1006 replies to this topic

[minifcd]

Great work Graham. Nice slide hammer. I made a three legged puller to remove a stuborn flywheel one bank holiday weekend. 2 hours to make and 10 seconds to get flywheel off! I really enjoy working on gearboxes so can't wait to start on mine. I am determined to leave mine until the shell is ready for paint though, as I have no more room in the garage and am bound to loose something! All your gears look good so far. Hope the needle rollers are good inside the gears on mainshaft too.

[minimuk]

Graham, now a toolmaker too, better get the decorating going to keep the peace,...other then that, did you check both differential bearings? might need a parafin clean like Hugh's swivel hubs, or replace them, worth doing while at it.

[grahama]

Had a good inspect of all the bearings and cleaned them all with a degreaser. Then generously sprayed them with WD40 just to protect them till I rebuild it. Everything put in sealed bags to keep the moisture out, oil in and dirt out !!

Too late for the double roller bearing though, just my luck it has to be the most expensive bearing !! Better find it now than later though !

Graham

[hughJ]

Graham that's great!! I have never taken any gearbox apart before - motorbike or car - I've always chickened out. But you have the heart of a lion.

Hugh

[minimuk]

Had a good inspect of all the bearings and cleaned them all with a degreaser. Then generously sprayed them with WD40 just to protect them till I rebuild it. Everything put in sealed bags to keep the moisture out, oil in and dirt out !!

Too late for the double roller bearing though, just my luck it has to be the most expensive bearing !! Better find it now than later though !

Graham

90% it will be the double roller which is going wrong, your's will be the origional one, and yep £45 is a large chunk, but can't do without one,....

[grahama]

Hi,

Thanks for all the encouragement fellas, much appreciated.

Last stripping for a while, gearbox, back bedroom or for the wife !! I attacked the mainshaft today and the rest of the box internals, cleaned them and spent a frustrating couple of hours pushing plungers in!!

First the main shaft





First and third gears came off easily enough, thinnk they passed the inspection but am asking in technical just in case I missed something. Synchros for 3/4 and 1/2 were next, and I put a lovely sheet I had on my bed as a nipper over them to stop the ball bearings and springs flying everywhere. None lost so stripped them down, cleaned and reassembled.





Both looked fine as did the 2nd and 4th synchro sides but the 2nd gear had a chipped dog tooth.



I rang John at Guessworks up to have a chat about it as I didn't want to rebuild and have a crappy 2nd gear in the mix. He said it was ok to have one tooth chipped but all the rest are fine so should be fine. I also rang him up because I couldn',t for two hours, get the thrust washer out that holds the 2nd gear in place.



All the splines lined up but it wouldn't come out. John said clean it up and it will be fine if the tooth is ok, so that's what I did, degreased in situ and liberal WD40 to protect till I rebuild.



The thrust washer fot third gear came off much easier as there isn't as much play in the washer. Will have to have another go if the 2nd gear doesn't pass muster.

The balk rings looked fine but will replace them just to be thorough, but how do they look to you, worn or fine???



On to the box selector internal stuff and a crappy roll pin that I had to drift out. Carlos, another hour on this easy job !! Out it came and the shaft was next.







All cleaned up, marked as to which washers go with which bit and put away.



Just got to check the play on the selector forks and the case to clean up and paint and will order some parts for the rebuild if I can get some cash out of Jan !!

Hope you enjoyed,

Graham

Edited by grahama, 09 January 2012 - 08:35 PM.

[minimuk]

loving that job your doing now, especially on clean bedsheets,.......word of advise if I may,....check the inside of the ball/housing in gear selector rod(the long shiny one moving in and out gearbox), so this one is not worn or chipped inside, so ball does not getting stuck when changing gears, this does not help a smooth action.

Impressive marking those selector forks, I got it wrong the first time on mine, checking before and after pictures, I noticed it after engine was completely rebuild, I was very happy then,.........not

[minifcd]

I'm amazed, all your gears look in great condition. Apart from that one chip, all the dog teeth still have their points. The box must have had an easy life with a careful driver. Best to change the baulk rings just in case. Its the inside grooves you need to look at but unless the grooves are non existent, its not that easy to tell how worn the baulk rings are.

[Carlos W]

Did that pin not just drift straight out Graham?

[grahama]

Minimuk,

dou you mean inside the sleve as here ??




If so it is mint inside there, no nicks at all.

or inside the case where the assembly runs through??

Edited by grahama, 09 January 2012 - 09:30 PM.

[hughJ]

Graham this is super info - the close up photos are superb. It will be a great resource to others on the forum. We should thank you for time and care. I hope I won't ever have to do this - if I do I know where to refer to!

Hugh

[grahama]

Carlos, if I had a drift it would have done, lol, but as usual I had to make do as it was 7pm when I got round to doing it, screwdrivers, allen keys, more screwdrivers, you get the picture, but wasn't going to be beaten, amazing how much you swear in an hour !!

Hugh, you are too kind, but I've not got it back together yet !!!

Scott, there are no grooves left by the ball bearing, if that is what you mean. Yes looks like I have been lucky, all the gears and synchros are in a thread in the technical section for a once over, but Guessworks has not looked at them yet!!

Graham

Edited by grahama, 09 January 2012 - 10:38 PM.

[minimuk]

Minimuk,

dou you mean inside the sleve as here ??




If so it is mint inside there, no nicks at all.

or inside the case where the assembly runs through??

Yep that is the bit with the yellow arow pointing towards it, they can be worn if mint one less thing to worry about

[minifcd]

Hi Graham, by grooves, I mean if you look at the inside face of the baulk rings (you can just see them in your baulk ring photo) there are small horizontal grooves around the ring, in sections divided by the larger vertical notches (as looking at photo). I think the purpose is to gradually channel oil away through the grooves and out via the notches, as the baulk ring comes into contact with the cone on the gear, so as to smoothly synchronise the speeds of the sychro hub and gear, just before the dog teeth engage. I've not seen one completely worn right down but I would imagine if smooth the excess oil film wouldn't allow adequate speed matching in time and so the dog teeth would "crash" and "crunch" on changing gear.

That's my theory anyway.

[grahama]

Scott,

looked at my balk rings and they have sharp grooves none worn down, what do you think??





And looked at the selector pin, thought I was looking at the sleeve it runs through which has no grooves.





The pin has marks on where the ball bearing ran but they are not discernable as anything other than a shiny mark.

Tested the selector forks with thier synchro and the play in 1/2 selector is 0.45mm and 3/4 selector 0.2mm. Acording to Guessworks anything up to 1mm is ok so will be sticking with these. Cleaned the residue out of the case too today but forgot a pic. Am going to have a go at polishing it up and not painting just to have a go and if I'm not happy will paint it later.

Graham

Edited by grahama, 10 January 2012 - 06:41 PM.