56 replies to this topic

[ClassicBRG]

Nice job, good to see another Dutch Mini over here!

[no66]

Your 79 had origianlly had diagonal spit master and bulkhead block. 

If you want to keep this, you should have GMC167

Have a good think about how to plumb in a later 80-89 front / rear split to the bulkhead block. I should work though.

 

 

Edited by no66, 12 January 2020 - 09:40 AM.

[fokko]

Nice job, good to see another Dutch Mini over here!

 

Thanks!

 

Your 79 had origianlly had diagonal spit master and bulkhead block. 

If you want to keep this, you should have GMC167

Have a good think about how to plumb in a later 80-89 front / rear split to the bulkhead block. I should work though.

 

Thanks for the heads-up! But I understood that my Mini was built in Belgium and these Mini's already had the front-rear split circuit. Check below picture:

 

 20200113_065445067_iOS.jpg   91.84K   3 downloads

[fokko]

It has been a while since the last update. I have been sick and had to regain energy to start working on the Mini again... Today I finally found some time and energy... Also last week I finally received my parcel from Bilt Hamber containing a bottle of Electrox and some Epoxy Mastic, so I could finish off the front hub and steering arm;

 

 20200202_132600442_iOS.jpg   32.48K   3 downloads

 

After the Deox-C bath I used the Dremel to remove the last bit of junk from the hub and the steering arm and this is how they looked;

 

 20200202_140946208_iOS.jpg   47.94K   1 downloads

 

After the first layer of Electrox;

 

 20200202_142609518_iOS.jpg   57.22K   1 downloads

 

Then I started working on the steering rack. It had to come out to replace it, but I discovered I barely had enough space to take it out;

 

 20200202_150458969_iOS.jpg   21.3K   0 downloads

 

When lowering the subframe for the steering rack to come out, one of the rubbers broke. No problem, I was going to replace them anyway;

 

 20200202_150658565_iOS.jpg   54.77K   0 downloads

 

Old & new;

 

 20200202_151514369_iOS.jpg   53K   0 downloads

 

Cleaned the U-bolts (50/50);

 

 20200202_152915597_iOS.jpg   51.55K   1 downloads

 

New rack installed (u-bolts are not tightened yet, first need to fit the steering column);

 

 20200202_160249352_iOS.jpg   53.73K   3 downloads

 

Hope to have another update later this week...

[theclassicminishop]

Excellent work there.  Keep it up.

[fokko]

Ok, first I apologize for posting so late. It has been a strange time with the COVID-19 virus. Apart from that my girlfriend gave birth to our second daughter... Anyways, I still found time to do some work on the Mini. This is a cumulation of work done since early March up until where I am now. Hope you like it. As you might notice, the way I work can be sometimes chaotic, not focusing on one subject at a time...

 

First I finally received my new compressor. So far I have been working with a 24 liter hobby unit, which was very noisy and couldn't cope with the amount of air needed by my blast cabinet. Now I have a membrane compressor with a 70 liter tank, which can just keep up, but it's super quiet and has 5 years of warranty...

 

 20200204_192046927_iOS.jpg   38.61K   1 downloads

 

 20200204_193449859_iOS.jpg   71.7K   0 downloads

 

 20200205_200801066_iOS.jpg   49.71K   0 downloads

 

Then I started painting the first front hub and steering arm using Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic. It came out pretty nice, but needs quite some drying time.

 

 20200212_183757489_iOS.jpg   34.39K   1 downloads

 

 20200212_185809861_iOS.jpg   51.63K   0 downloads

 

 20200212_185815296_iOS.jpg   22.26K   0 downloads

 

As part of the front suspension/steering, I took out the steering column to rebuild that as well. It looked pretty good, but I figured it would be best to replace the bushes anyway.

 

 20200212_190157221_iOS.jpg   39.94K   0 downloads

 

 20200212_191520506_iOS.jpg   36.19K   1 downloads

 

 20200212_191539985_iOS.jpg   42.2K   1 downloads

 

 20200212_191644909_iOS.jpg   20.45K   1 downloads

 

Replaced upper bush:

 

 20200212_194722208_iOS.jpg   28.87K   0 downloads

 

Oiled the lower one:

 

 20200212_195017511_iOS.jpg   25.94K   1 downloads

 

Put it into place:

 

 20200212_200352715_iOS.jpg   25.96K   0 downloads

 

 20200212_200402406_iOS.jpg   32.13K   3 downloads

 

Found out the lower clamp bold had a stripped thread:

 

 20200213_150156786_iOS.jpg   36.37K   0 downloads

 

So had to replace that (and not forget the foam seal!):

 

 20200225_194656390_iOS.jpg   35.55K   0 downloads

 

Then I found the lowering bracket I bought many moons ago at Faxe Racing:

 

 20200212_201333546_iOS.jpg   37.46K   0 downloads

 

Which is quite a bit longer/lower than the standard one and is sturdier than the other after market lowering brackets.

 

 20200212_202014351_iOS.jpg   46.91K   0 downloads

 

Installed:

 

 20200213_144137717_iOS.jpg   63.21K   2 downloads

 

When busy with the steering rack, I discovered that I would not have enough room to use the standard MPI fuel lines. Apparently, the MPI Mini's have a larger dent in the bulkhead to give room to the 3 fuel lines (supply, return and vent). I'm only going to use two of them, but even for those, there is not enough room:

 

 20200225_204835119_iOS.jpg   51.41K   3 downloads

 

So I figured I needed more space and to be able to create that, I needed to remove the front subframe completely:

 

 20200228_201941250_iOS.jpg   52.81K   2 downloads

 

 20200228_203827918_iOS.jpg   83.1K   1 downloads

 

Cleaned the area that should be changed and bought this part of the bulkhead off of someone who was scrapping an MPI Mini:

 

 20200307_143336230_iOS.jpg   69.59K   0 downloads

 

Of course that means cutting out a part and welding in the replacement part...

 

Also received the new fuel line mounting brackets from QSP. Still figuring how to mount them in/on rubber:

 

 20200307_143320382_iOS.jpg   35.55K   0 downloads

 

Also something needs to be done to the engine, so I had to take it apart completely:

 

 20200308_131659914_iOS.jpg   47.84K   0 downloads

 

Timing chain spanner broke (once again)...

 

 20200310_180534343_iOS.jpg   67.65K   1 downloads

 

Stripping continues:

 

 20200316_201650774_iOS.jpg   47.37K   0 downloads

 

 20200316_201656266_iOS.jpg   50.01K   0 downloads

 

 20200316_205152778_iOS.jpg   73.32K   0 downloads

 

 20200316_205201936_iOS.jpg   76.19K   0 downloads

 

Then took the short block to a friend who has a milling machine and he took 0.25mm off of the face, to make the compression ratio right. The cylinders were honed and the block was then washed/cleaned.

 

 20200317_202652402_iOS.jpg   57.67K   2 downloads

 

 20200327_165344751_iOS.jpg   51.75K   1 downloads

 

On the workbench in my garage:

 

 20200413_160532093_iOS.jpg   57.1K   2 downloads

 

When looking at the block I figured I wanted more done to it. I wanted the paint to be blasted off and I want to replace the oil gallery plugs and core plugs. Something is wrong with the cam bearings as well... So I took it to the machining shop in the neighborhood and that's where it sits now:

 

 20200507_123009483_iOS.jpg   41.04K   2 downloads

 

 20200507_123028326_iOS.jpg   88.76K   2 downloads

 

Next steps are:

• Order new piston rings
• Wait for the block to return and build it up
• Start working on the bulkhead change for the fuel lines

[fokko]

I started with the left-hand hub and applied a slightly different method. This is what it looked like before:

 

 20200513_191636469_iOS.jpg   48.3K   2 downloads

 

Ancillaries removed:

 

 20200513_193316133_iOS.jpg   36.06K   2 downloads

 

After treatment in the parts washer:

 

 20200513_194104728_iOS.jpg   22.66K   1 downloads

 

Thought I would use this for the surfaces that should not be painted:

 

 20200513_194211808_iOS.jpg   42.55K   0 downloads

 

Which gives this result:

 

 20200513_194529824_iOS.jpg   57.66K   0 downloads

 

All prepped for blasting:

 

 20200513_195342377_iOS.jpg   31.1K   0 downloads

 

 20200513_195347692_iOS.jpg   37.54K   0 downloads

 

Media blast result:

 

 20200513_201524390_iOS.jpg   38.41K   0 downloads

 

First layer of zinc primer:

 

 20200513_202942762_iOS.jpg   47.56K   0 downloads

 

Then I carried on with the part that is going in the bulkhead to give room to the additional fuel lines. I wanted to get it cleaned. Before:

 

 20200513_210106683_iOS.jpg   49.41K   0 downloads

 

 20200513_210111775_iOS.jpg   77.16K   1 downloads

 

Started scraping off the sealant or whatever it may be...:

 

 20200513_210539646_iOS.jpg   56.94K   0 downloads

 

Media blast result:

 

 20200513_213124409_iOS.jpg   44.16K   0 downloads

 

"Cardboard aided design" (copyright Project Binky):

 

 20200514_123528328_iOS.jpg   39.94K   0 downloads

 

 20200514_123608215_iOS.jpg   36.54K   0 downloads

 

Cleaned the designated location:

 

 20200514_173430226_iOS.jpg   72.67K   1 downloads

 

And then I stopped. I need to find the right moment to start cutting. I don't want to wake my children doing so...

In the meanwhile I got my engine block back from the machining shop. They shot peened the outside with glass particles. It doesn't remove everything, but most of the paint is gone. Also they fitted new cam bearings as these were badly damaged... This is how it came back:

 

 20200516_131523117_iOS.jpg   80.03K   0 downloads

 

I removed a casting error near the dipstick hole:

 

 20200516_131534241_iOS.jpg   61.88K   0 downloads

 

I used my Dremel to get rid of the remaining paint, what a job!

 

 20200517_115308785_iOS.jpg   73.22K   0 downloads

 

 20200517_124315828_iOS.jpg   83.44K   1 downloads

 

 20200518_192411996_iOS.jpg   80.47K   1 downloads

 

I was not able to remove every detail, but it got pretty close to bare metal:

 

 20200518_192426820_iOS.jpg   90.86K   0 downloads

 

Then the first layer of paint:

 

 20200518_200730791_iOS.jpg   75.87K   0 downloads

 

 20200518_200748939_iOS.jpg   78.63K   0 downloads

 

And the second layer:

 

 20200520_193841094_iOS.jpg   75.68K   0 downloads

 

 20200520_193825143_iOS.jpg   78.16K   1 downloads

 

I also received some goodies!

Piston rings, timing chain, main cap dowels, cam lock ring and nut:

 

 20200514_122910094_iOS.jpg   56.63K   1 downloads

 

Timing chain tensioner pad and gearchange mounting rubbers:

 

 20200516_125434047_iOS.jpg   52.11K   2 downloads

 

To clean the engine block I used a selection of Dremel accessoires (cutting discs are not for the engine block ;)):

 

 20200517_115301790_iOS.jpg   64.61K   1 downloads

[fokko]

Today I briefly worked on the engine block. I removed some of the paint on areas that shouldn't have paint;

 

Before:

 

 20200522_104808838_iOS.jpg   31.99K   0 downloads

 

After:

 

 20200522_113540653_iOS.jpg   36.7K   0 downloads

 

Before:

 

 20200522_104814397_iOS.jpg   47.49K   0 downloads

 

After:

 

 20200522_113543566_iOS.jpg   47.14K   0 downloads

 

And I mounted the first two blanking plates (obviously because it is going to be fuel injected):

 

 20200523_123804183_iOS.jpg   66.48K   0 downloads

 

 20200523_125713445_iOS.jpg   83.41K   1 downloads

 

Then I took the job of actually cutting the hole to put the MPI panel in (in the bulkhead). Not a job I particularly like... Made the first cut to check where it lands exactly on the inside (just between the brake and clutch pedal):

 

 20200523_121925818_iOS.jpg   60.81K   1 downloads

 

Protected the inside from angle grinder sparks:

 

 20200523_121830668_iOS.jpg   53.62K   1 downloads

 

Cut (part of) the hole:

 

 20200523_151820236_iOS.jpg   72.37K   0 downloads

 

Removed the clips for the old fuel line that were still in place:

 

 20200523_151825934_iOS.jpg   47.49K   0 downloads

 

Next job will be to finalize the cut and prepare for welding in the new "panel". Also I have ordered plastigauge to be able to start building the engine...

[fokko]

Today I continued making the small panel fit in the gap. The fit was already pretty tight:

 

 20200524_124331030_iOS.jpg   61.2K   0 downloads

 

As you can see, I had to remove part of the panel, because it would be too close to the bracket that holds the steering rack:

 

 20200524_124748408_iOS.jpg   45.58K   0 downloads

 

Cut off a section and it looks like it fits pretty good:

 

 20200524_145245737_iOS.jpg   50.67K   1 downloads

 

 20200524_145254042_iOS.jpg   31.9K   0 downloads

 

Together with the Plastigauge, I ordered Intergrips, which are necessary to keep this panel in place while welding: https://www.eastwood...s-set-of-4.html. I will take a week for them to arrive, so that's enough time to get the 1mm panel gap between the two panels  .

 

 

[fokko]

So I did some welding before, but now it's going to be serious... So before I started welding on the Mini, I tried my luck on the piece of metal that I cut out. I first made some spotwelds, then some continuous welds (all while playing with the settings of my machine) and lastly I tried to weld two pieces together which failed miserably... I also bought some 0.75mm mild steel sheet to try some more, but kept on failing. Setting of Amps & Volts is lowest I can get on my machine and I had my wire speed as low as possible. How is everybody else doing this?? The only thing I'm good at is making the gap even wider...

 

 20200527_201727832_iOS.jpg   77.29K   1 downloads

 

 20200528_203915829_iOS.jpg   44.84K   1 downloads

 

This is my welder, not your average cheap welding machine I would say...

 

 20200528_205442715_iOS.jpg   54.58K   2 downloads

 

Anyway, also some good news: I recieved some goodies

 

 20200528_182654296_iOS.jpg   63.76K   3 downloads

 

Welding magnets, Intergrips, Plastigauge and a clearcoat which can be sprayed over bare metal and is heat resistant up to 300 degrees C. I'm probably going to use it on the unpainted parts of the engine, so they look original, but don't rust...

[minibitz]

Try increasing the wire speed and don't try to run continuous welds. Where you are trying to butt two pieces of metal together have them almost touching then start with a small single tack. Allow the tack a few seconds to cool then do another directly onto the edge of the first tack and repeat working your way along. The tack will be thicker than the material either side so working along one tack at a time there will be less chance of burning through the metal.

[no66]

0.75 is thin, get som 0.9mm. practice just running bead and short tacks. 
The lowest setting on your machine migh just be too powefull. You will have to lean to compensate with just doing spots. 

I now have a varible voltage machine, so much better. 

I've found lots of good tips on Fitzee's Fabrications. 

 

https://www.youtube....icru8XPWr3EvJnw

 

 

Edited by no66, 29 May 2020 - 07:39 AM.

[fokko]

minibitz and no66: thanks for you tips! I combined them and results got better. I also replaced some parts of my welding torch which also helped a little bit. This is the last test weld I made. As you can see the horizontal weld between the two clamps doesn't look very bad:

 

 20200529_175034783_iOS.heic.jpeg   66.97K   1 downloads

 

And this is what the other side looks like:

 20200529_175054056_iOS.heic.jpeg   74.21K   0 downloads

 

The hole I need to fill:

 

 20200529_180653194_iOS.heic.jpeg   50.23K   0 downloads

 

Cleaned up the other side as well:

 

 20200529_183611926_iOS.heic.jpeg   41.17K   0 downloads

 

Test fit:

 

 20200529_183714568_iOS.heic.jpeg   35.45K   0 downloads

 

Figured I had to remove the sealant to prevent it from catching fire during welding:

 

 20200529_185120127_iOS.heic.jpeg   43.57K   2 downloads

 

Cleaned:

 

 20200529_190332148_iOS.heic.jpeg   40.16K   0 downloads

 

Used the magnetic welding clamps:

 

 20200529_190557203_iOS.heic.jpeg   53.14K   0 downloads

 

 20200529_190620758_iOS.heic.jpeg   40.85K   1 downloads

 

Welding didn't go as well as on my workbench with the testing sheet metal as you can see

 

 20200529_193659678_iOS.heic.jpeg   33.35K   1 downloads

 

Had to fill some holes:

 

 20200607_124212499_iOS.heic.jpeg   34.18K   0 downloads

 

Then I tried welding the lower part, where I actually had to weld upside down. This didn't work, so I figured I'd better move to the inside... First some "protection":

 

 20200607_124158172_iOS.heic.jpeg   51.18K   0 downloads

 

Also used this:

 

 20200607_180200264_iOS.heic.jpeg   29.77K   0 downloads

 

It worked out (after I removed the braking/clutch pedals) more or less (still some welding to do):

 

 20200607_180112871_iOS.heic.jpeg   70.7K   0 downloads

 

So now I need to finish up the welds and get some temporary rust protection.

 

Also received some goodies:

 

Ball joints from Classic Minis Japan:

 

 20200601_200651223_iOS.heic.jpeg   46.83K   2 downloads

 

Auxiliary gauges (still missing one which is in backorder):

 

 20200606_115609344_iOS.heic.jpeg   60.01K   1 downloads

 

Paint for my brake discs and maybe some other parts:

 

 20200613_074256581_iOS.heic.jpeg   33.58K   2 downloads

 

[fokko]

Ok, finally another small update. Having 2 young girls doesn't contribute to quality time in the shed... ;)

So I have welded in the plate for the fuel lines. Now I need to fit them, but the rear subframe is in the way. I can take the rear subframe off, but I don't have space to do so, because the Mini is right next to the wall. So I need to put the front subframe back on, to be able to move the Mini in my garage... It's a bit of a pain and takes quite some time, but OK.

 

 20200625_192057045_iOS.jpg   64.52K   1 downloads

 

This was how the finished weld looks like. It's not nice, but it'll do for the time being. The restorer I'm going to bring my Mini to, to do the bodywork will need to redo this probably (or fit a complete new bulkhead...). It might be @Ben_O as I've seen some great work from him, but he is quite a few miles away from where I live...

 

 20200619_124543517_iOS.jpg   54.06K   0 downloads

 

Finished it off with some Bilthamber Electrox;

 

 20200619_124743922_iOS.jpg   51.68K   0 downloads

 

 20200619_124754872_iOS.jpg   51.33K   0 downloads

 

Then I cleaned one of the mounting clamps of the fuel lines. Before:

 

 20200619_143800126_iOS.jpg   53.21K   0 downloads

 

After:

 

 20200619_144702077_iOS.jpg   48.98K   0 downloads

 

And tried to fit the fuel lines (I only need 2 of them; feed & return), but of course the fit is bad because I couldn't put them correctly into place (the part that goes into the boot space doesn't have a hole yet to be fitted in):

 

 20200619_150744957_iOS.jpg   38.13K   0 downloads

 

In the meanwhile I tackled a small job and cleaned the heater valve using my ultrasonic cleaner, before:

 

 20200619_134941199_iOS.jpg   51.98K   2 downloads

 

After:

 

 20200619_183723949_iOS.jpg   56.92K   1 downloads

 

Then I cracked on with the front subframe, to prepare it to mount it back to the shell.

How it started:

 

 20200625_192050786_iOS.jpg   58.54K   0 downloads

 

Took off the hub and axle:

 

 20200625_193033591_iOS.jpg   38K   0 downloads

 

Had to clean the steering arm bolts first, before:

 

 20200625_193539638_iOS.jpg   75.97K   0 downloads

 

After:

 

 20200625_193717021_iOS.jpg   67.93K   0 downloads

 

Then I found out how I can make room for a socket to undo the bolts:

 

 20200625_194321730_iOS.jpg   36.31K   0 downloads

 

And it actually worked! No need to take the entire assembly apart, I could just undo the bolts and take the steering arm off!

 

 20200625_194921149_iOS.jpg   72.88K   0 downloads

 

I cleaned the two collars (in this picture one is cleaned, the other is not), using a Dremel with various accessoires:

 

 20200625_200443584_iOS.jpg   32.63K   0 downloads

 

Degreased and blasted the steering arm:

 

 20200625_202447724_iOS.jpg   42.43K   0 downloads

 

And sprayed a coat of Electrox onto it:

 

 20200625_203232141_iOS.jpg   18.93K   0 downloads

 

Then I removed the lower arm and tie-rod from the subframe, put it in the vice to remove the joining bolt, which was a hassle:

 

 20200626_194817199_iOS.jpg   64.34K   0 downloads

 

I used lots of WD40 and tried to rotate it. It worked more or less, but the bolt didn't come loose easily. Then I used a punch and that worked very well!

 

 20200626_195919021_iOS.jpg   48.67K   0 downloads

 

Then I had to remove the old rubber and metal bushes from the lower arm pin:

 

 20200626_200436187_iOS.jpg   56.3K   0 downloads

 

The first bush came out fairly easy, but the second one needed water pump pliers to remove it from the pin... This picture is after cleaning:

 

 20200626_201603394_iOS.jpg   43.07K   0 downloads

 

And the resisting bush:

 

 20200626_201608455_iOS.jpg   64.42K   0 downloads

 

Cleaned the pin, but it still contained some pitted rust:

 

 20200626_202928276_iOS.jpg   39.08K   0 downloads

 

 20200626_202934750_iOS.jpg   42.33K   1 downloads

 

Put it in a bath of Deox-C to get the last rust out:

 

 20200627_081356800_iOS.jpg   38.05K   1 downloads

 

Assembled it temporarily as well as the tie-rod:

 

 20200628_125244966_iOS.jpg   52.99K   1 downloads

 

Took out the upper arm axle and found this:

 

 20200628_125542742_iOS.jpg   54.86K   1 downloads

 

 20200628_130625215_iOS.jpg   44.43K   0 downloads

 

So I ordered an upper arm rebuild kit...

 

Hope to be able to post another update soon...

[slidehammer]

Great looking project and a great looking work space you have I am very envious. Keep practising on scrap 0.9mm steel (I know it is boring and we all want to get on with welding in new metal) but it will pay dividends in the end and you will end up with welds you know are strong and neat on the actual Mini. When I first started I remember ruining a panel and had to remove it and buy another all because I was too keen to start welding the actual car rather than boring practising. Good luck with the project.