Winston 1275- 1340cc
Started by
TimS
, Jan 19 2005 12:34 AM
53 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 31 January 2005 - 06:15 PM
Looking good
#17
Posted 31 January 2005 - 06:26 PM
ooh look at my sexy hand!!! lol
cant wait for the rollers!!! we'll see how much you beat me by lol
cant wait for the rollers!!! we'll see how much you beat me by lol
#18
Posted 17 March 2005 - 05:01 PM
ok the time has come again for the [project to get moving on... its nearly easter and will b time for the mini engine to get on its way again.
Since i was building it last time iv ordered:
hardened diff pin
countersunk screws for the duplex gears
geabox gaskets
core plug
LCB manifold
Exhaust wrap
New piston rings
iv also just sent off an order for:
EBC green stuff pads
Tie rod bushes
Cam thrust triangle
and 2 ball joint kits while all the front suspension is apart
Iv also started with the front suspension. I am putting on my rise jointed bottom arms and seeting it up with 1.5 degrees neg. camber to start with as well as changing the front tie rod bushes and usuing a starting place of 3 degrees of caster.
I have some new caliper bolts and will be taking off the calipers, cleaning them up and putting the new EBC pads in as i was getting brake fade while driving the car b4. The discs are pritty new so will just need beeding the pads into them. :grin:
Once all of that is put together, hopfully by the end of next week then i shall be seeting to wrapping the manifold, installing it and finishing the engine.
Has anyone ever changed a diff pin before? i was looking for some tips but cant find any so i might have to just go by the Haynes.
Since i was building it last time iv ordered:
hardened diff pin
countersunk screws for the duplex gears
geabox gaskets
core plug
LCB manifold
Exhaust wrap
New piston rings
iv also just sent off an order for:
EBC green stuff pads
Tie rod bushes
Cam thrust triangle
and 2 ball joint kits while all the front suspension is apart
Iv also started with the front suspension. I am putting on my rise jointed bottom arms and seeting it up with 1.5 degrees neg. camber to start with as well as changing the front tie rod bushes and usuing a starting place of 3 degrees of caster.
I have some new caliper bolts and will be taking off the calipers, cleaning them up and putting the new EBC pads in as i was getting brake fade while driving the car b4. The discs are pritty new so will just need beeding the pads into them. :grin:
Once all of that is put together, hopfully by the end of next week then i shall be seeting to wrapping the manifold, installing it and finishing the engine.
Has anyone ever changed a diff pin before? i was looking for some tips but cant find any so i might have to just go by the Haynes.
Attached Files
#19
Posted 17 March 2005 - 05:02 PM
sorry about the poor quality of the pics, they are taen on my phone
Attached Files
#20
Posted 17 March 2005 - 05:03 PM
old dead manifold
Attached Files
#21
Posted 17 March 2005 - 05:05 PM
gear box with central oil pick up pipe and soon to b hardened diff pin
Attached Files
#22
Posted 17 March 2005 - 05:06 PM
and rose jointed bottom arm!
Attached Files
#23
Posted 17 March 2005 - 06:36 PM
looking good mate, cant wait to drive it on the way to germany
didnt know it was possible to do that to an LCB?! must hve been giving it some!
didnt know it was possible to do that to an LCB?! must hve been giving it some!
#24
Posted 17 March 2005 - 06:40 PM
yeh, it because i ripped the ul;timate engine steady off the body and so cracked the monifold in the process! the new one has a gear :grin: box mount too!
#25
Posted 18 March 2005 - 02:45 AM
i managed to do the same thing to my Stainless steel LCB, £200 down the pan!!! grr
#26
Posted 18 March 2005 - 02:33 PM
All looks very good.
However, there is no such thing as a 1340 block. You have to de-stroke the crank amongst other bits of A series wizdary (that I don't have full understanding of) to achieve 1340 capacity.
Your bore alone, +40thou? will give you 1330.
myself and a few others are beginning to sound like broken records telling people this all the time, but it's why these engine kits seem so cheap compared to other other builders offer. It's because they pretend it's 1340 so when compared to a real 1340 with all the extra work it seems much cheaper.
But don't get me wrong, what yo have got for your money is great! But it's a 1330.
However, there is no such thing as a 1340 block. You have to de-stroke the crank amongst other bits of A series wizdary (that I don't have full understanding of) to achieve 1340 capacity.
Your bore alone, +40thou? will give you 1330.
myself and a few others are beginning to sound like broken records telling people this all the time, but it's why these engine kits seem so cheap compared to other other builders offer. It's because they pretend it's 1340 so when compared to a real 1340 with all the extra work it seems much cheaper.
But don't get me wrong, what yo have got for your money is great! But it's a 1330.
#27
Posted 18 March 2005 - 06:24 PM
yeh im aware of that, it was in the technical section how 1340cc was achived. this is also my first ever full engine build so is a big learning curve for me.
#28
Posted 18 March 2005 - 09:29 PM
Like I say, I'm no expert either.
#29
Posted 19 March 2005 - 07:00 PM
just wandering alburglar, how old r u? i really likie some of your projects! just wondering where you started playing with minis?
#30
Posted 19 March 2005 - 07:26 PM
He's 23
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