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1979 Mini Ebony With Sc Injection

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#1 fokko

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Posted 27 November 2019 - 09:53 PM

Hi,

 

I have been into Mini's since 1999 and I have owned 3 of them, until in the beginning of this year (Feb. 2019)... At that time I owned a 1983 1000 HLE which I have owned for almost 20 years and it was quite nice, but it had quite some bodywork issues (and an accident damage history), which I didn't want to attack. Here it is:

Attached File  hle.jpg   94.38K   2 downloads

 

I was in search of a better bodyshell with less work (to make it to showroom condition) and preferably 40 years old, or older. After a while I found a semi-barnfind. A Mini Ebony built in 1979 which hadn't been touched for more than a decade. It sat in a real barn under a pair of sheets. I made an appointment with the owner who was in a hurry to sell it, because the barn was going to be sold. The Ebony had some minor repairs to the bodywork, but was structurally sound and looked like a very good basis to build up a new Mini. This is it:

Attached File  ebony01.png   493.78K   2 downloads

 

I figured I could sell the standard running gear it came with and move all my fancy running gear from my HLE over to this one. After that I would sell the HLE, to have some funds to get the Ebony completely restored.

This is what happened since Feb 2019: I bought the Ebony and pulled out the running gear (engine, fuel tank etc) and interior, bought some stuff like a standard exhaust, new clutch, waterpump etc. I built up the HLE with this stuff and I bought some additional wheels (Exactons with Yokohama A008 tyres). Put the Exactons with the Falken tyres I had on the HLE and put my GB 10x6's and Yokohama tyres aside for the Ebony. Mid-October I sold the HLE to a happy new owner with a new MOT.

Attached File  hlesale.jpg   86.58K   4 downloads

 

Finally it was time to make a start with the Ebony. The specs are/will be as follows (still subject to change;)):

  • Color will probably be a RAL color called Dove Blue (saw this Mini Miglia of Mr. Porter and liked it a lot), still doubting about a different roof color, black or white
    Attached File  portermiglia.jpg   128.14K   3 downloads
  • GB 10x6's with Yokohama A008 tyres
  • MPI interior, probably re-upholstered
  • Newton Commercial new carpet set
  • Burr-walnut 6 clock dash (including oil pressure, oil temp and volts or clock)
  • My current MED 1330 A+ engine
  • CalverST CST2001 cylinder head
  • CalverST 1.4:1 rockers
  • CalverST RE13OT camshaft
  • Specialist Components 5-port EFI kit
    Attached File  sckit.jpg   43.01K   7 downloads
  • Maniflow medium bore LCB
  • Single box side exit Maniflow carbontec silencer (had this for ages, is pretty rare now and sounds awesome!)
  • Standard A+ gearbox
  • Fully adjustable suspension
    • Adjustable bottom arms
    • Adjustable tie-rods
    • Genuine hi-lo's
    • Adjustable rear camber/toe brackets
  • New rubber suspension cones
  • All new subframe/suspension rubbers
  • MPI Injection tank with new pump/filter
  • (Brackets for) rear seatbelts, so I can take my kids around as well
  • Lots more, but the list is getting too long

The "shed" I'm working in is the garage attached to our house. It is heated and isolated, so it's a great place to work, even during winter time. I have 8 led bars attached to the ceiling which give a huge amount of light. This picture was taken a while ago, it's a bit more organized now...;

 

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I will try to post frequently on updates, but I also have a daughter of 2 years old and the second one is on the way... So I need to find time...

 



#2 fokko

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Posted 01 December 2019 - 02:07 PM

OK, so a new update on what happened the past month or so. First I would like to mention that I'm planning to do a "dry-build" first, to make sure everything works. Then I'll take it apart again and will have it prepared and painted. That will also be the time I'll refurbish all parts. Chassis parts will be black mostly and I'll be buying a zinc plating kit to treat all bolts and nuts. I already have a media blast cabinet and a parts washer to be able to prepare the parts.

 

This is my current engine; a MED prepared 1330cc A+:

 

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I had to remove the current head (MG Metro, leaded), to do some measurements. After I removed the head, I inspected it and found out some of the valves were quite recessed in their seat, even though I have been using lead substitute;

 

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Also, after removal of some of the valves, I discovered a crack (which they seem to be able to fix when putting in hardened seats) between inlet and exhaust valve.

 

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As I'm buying a new (modified) cylinderhead, I needed to know the current piston-to-deck height, so the chamber size could be matched. It appeared the piston currently is 0.51mm below deck, which is too much. I decided having the block machined down to 0.25mm piston-to-deck height so there is still room, if there is a need at some point. In the picture I marked the space with a red line;

 

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One of the shiny new bits I wanted to try and fit was the ignition blanking plate, too bad it didn't fit out of the box. But I made a good arrangement with the manufacturer...

 

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After an exchange head was sent to the supplier of the new head, I started with the dismantling of the standard suspension, which went pretty well;

 

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When taking out the upper suspension arm, I discovered the pin was badly worn, probably due to insufficient grease somewhere in the past. Luckily I have a replacement in stock :);

 

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I mounted my adjustable bottom arm with offset rubbers and an adjustable tie-rod with rubber/polyflex combo bushes. I had a set of Boge shock absorbers, so I put those on for the time being. Not sure if these are ideal in my situation. I also installed a new rebound buffer and bump stop;

 

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I also put the new suspension cone in place (somewhat), including the Hi-lo. Then it was time to take a look at the steering rack. It looks like the arm is somewhat worn. With a bit of encouragement, they will fall down. I need to take a look if I can still adjust this one or if I need to fit a new steering rack. I happen to have one lying around;

 

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Next time, some more pictures on the upper suspension arm rebuild and hopefully some progress on the steering rack.



#3 fokko

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Posted 05 December 2019 - 09:21 PM

I figured I was going to replace the steering rack anyway, so I pulled out the steering column (sheer bolt didn't break off! :thumbsup:).

 

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The u-bolt nuts came off pretty easily;

 

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Put the jack stands on a terrible position in order to be able to lower the subframe to be able to remove the steering rack.

 

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Then I received a very cool package...

 

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Containing the new 1.4:1 solid steel rocker arms, steel posts and thick wall rocker shaft;

 

Attached File  20191204_175253008_iOS.jpg   77.78K   1 downloads

 

An RE13OT camshaft;

 

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And a modified head;

 

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With quite some port work done;

 

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And chambers of the right size;

 

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Put all of the nice new toys on the shelf and continued with the undercarriage. I bought a new tool to pull the CV joints and it works like a charm! Better than hammering the joints away from the shaft. The shafts that came with the Mini were the thicker ones which I can use with the disc brake CV joints;

 

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And the new joint getting in place;

 

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#4 fokko

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Posted 22 December 2019 - 05:01 PM

Small update again, did some more on the front suspension. Determined that it would be better to completely refurbish the parts that have bearings in them, like the top arm and the swivel hub. So I'm going to order some Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic and Electrox to treat them after removing rust using either Deox-C or my blast cabinet. Too bad I was too late for the top arm...

 

Painted the CV-joint and mounted the rubber gaiter;

 

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Top arm more or less complete;

 

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Mounted in the subframe;

 

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Side view;

 

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Then I needed to remove the steering arm and joints from the old hub to use them on the new one, but removing them seemed not very easy;

 

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Removed lower joint which is not in a reusable state;

 

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Top one is, this picture is after cleaning it in the parts washer;

 

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Steering arm before cleaning;

 

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After cleaning, but the bolts didn't come loose, so I had to remove the brake drum and backplate (not enough room for a socket);

 

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Took off drum & hub (hub was corroded to the bearing inner race);

 

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What remained;

 

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Backplate came off pretty easily;

 

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Then the bolts came loose;

 

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And then there was the steering arm;

 

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#5 fokko

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Posted 28 December 2019 - 10:53 PM

A short update. I figured I'd do some "maintenance" on my blast cabinet, as it contained a lot of dust of previous blast sessions;

 

Attached File  20191228_193508658_iOS.jpg   49.29K   2 downloads

 

So I removed the old blast media;

 

Attached File  20191228_194444046_iOS.jpg   61.87K   4 downloads

 

And added some new;

 

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After that I started on the right-hand steering arm. Before;

 

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After;

 

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And the right-hand hub, before;

 

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Prepped the steering arm surface before;

 

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After;

 

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Started taping off the flattened parts;

 

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Attached File  20191228_205113987_iOS.jpg   70.25K   1 downloads

 

Then I needed to block the bearing surfaces from being attacked by blast media. I had some Brake Cleaner bottles lying around. Apparently the caps of those bottles snugly fit the bearing area. So I cut some height off of them and put them in place;

 

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Halfway;

 

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Finished;

 

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I currently have an Air Compressor which is pretty loud (115 dB) and only has a 24 litre tank. It's the type of compressor you would buy at the DIY store. It is not made for this kind of use; it doesn't deliver enough air to continuously blast. After about 10 seconds of blasting, it already needs to run to add additional pressure. I'm now considering buying a new one with a 70 litre tank and an engine that delivers 250-300 lt/minute at a low noise level (about 53-60 dB)...



#6 Daz1968

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Posted 29 December 2019 - 01:37 PM

For info I have a similar cabinet and use a 3hp Clarke belt driven compressor with 100 litre tank, it just about keeps up with smallest nozzle, 



#7 fokko

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Posted 30 December 2019 - 09:11 AM

For info I have a similar cabinet and use a 3hp Clarke belt driven compressor with 100 litre tank, it just about keeps up with smallest nozzle, 

 

Thanks! I can see that my blast cabinet uses 250 litre per minute at 6 bar. Apparently the max working pressure is between 2.5 and 5.5 bar. I use it at max compressor pressure, which starts at 10 bar  :errr: , so maybe I should turn down the pressure... Your compressor seems to do 14 CFM max (396 litres per minute) which is the gross volume. The one I'm looking at does 375 litres gross volume, and 260 litres net volume. It means that the compressor will run pretty frequently and indeed, can just keep up with the usage. But I don't care as long as it doesn't make the huge amount of noise my current compressor makes :lol: .



#8 Daz1968

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Posted 30 December 2019 - 09:59 AM

As long as it’s belt drive rather than direct it will be quieter, hydrovane is best but expensive, I couldn’t warrant the expense for how much it’s used



#9 fokko

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Posted 30 December 2019 - 02:44 PM

As long as it’s belt drive rather than direct it will be quieter, hydrovane is best but expensive, I couldn’t warrant the expense for how much it’s used

 

I'm actually looking at a membrane-driven compressor, they seem to be very quiet. You can find it here: https://www.hbm-mach...oise-compressor

 (site is in Dutch, but I guess you'll understand the specs anyway).



#10 ajperry

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Posted 01 January 2020 - 09:43 AM

You’re inspiring me to get my own compressor and blast cabinet!
Like the plans, will keep watching.
Happy New Year!
Alex

#11 no66

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Posted 01 January 2020 - 10:18 AM

Following this, good job! 



#12 fokko

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Posted 04 January 2020 - 03:03 PM

You’re inspiring me to get my own compressor and blast cabinet!
Like the plans, will keep watching.
Happy New Year!
Alex

 

Thanks Alex! I'm happy to hear my post inspires others 👍. Happy new year to you too!

 

Following this, good job! 

 

Thanks no66!

 

----------------------------------------------------------

 

Another small update, didn't put much time in it... I'm waiting for some Bilthamber stuff (Electrox and Epoxy Mastic), but in the meanwhile I figured I could put the stuff I blasted in a bath of Deox-C to remove the last bits of rust.

 

Before;

 

Attached File  20200102_204911812_iOS.jpg   165.57K   1 downloads

 

Detail (the bolts were the best I had);

 

Attached File  20200102_204918277_iOS.jpg   119.46K   0 downloads

 

The stuff I used;

 

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Put it into the bath;

 

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About 24hrs later;

 

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As you can see, the hub was not fully submerged;

 

Attached File  20200104_141734332_iOS.jpg   51.42K   1 downloads

 

I brushed the parts to remove rust particles and put them back in for another soak;

 

Attached File  20200104_143304717_iOS.jpg   53.78K   2 downloads

 

The bath always leaves a dark grey finish which can be partly brushed off, but not completely. Apparently this is enough preparation for the first coat of Electrox. Hopefully the new stuff arrives this week...



#13 carlosgt

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Posted 09 January 2020 - 03:18 PM

Following this build! good luck on your project  :D



#14 fokko

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Posted 09 January 2020 - 07:45 PM



Following this build! good luck on your project  :D

 

Thanks, much appreciated!

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Another small update. Expecting the Bilt Hamber stuff (Electrox and Epoxy Mastic in the upcoming weeks, as the latter is out of stock and planned for production). In the meanwhile I figured I'd take a look at the brake master cylinder. The old one is not in a usable state anymore, so I have a new one which needs to be put in place. First I removed the clevis pin at the top of the pedal which was quite a hassle because of corrosion;

 

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After soaking the nuts and pipe fixings in WD40, I started dismantling the current setup, first the pipes connected to the master cylinder;

 

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Then at the limited valve side;

 

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Then I figured I had to remove the clutch master cylinder in order to easily reach for the rearward nut;

 

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After the master cylinder came out, it was obvious that something was missing (the retaining clip);

 

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The pin was still in the car;

 

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When it came out, it looked like something homemade :-O;

 

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New master cylinder;

 

Attached File  20200104_213859086_iOS.jpg   26.05K   1 downloads

 

When mounted, I discovered that the lower fixing was of the wrong size and actually the front/rear is swapped according to the Minispares website...;

 

Attached File  20200104_220131361_iOS.jpg   61.46K   1 downloads

 

So now I need to get some additional parts; I want the original preformed brake pipes for LHD with the correct size nuts and I need a new gasket for the master cylinders. Saturday I'll visit one of the biggest Mini shops here in NL, they have a lot of stock, so hopefully they have it in stock, fingers crossed...



#15 ClassicBRG

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Posted 11 January 2020 - 04:26 PM

Nice job, good to see another Dutch Mini over here!





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