Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

1979 Mini Ebony With Sc Injection

roundnose

  • Please log in to reply
32 replies to this topic

#16 ClassicBRG

ClassicBRG

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 64 posts
  • Location: The Netherlands

Posted 11 January 2020 - 04:28 PM

Nice job, good to see another Dutch Mini over here!

#17 no66

no66

    Mini Mad

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 111 posts
  • Location: Saetre, Norway
  • Local Club: NMCC (Norsk Mini Cooper Club)

Posted 12 January 2020 - 09:35 AM

Your 79 had origianlly had diagonal spit master and bulkhead block. 

If you want to keep this, you should have GMC167

Have a good think about how to plumb in a later 80-89 front / rear split to the bulkhead block. I should work though. :-)

 



 


Edited by no66, 12 January 2020 - 09:40 AM.


#18 fokko

fokko

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 73 posts
  • Location: The Netherlands
  • Local Club: Mini Seven Club Nederland

Posted 02 February 2020 - 06:40 PM

Nice job, good to see another Dutch Mini over here!

 

Thanks!

 

Your 79 had origianlly had diagonal spit master and bulkhead block. 

If you want to keep this, you should have GMC167

Have a good think about how to plumb in a later 80-89 front / rear split to the bulkhead block. I should work though. :-)

 

Thanks for the heads-up! But I understood that my Mini was built in Belgium and these Mini's already had the front-rear split circuit. Check below picture:

 

Attached File  20200113_065445067_iOS.jpg   91.84K   2 downloads



#19 fokko

fokko

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 73 posts
  • Location: The Netherlands
  • Local Club: Mini Seven Club Nederland

Posted 02 February 2020 - 06:55 PM

It has been a while since the last update. I have been sick and had to regain energy to start working on the Mini again... Today I finally found some time and energy... Also last week I finally received my parcel from Bilt Hamber containing a bottle of Electrox and some Epoxy Mastic, so I could finish off the front hub and steering arm;

 

Attached File  20200202_132600442_iOS.jpg   32.48K   3 downloads

 

After the Deox-C bath I used the Dremel to remove the last bit of junk from the hub and the steering arm and this is how they looked;

 

Attached File  20200202_140946208_iOS.jpg   47.94K   1 downloads

 

After the first layer of Electrox;

 

Attached File  20200202_142609518_iOS.jpg   57.22K   1 downloads

 

Then I started working on the steering rack. It had to come out to replace it, but I discovered I barely had enough space to take it out;

 

Attached File  20200202_150458969_iOS.jpg   21.3K   0 downloads

 

When lowering the subframe for the steering rack to come out, one of the rubbers broke. No problem, I was going to replace them anyway;

 

Attached File  20200202_150658565_iOS.jpg   54.77K   0 downloads

 

Old & new;

 

Attached File  20200202_151514369_iOS.jpg   53K   0 downloads

 

Cleaned the U-bolts (50/50);

 

Attached File  20200202_152915597_iOS.jpg   51.55K   1 downloads

 

New rack installed (u-bolts are not tightened yet, first need to fit the steering column);

 

Attached File  20200202_160249352_iOS.jpg   53.73K   2 downloads

 

Hope to have another update later this week...



#20 theclassicminishop

theclassicminishop

    Learner Driver

  • Noobies
  • PipPip
  • 18 posts
  • Location: Pretoria
  • Local Club: MOCSA

Posted 20 February 2020 - 03:50 AM

Excellent work there.  Keep it up.



#21 fokko

fokko

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 73 posts
  • Location: The Netherlands
  • Local Club: Mini Seven Club Nederland

Posted 07 May 2020 - 07:49 PM

Ok, first I apologize for posting so late. It has been a strange time with the COVID-19 virus. Apart from that my girlfriend gave birth to our second daughter... Anyways, I still found time to do some work on the Mini. This is a cumulation of work done since early March up until where I am now. Hope you like it. As you might notice, the way I work can be sometimes chaotic, not focusing on one subject at a time...

 

First I finally received my new compressor. So far I have been working with a 24 liter hobby unit, which was very noisy and couldn't cope with the amount of air needed by my blast cabinet. Now I have a membrane compressor with a 70 liter tank, which can just keep up, but it's super quiet and has 5 years of warranty...

 

Attached File  20200204_192046927_iOS.jpg   38.61K   1 downloads

 

Attached File  20200204_193449859_iOS.jpg   71.7K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200205_200801066_iOS.jpg   49.71K   0 downloads

 

Then I started painting the first front hub and steering arm using Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic. It came out pretty nice, but needs quite some drying time.

 

Attached File  20200212_183757489_iOS.jpg   34.39K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200212_185809861_iOS.jpg   51.63K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200212_185815296_iOS.jpg   22.26K   0 downloads

 

As part of the front suspension/steering, I took out the steering column to rebuild that as well. It looked pretty good, but I figured it would be best to replace the bushes anyway.

 

Attached File  20200212_190157221_iOS.jpg   39.94K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200212_191520506_iOS.jpg   36.19K   1 downloads

 

Attached File  20200212_191539985_iOS.jpg   42.2K   1 downloads

 

Attached File  20200212_191644909_iOS.jpg   20.45K   1 downloads

 

Replaced upper bush:

 

Attached File  20200212_194722208_iOS.jpg   28.87K   0 downloads

 

Oiled the lower one:

 

Attached File  20200212_195017511_iOS.jpg   25.94K   1 downloads

 

Put it into place:

 

Attached File  20200212_200352715_iOS.jpg   25.96K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200212_200402406_iOS.jpg   32.13K   3 downloads

 

Found out the lower clamp bold had a stripped thread:

 

Attached File  20200213_150156786_iOS.jpg   36.37K   0 downloads

 

So had to replace that (and not forget the foam seal!):

 

Attached File  20200225_194656390_iOS.jpg   35.55K   0 downloads

 

Then I found the lowering bracket I bought many moons ago at Faxe Racing:

 

Attached File  20200212_201333546_iOS.jpg   37.46K   0 downloads

 

Which is quite a bit longer/lower than the standard one and is sturdier than the other after market lowering brackets.

 

Attached File  20200212_202014351_iOS.jpg   46.91K   0 downloads

 

Installed:

 

Attached File  20200213_144137717_iOS.jpg   63.21K   0 downloads

 

When busy with the steering rack, I discovered that I would not have enough room to use the standard MPI fuel lines. Apparently, the MPI Mini's have a larger dent in the bulkhead to give room to the 3 fuel lines (supply, return and vent). I'm only going to use two of them, but even for those, there is not enough room:

 

Attached File  20200225_204835119_iOS.jpg   51.41K   0 downloads

 

So I figured I needed more space and to be able to create that, I needed to remove the front subframe completely:

 

Attached File  20200228_201941250_iOS.jpg   52.81K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200228_203827918_iOS.jpg   83.1K   0 downloads

 

Cleaned the area that should be changed and bought this part of the bulkhead off of someone who was scrapping an MPI Mini:

 

Attached File  20200307_143336230_iOS.jpg   69.59K   0 downloads

 

Of course that means cutting out a part and welding in the replacement part...

 

Also received the new fuel line mounting brackets from QSP. Still figuring how to mount them in/on rubber:

 

Attached File  20200307_143320382_iOS.jpg   35.55K   0 downloads

 

Also something needs to be done to the engine, so I had to take it apart completely:

 

Attached File  20200308_131659914_iOS.jpg   47.84K   0 downloads

 

Timing chain spanner broke (once again)...

 

Attached File  20200310_180534343_iOS.jpg   67.65K   0 downloads

 

Stripping continues:

 

Attached File  20200316_201650774_iOS.jpg   47.37K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200316_201656266_iOS.jpg   50.01K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200316_205152778_iOS.jpg   73.32K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200316_205201936_iOS.jpg   76.19K   0 downloads

 

Then took the short block to a friend who has a milling machine and he took 0.25mm off of the face, to make the compression ratio right. The cylinders were honed and the block was then washed/cleaned.

 

Attached File  20200317_202652402_iOS.jpg   57.67K   1 downloads

 

Attached File  20200327_165344751_iOS.jpg   51.75K   1 downloads

 

On the workbench in my garage:

 

Attached File  20200413_160532093_iOS.jpg   57.1K   2 downloads

 

When looking at the block I figured I wanted more done to it. I wanted the paint to be blasted off and I want to replace the oil gallery plugs and core plugs. Something is wrong with the cam bearings as well... So I took it to the machining shop in the neighborhood and that's where it sits now:

 

Attached File  20200507_123009483_iOS.jpg   41.04K   2 downloads

 

Attached File  20200507_123028326_iOS.jpg   88.76K   2 downloads

 

Next steps are:

  • Order new piston rings
  • Wait for the block to return and build it up
  • Start working on the bulkhead change for the fuel lines


#22 fokko

fokko

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 73 posts
  • Location: The Netherlands
  • Local Club: Mini Seven Club Nederland

Posted 20 May 2020 - 08:21 PM

I started with the left-hand hub and applied a slightly different method. This is what it looked like before:

 

Attached File  20200513_191636469_iOS.jpg   48.3K   1 downloads

 

Ancillaries removed:

 

Attached File  20200513_193316133_iOS.jpg   36.06K   1 downloads

 

After treatment in the parts washer:

 

Attached File  20200513_194104728_iOS.jpg   22.66K   0 downloads

 

Thought I would use this for the surfaces that should not be painted:

 

Attached File  20200513_194211808_iOS.jpg   42.55K   0 downloads

 

Which gives this result:

 

Attached File  20200513_194529824_iOS.jpg   57.66K   0 downloads

 

All prepped for blasting:

 

Attached File  20200513_195342377_iOS.jpg   31.1K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200513_195347692_iOS.jpg   37.54K   0 downloads

 

Media blast result:

 

Attached File  20200513_201524390_iOS.jpg   38.41K   0 downloads

 

First layer of zinc primer:

 

Attached File  20200513_202942762_iOS.jpg   47.56K   0 downloads

 

Then I carried on with the part that is going in the bulkhead to give room to the additional fuel lines. I wanted to get it cleaned. Before:

 

Attached File  20200513_210106683_iOS.jpg   49.41K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200513_210111775_iOS.jpg   77.16K   1 downloads

 

Started scraping off the sealant or whatever it may be...:

 

Attached File  20200513_210539646_iOS.jpg   56.94K   0 downloads

 

Media blast result:

 

Attached File  20200513_213124409_iOS.jpg   44.16K   0 downloads

 

"Cardboard aided design" (copyright Project Binky):

 

Attached File  20200514_123528328_iOS.jpg   39.94K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200514_123608215_iOS.jpg   36.54K   0 downloads

 

Cleaned the designated location:

 

Attached File  20200514_173430226_iOS.jpg   72.67K   1 downloads

 

And then I stopped. I need to find the right moment to start cutting. I don't want to wake my children doing so...

In the meanwhile I got my engine block back from the machining shop. They shot peened the outside with glass particles. It doesn't remove everything, but most of the paint is gone. Also they fitted new cam bearings as these were badly damaged... This is how it came back:

 

Attached File  20200516_131523117_iOS.jpg   80.03K   0 downloads

 

I removed a casting error near the dipstick hole:

 

Attached File  20200516_131534241_iOS.jpg   61.88K   0 downloads

 

I used my Dremel to get rid of the remaining paint, what a job!

 

Attached File  20200517_115308785_iOS.jpg   73.22K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200517_124315828_iOS.jpg   83.44K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200518_192411996_iOS.jpg   80.47K   0 downloads

 

I was not able to remove every detail, but it got pretty close to bare metal:

 

Attached File  20200518_192426820_iOS.jpg   90.86K   0 downloads

 

Then the first layer of paint:

 

Attached File  20200518_200730791_iOS.jpg   75.87K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200518_200748939_iOS.jpg   78.63K   0 downloads

 

And the second layer:

 

Attached File  20200520_193841094_iOS.jpg   75.68K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200520_193825143_iOS.jpg   78.16K   0 downloads

 

I also received some goodies!

Piston rings, timing chain, main cap dowels, cam lock ring and nut:

 

Attached File  20200514_122910094_iOS.jpg   56.63K   0 downloads

 

Timing chain tensioner pad and gearchange mounting rubbers:

 

Attached File  20200516_125434047_iOS.jpg   52.11K   0 downloads

 

To clean the engine block I used a selection of Dremel accessoires (cutting discs are not for the engine block ;)):

 

Attached File  20200517_115301790_iOS.jpg   64.61K   0 downloads



#23 fokko

fokko

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 73 posts
  • Location: The Netherlands
  • Local Club: Mini Seven Club Nederland

Posted 23 May 2020 - 07:45 PM

Today I briefly worked on the engine block. I removed some of the paint on areas that shouldn't have paint;

 

Before:

 

Attached File  20200522_104808838_iOS.jpg   31.99K   0 downloads

 

After:

 

Attached File  20200522_113540653_iOS.jpg   36.7K   0 downloads

 

Before:

 

Attached File  20200522_104814397_iOS.jpg   47.49K   0 downloads

 

After:

 

Attached File  20200522_113543566_iOS.jpg   47.14K   0 downloads

 

And I mounted the first two blanking plates (obviously because it is going to be fuel injected):

 

Attached File  20200523_123804183_iOS.jpg   66.48K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200523_125713445_iOS.jpg   83.41K   0 downloads

 

Then I took the job of actually cutting the hole to put the MPI panel in (in the bulkhead). Not a job I particularly like... Made the first cut to check where it lands exactly on the inside (just between the brake and clutch pedal):

 

Attached File  20200523_121925818_iOS.jpg   60.81K   0 downloads

 

Protected the inside from angle grinder sparks:

 

Attached File  20200523_121830668_iOS.jpg   53.62K   0 downloads

 

Cut (part of) the hole:

 

Attached File  20200523_151820236_iOS.jpg   72.37K   0 downloads

 

Removed the clips for the old fuel line that were still in place:

 

Attached File  20200523_151825934_iOS.jpg   47.49K   0 downloads

 

Next job will be to finalize the cut and prepare for welding in the new "panel". Also I have ordered plastigauge to be able to start building the engine...



#24 fokko

fokko

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 73 posts
  • Location: The Netherlands
  • Local Club: Mini Seven Club Nederland

Posted 24 May 2020 - 07:45 PM

Today I continued making the small panel fit in the gap. The fit was already pretty tight:

 

Attached File  20200524_124331030_iOS.jpg   61.2K   0 downloads

 

As you can see, I had to remove part of the panel, because it would be too close to the bracket that holds the steering rack:

 

Attached File  20200524_124748408_iOS.jpg   45.58K   0 downloads

 

Cut off a section and it looks like it fits pretty good:

 

Attached File  20200524_145245737_iOS.jpg   50.67K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200524_145254042_iOS.jpg   31.9K   0 downloads

 

Together with the Plastigauge, I ordered Intergrips, which are necessary to keep this panel in place while welding: https://www.eastwood...s-set-of-4.html. I will take a week for them to arrive, so that's enough time to get the 1mm panel gap between the two panels  :lol: .

 

 



#25 fokko

fokko

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 73 posts
  • Location: The Netherlands
  • Local Club: Mini Seven Club Nederland

Posted 28 May 2020 - 09:24 PM

So I did some welding before, but now it's going to be serious... So before I started welding on the Mini, I tried my luck on the piece of metal that I cut out. I first made some spotwelds, then some continuous welds (all while playing with the settings of my machine) and lastly I tried to weld two pieces together which failed miserably... I also bought some 0.75mm mild steel sheet to try some more, but kept on failing. Setting of Amps & Volts is lowest I can get on my machine and I had my wire speed as low as possible. How is everybody else doing this?? The only thing I'm good at is making the gap even wider...

 

Attached File  20200527_201727832_iOS.jpg   77.29K   1 downloads

 

Attached File  20200528_203915829_iOS.jpg   44.84K   1 downloads

 

This is my welder, not your average cheap welding machine I would say...

 

Attached File  20200528_205442715_iOS.jpg   54.58K   1 downloads

 

Anyway, also some good news: I recieved some goodies :-)

 

Attached File  20200528_182654296_iOS.jpg   63.76K   1 downloads

 

Welding magnets, Intergrips, Plastigauge and a clearcoat which can be sprayed over bare metal and is heat resistant up to 300 degrees C. I'm probably going to use it on the unpainted parts of the engine, so they look original, but don't rust...



#26 minibitz

minibitz

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Local Club: Auckland Mini Club

Posted 29 May 2020 - 03:13 AM

Try increasing the wire speed and don't try to run continuous welds. Where you are trying to butt two pieces of metal together have them almost touching then start with a small single tack. Allow the tack a few seconds to cool then do another directly onto the edge of the first tack and repeat working your way along. The tack will be thicker than the material either side so working along one tack at a time there will be less chance of burning through the metal.



#27 no66

no66

    Mini Mad

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 111 posts
  • Location: Saetre, Norway
  • Local Club: NMCC (Norsk Mini Cooper Club)

Posted 29 May 2020 - 07:36 AM

0.75 is thin, get som 0.9mm. practice just running bead and short tacks. 
The lowest setting on your machine migh just be too powefull. You will have to lean to compensate with just doing spots. 

I now have a varible voltage machine, so much better. 

I've found lots of good tips on Fitzee's Fabrications. 

 

https://www.youtube....icru8XPWr3EvJnw

 

 


Edited by no66, 29 May 2020 - 07:39 AM.


#28 fokko

fokko

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 73 posts
  • Location: The Netherlands
  • Local Club: Mini Seven Club Nederland

Posted 15 June 2020 - 08:03 AM

minibitz and no66: thanks for you tips! I combined them and results got better. I also replaced some parts of my welding torch which also helped a little bit. This is the last test weld I made. As you can see the horizontal weld between the two clamps doesn't look very bad:

 

Attached File  20200529_175034783_iOS.heic.jpeg   66.97K   1 downloads

 

And this is what the other side looks like:

Attached File  20200529_175054056_iOS.heic.jpeg   74.21K   0 downloads

 

The hole I need to fill:

 

Attached File  20200529_180653194_iOS.heic.jpeg   50.23K   0 downloads

 

Cleaned up the other side as well:

 

Attached File  20200529_183611926_iOS.heic.jpeg   41.17K   0 downloads

 

Test fit:

 

Attached File  20200529_183714568_iOS.heic.jpeg   35.45K   0 downloads

 

Figured I had to remove the sealant to prevent it from catching fire during welding:

 

Attached File  20200529_185120127_iOS.heic.jpeg   43.57K   2 downloads

 

Cleaned:

 

Attached File  20200529_190332148_iOS.heic.jpeg   40.16K   0 downloads

 

Used the magnetic welding clamps:

 

Attached File  20200529_190557203_iOS.heic.jpeg   53.14K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200529_190620758_iOS.heic.jpeg   40.85K   0 downloads

 

Welding didn't go as well as on my workbench with the testing sheet metal as you can see :(

 

Attached File  20200529_193659678_iOS.heic.jpeg   33.35K   0 downloads

 

Had to fill some holes:

 

Attached File  20200607_124212499_iOS.heic.jpeg   34.18K   0 downloads

 

Then I tried welding the lower part, where I actually had to weld upside down. This didn't work, so I figured I'd better move to the inside... First some "protection":

 

Attached File  20200607_124158172_iOS.heic.jpeg   51.18K   0 downloads

 

Also used this:

 

Attached File  20200607_180200264_iOS.heic.jpeg   29.77K   0 downloads

 

It worked out (after I removed the braking/clutch pedals) more or less (still some welding to do):

 

Attached File  20200607_180112871_iOS.heic.jpeg   70.7K   0 downloads

 

So now I need to finish up the welds and get some temporary rust protection.

 

Also received some goodies:

 

Ball joints from Classic Minis Japan:

 

Attached File  20200601_200651223_iOS.heic.jpeg   46.83K   1 downloads

 

Auxiliary gauges (still missing one which is in backorder):

 

Attached File  20200606_115609344_iOS.heic.jpeg   60.01K   1 downloads

 

Paint for my brake discs and maybe some other parts:

 

Attached File  20200613_074256581_iOS.heic.jpeg   33.58K   1 downloads

 



#29 fokko

fokko

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 73 posts
  • Location: The Netherlands
  • Local Club: Mini Seven Club Nederland

Posted 30 June 2020 - 07:16 PM

Ok, finally another small update. Having 2 young girls doesn't contribute to quality time in the shed... ;)

So I have welded in the plate for the fuel lines. Now I need to fit them, but the rear subframe is in the way. I can take the rear subframe off, but I don't have space to do so, because the Mini is right next to the wall. So I need to put the front subframe back on, to be able to move the Mini in my garage... It's a bit of a pain and takes quite some time, but OK.

 

Attached File  20200625_192057045_iOS.jpg   64.52K   0 downloads

 

This was how the finished weld looks like. It's not nice, but it'll do for the time being. The restorer I'm going to bring my Mini to, to do the bodywork will need to redo this probably (or fit a complete new bulkhead...). It might be @Ben_O as I've seen some great work from him, but he is quite a few miles away from where I live...

 

Attached File  20200619_124543517_iOS.jpg   54.06K   0 downloads

 

Finished it off with some Bilthamber Electrox;

 

Attached File  20200619_124743922_iOS.jpg   51.68K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200619_124754872_iOS.jpg   51.33K   0 downloads

 

Then I cleaned one of the mounting clamps of the fuel lines. Before:

 

Attached File  20200619_143800126_iOS.jpg   53.21K   0 downloads

 

After:

 

Attached File  20200619_144702077_iOS.jpg   48.98K   0 downloads

 

And tried to fit the fuel lines (I only need 2 of them; feed & return), but of course the fit is bad because I couldn't put them correctly into place (the part that goes into the boot space doesn't have a hole yet to be fitted in):

 

Attached File  20200619_150744957_iOS.jpg   38.13K   0 downloads

 

In the meanwhile I tackled a small job and cleaned the heater valve using my ultrasonic cleaner, before:

 

Attached File  20200619_134941199_iOS.jpg   51.98K   2 downloads

 

After:

 

Attached File  20200619_183723949_iOS.jpg   56.92K   0 downloads

 

Then I cracked on with the front subframe, to prepare it to mount it back to the shell.

How it started:

 

Attached File  20200625_192050786_iOS.jpg   58.54K   0 downloads

 

Took off the hub and axle:

 

Attached File  20200625_193033591_iOS.jpg   38K   0 downloads

 

Had to clean the steering arm bolts first, before:

 

Attached File  20200625_193539638_iOS.jpg   75.97K   0 downloads

 

After:

 

Attached File  20200625_193717021_iOS.jpg   67.93K   0 downloads

 

Then I found out how I can make room for a socket to undo the bolts:

 

Attached File  20200625_194321730_iOS.jpg   36.31K   0 downloads

 

And it actually worked! No need to take the entire assembly apart, I could just undo the bolts and take the steering arm off!

 

Attached File  20200625_194921149_iOS.jpg   72.88K   0 downloads

 

I cleaned the two collars (in this picture one is cleaned, the other is not), using a Dremel with various accessoires:

 

Attached File  20200625_200443584_iOS.jpg   32.63K   0 downloads

 

Degreased and blasted the steering arm:

 

Attached File  20200625_202447724_iOS.jpg   42.43K   0 downloads

 

And sprayed a coat of Electrox onto it:

 

Attached File  20200625_203232141_iOS.jpg   18.93K   0 downloads

 

Then I removed the lower arm and tie-rod from the subframe, put it in the vice to remove the joining bolt, which was a hassle:

 

Attached File  20200626_194817199_iOS.jpg   64.34K   0 downloads

 

I used lots of WD40 and tried to rotate it. It worked more or less, but the bolt didn't come loose easily. Then I used a punch and that worked very well!

 

Attached File  20200626_195919021_iOS.jpg   48.67K   0 downloads

 

Then I had to remove the old rubber and metal bushes from the lower arm pin:

 

Attached File  20200626_200436187_iOS.jpg   56.3K   0 downloads

 

The first bush came out fairly easy, but the second one needed water pump pliers to remove it from the pin... This picture is after cleaning:

 

Attached File  20200626_201603394_iOS.jpg   43.07K   0 downloads

 

And the resisting bush:

 

Attached File  20200626_201608455_iOS.jpg   64.42K   0 downloads

 

Cleaned the pin, but it still contained some pitted rust:

 

Attached File  20200626_202928276_iOS.jpg   39.08K   0 downloads

 

Attached File  20200626_202934750_iOS.jpg   42.33K   1 downloads

 

Put it in a bath of Deox-C to get the last rust out:

 

Attached File  20200627_081356800_iOS.jpg   38.05K   1 downloads

 

Assembled it temporarily as well as the tie-rod:

 

Attached File  20200628_125244966_iOS.jpg   52.99K   1 downloads

 

Took out the upper arm axle and found this:

 

Attached File  20200628_125542742_iOS.jpg   54.86K   1 downloads

 

Attached File  20200628_130625215_iOS.jpg   44.43K   0 downloads

 

So I ordered an upper arm rebuild kit...

 

Hope to be able to post another update soon...



#30 slidehammer

slidehammer

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 804 posts
  • Location: Surrey
  • Local Club: LSMOC

Posted 01 July 2020 - 08:38 AM

Great looking project and a great looking work space you have I am very envious. Keep practising on scrap 0.9mm steel (I know it is boring and we all want to get on with welding in new metal) but it will pay dividends in the end and you will end up with welds you know are strong and neat on the actual Mini. When I first started I remember ruining a panel and had to remove it and buy another all because I was too keen to start welding the actual car rather than boring practising. Good luck with the project.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: roundnose

1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users

Mini Spares