655 replies to this topic

[bcjames]

Me? I'd love to, time is the issue. I want to drop it off somewhere on a Monday, have a crap week of public transport, then pick it up on friday fully working and driving super!

[bcjames]

When the engine next comes out, which doesn't look to be too long from now, I think I'll need to repaint bits of the bulkhead. And buy new clutch hydraulics

[thebullet]

Got told that if i put pressure on my gearbox like I was going to change gear but I don't put my foot on the clutch, if it is the drop gears the noise will stop. And mine actually makes a louder noise. In all gears.

I hope mine is release bearing I really do.

Edited by thebullet, 04 February 2012 - 11:29 PM.

[bcjames]

Well the snow sort of spoiled todays plans. I didn't fancy taking the car out in it. I have tomorrow afternoon off, so I'll crack on then.

Anyway, the plan! I'm going to reroute the engine breathers in to a temporary catch tank, and blank off the breather inlet to the throttle body. This will let the engine breath as it already is, but will force the engine to take in fresh air via the intake to run. Hopefully, once the engine is running on fresh air and the ECU has adjusted itself, then the car will run normally. Having checked given the sensors the all clear, this does make sense!

With regard the leak down test, I'm not sure what to do now. It's not so bad that it needs sorting straight away, I'd rather do a proper job when I know theres an issue. The bodywork is surviving okay, so mechanicals can be prioritised at the moment. I'd love to keep it as a 1275 in original guise, and I've seen that Minispares have new MPi blocks, cranks and rods in a set. I'd need to add pistons to that, and transfer the other bits from my current engine, and I'd lose my engine number too, although it is to a brand new unit so no issue with the docs. The other option is to have my current engine rebuilt. That means time with the car off the road, and probably a 20thou overbore, purely for maintenance reasons, rather than a performance perspective. If I do that, I don't yet know who or where to get it done!

Too much to think about!

[thebullet]

How far are you from Southam? I have some work done at Southam Mini and Metro, brilliant people! very fair too.

[bcjames]

About an hour

I also have MED and MRA nearby, as well as Track, Road & Race, if dave takes this sort of thing on. And anyone else I've forgotten

From talking to a couple of places, everyone wants to make go faster Minis

[thebullet]

Well they have a RR tune too and Colin is always in Mini world/ Mini magazine! fantastic place.

Did you try your gear thing today too? putting pressure on it?

[bcjames]

No not yet, too much snow up against the garage door! I'll need the car out in the morning, so I'll give it a try then

[thebullet]

Cool :) I am fitting twin carbs to mine dispite the noise. I think I am mad personally.

Edited by thebullet, 05 February 2012 - 09:11 PM.

[bcjames]

i think you are too Fix the poor thing before trying to put more power through it!

[thebullet]

Haha, and then having to put it through its second rolling road session! haha.

Mine drives fine at the minute, only that rattle which I am now doubting is even a problem and just a general chatter that gearboxes have. That tests I did has swung it open now haha.

[bcjames]

I tried the gear rattle test on the way to work this morning. Sat at te traffic lights. Engine warm and at idle, I pushed the stick toward first without using the clutch. I stopped short of making anything crunch, but as soon as there was pressure on the stick, the rattle ceased.

[nev_payne]

The other option is to have my current engine rebuilt. That means time with the car off the road, and probably a 20thou overbore, purely for maintenance reasons, rather than a performance perspective. If I do that, I don't yet know who or where to get it done!

Pretty much what I had done to the letter. Oli from Hereford did this, and rebuilt the gearbox, totalled ~£800, that is pre-VAT rise mind.

I tried the gear rattle test on the way to work this morning. Sat at te traffic lights. Engine warm and at idle, I pushed the stick toward first without using the clutch. I stopped short of making anything crunch, but as soon as there was pressure on the stick, the rattle ceased.

Must have missed a post here - could you elaborate?

Edited by nev_payne, 06 February 2012 - 10:13 AM.

[thebullet]

I tried the gear rattle test on the way to work this morning. Sat at te traffic lights. Engine warm and at idle, I pushed the stick toward first without using the clutch. I stopped short of making anything crunch, but as soon as there was pressure on the stick, the rattle ceased.

That is the idle gear then, i am going to get petrol this morning, I will give mine another go. I am sure it will only make a louder noise.

[bcjames]

The other option is to have my current engine rebuilt. That means time with the car off the road, and probably a 20thou overbore, purely for maintenance reasons, rather than a performance perspective. If I do that, I don't yet know who or where to get it done!

Pretty much what I had done to the letter. Oli from Hereford did this, and rebuilt the gearbox, totalled ~£800, that is pre-VAT rise mind.

I tried the gear rattle test on the way to work this morning. Sat at te traffic lights. Engine warm and at idle, I pushed the stick toward first without using the clutch. I stopped short of making anything crunch, but as soon as there was pressure on the stick, the rattle ceased.

Must have missed a post here - could you elaborate?

I've already spent that just having the gearbox rebuilt With the rattle remaining, and the clutch hydraulics seemingly causing the fault with shifting, it seems to have been money wasted.

Mr Bullet, as below, suggested I try the gearstick test.

I tried the gear rattle test on the way to work this morning. Sat at te traffic lights. Engine warm and at idle, I pushed the stick toward first without using the clutch. I stopped short of making anything crunch, but as soon as there was pressure on the stick, the rattle ceased.

That is the idle gear then, i am going to get petrol this morning, I will give mine another go. I am sure it will only make a louder noise.

I'm confused as to what's what. Is the idler gear in the gearbox? I thought this test pointed toward the drop/transfer gears?

I only put a tiny bit of forward pressure on the stick, it tightened up whatever was rattling, and didn't initiate any further noises of pain from the box!