647 replies to this topic

[sonikk4]

If i was you start to drill out all the spot welds that secure the heelboard to the seat pan and the rear bulkhead, the same as well for where the seat pan meets the companion boxes. At the front of the seat pan there is also a central support with a couple of spot welds on that.

Word to the wise though when you look at the new seat pan front lip there is only one skin making the front lip very flexible. I have cut a .5" inch strip of metal to spot weld to this lip to reinforce it.

If your car is not fuel injected and you end up with the same boot floor as us then you will need to plug the large hole where all the pipe work goes. I forgot so will have to do this later with a nice metal insert.

[analogue_radio]

If i was you start to drill out all the spot welds that secure the heelboard to the seat pan and the rear bulkhead, the same as well for where the seat pan meets the companion boxes. At the front of the seat pan there is also a central support with a couple of spot welds on that.

Do I access those from inside the cab or from the underside?

[analogue_radio]

Hello T2 turbo













Not 100% sure if this will be going on or not.. it will cost me another £800 - £1,000 for all the other bits to go with it. I'll carry on with the bodywork over summer and when it comes to getting the engine and subframes back in, I'll see what money I've got. But I would love to do it!

There is very very very little play in the shaft which is brilliant.

[AndrewJ530]

Ha! I knew you couldn't resist doing something to the engine .

Another 998 turbo, should show these 1275 boys a thing or two.

[analogue_radio]

Yup

Picking up my new head this weekend, a 12g295, totally unmolested! for a bargain price

Just got back from work, will go and do a few hours in the garage. Get some coffee going, bit of music, sorted for the night

[AndrewJ530]

Sweet. If you're lucky you might not even need to do any chamber shaping to get the right CR for the turbo .

[analogue_radio]

According to Turbo Minis it should just bolt on! will be the right CR.

My ears are ringing could really do with some ear defenders when I'm 10 cm away from an angle grinder for a few hours.

Companion bins cut out, did a bit of thinking and they aren't needed.

+ gives me better access to the rusty holes behind, i can do a proper job of repairing them now
+ saves weight
+ i might be going with harnesses, or if i put standard seatbelts in i'll just go through the floor with them





So they came out.. and I removed the overhanging section of the floor, I really should be drilling the spot welds out.. but I think my drill piece is made of plastic just not doing anything.. I'll get one on order, what size should I be using?



Everything is coming out in chunks at the moment

[Jet_black]

Where did you get the turbo from?

[analogue_radio]

Off Ebay

[Jet_black]

Looks good, I'm still on the lookout for one.

[sonikk4]

If i was you start to drill out all the spot welds that secure the heelboard to the seat pan and the rear bulkhead, the same as well for where the seat pan meets the companion boxes. At the front of the seat pan there is also a central support with a couple of spot welds on that.

Do I access those from inside the cab or from the underside?

The heelboard spot welds, access them from inside the car you should be able to see them fine if not just lightly grind over the general area which should show them up clearer.

Sorry for the late post and reply

[Deathrow]

Or rub sandpaper over the lip if you're not too confident with the grinder yet, as if you press a little too hard, you'll lose where the spot weld is. Sandpaper will highlight them for you great, then just center punch and drill out!

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item19bc45048c

Thats the sort of spot weld bit you want. I bought an 8mm Dormer one and I've not replaced it yet, eBay only seems to have 6.5mm Dormer bits at the moment though sadly.

[jackpaice]

If you want custom doorcards made just give us a shout, i can do speaker boards and dashes aswell in pretty much any design

[mighty mini jack]

Nice decision on cutting the bins and stuff out mate, I'll be doing it next week.

Really wasn't sure if i should or not though! Keep up the good work

[analogue_radio]

Or rub sandpaper over the lip if you're not too confident with the grinder yet, as if you press a little too hard, you'll lose where the spot weld is. Sandpaper will highlight them for you great, then just center punch and drill out!

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item19bc45048c

Thats the sort of spot weld bit you want. I bought an 8mm Dormer one and I've not replaced it yet, eBay only seems to have 6.5mm Dormer bits at the moment though sadly.

Cheers Adam just ordered one of those drill bits of Ebay.

Nice decision on cutting the bins and stuff out mate, I'll be doing it next week.

Really wasn't sure if i should or not though! Keep up the good work

It was a no brainer for me really.. I'll have to make up some flat steel sections and spot weld them in, to support the overhanging seat edge. Seeing as I want to maybe retain my rear seats.