[Sam Walters]

right, battle plans.

• buy rear beam axel and shocks, sprigs ect. £260
• buy flip front + bonnet + brace bars £173
• buy arches £160
• minifins £60
• force racing wheels. £480
• tyres £100
• fit disk brakes and servo +brake lines
• buy interior (except seats) £250
• cut off rear panel , get new parcel shelf (nabbing one from another car)
• fit new rear panel and parcel shelf and fit rear valance
• buy and fit offside sill £20
• sand down and repaint rear cage
• flatten back all paint and primer
• send to be sprayed
• rear lights (crystal lens type) £50
• buy rear boot skin £50
• buy all catches for front and boot £50

lots more then that and obviolsy wont be done in that order, need poly carb windows and all sorts also.

i recon before i touch my engine its going to be about 3500 pounds before im finished.

Edited by flyingears2002, 31 August 2007 - 05:22 PM.

[Sam Walters]

on a more happy note.



needs the boot floor repairing both sides, ive got those, and a new rear valance and closeing panels. i have them also.



need to setup a seperate circuit for the spot welder to run on now

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Edited by flyingears2002, 31 August 2007 - 05:23 PM.

[Matt]

hehe thats smart

[miniboo]

add a bit of bracing to the rear and you could turn it into a sort of hatch back well hatch arse really lol