145 replies to this topic

[mini_mad69]

im gonna say with that running in technique... thats a yes:P

That's quite a standard meathod of running in, beds the rings into the bores nicely.

Bad luck on it broken though.

[mike.]

All rebored engines should be run in hard really.

[GreaseMonkey]

What's happened?

[PhilipGCaldwell]

All rebored engines should be run in hard really

thought running in the engine properly was to set the mixture as lean sa possible then run it below 3000 revs for the first 500 miles then drop the oil and replace then for the next 500 miles run under 4000 revs, after 1000 miles get it rolling road tuned.

[CaptainBland08]

All rebored engines should be run in hard really

thought running in the engine properly was to set the mixture as lean sa possible then run it below 3000 revs for the first 500 miles then drop the oil and replace then for the next 500 miles run under 4000 revs, after 1000 miles get it rolling road tuned.

that was the impression i was under also:/

[davejf]

thought running in the engine properly was to set the mixture as lean sa possible then run it below 3000 revs for the first 500 miles then drop the oil and replace then for the next 500 miles run under 4000 revs, after 1000 miles get it rolling road tuned.

thats the way i did mine roughly and its still going strong over 15,000 miles later.
i always thought if the engine felt tight and didn't want to rev, which a new engine will, then you shouldn't rev it hard.
When i ran mine in i reved it till it felt tight, then backed off a bit. after another 50 - 100 miles it would then happily rev to the next 500 rpm no probs. and so on till it's run in.

Dave.

[PhilipGCaldwell]

the method i state is the way professional engine builders run their engines in on a rolling road setup

[Pauly]

The reason why people say to run engines in hard, is so you can get the cylinder pressure as high as possible so to push the rings up against the bores.

How I run mine in is take it easy for a while, then do a few mins of hard running in, then back off and go back to sensible driving. Hasn't blown up yet .

Good thread. Sounds like a nice engine, hope you get it fixed .

Edited by Pauly, 08 November 2010 - 07:31 PM.

[mike.]

A new engine shouldn't be stiff and not want to rev - If it is you've got a problem.

As above, the reason I believe engines should be ran in hard is to bed the piston rings into the bore properly. If you don't run the engine hard and put it under load they won't bed in properly and then possibly won't generate as much power.

When I say run it in hard, It doesn't necessarily mean rev the nuts off it. It just means to load the engine through the gears - Foot hard down in 3rd gear up a hill for example would be perfect for running the engine in.

[Racer_Pete]

okay enough techniques of running engines in please!

Well its not bad bad.. but it is quite bad if that makes sense. havent been on since then as i was so ******* of with the mini its been sat outside the garage for the last 2 weeks (not good espically with the weather and leaky sunroof - Monkey you know what i mean lol)

Ill just quickly explain what happened.....

Been driving the mini for about 100miles and the clutch started to go funny as in didnt want to select gears so initial thought is that the clutch needs to be adjusted as pretty much everything is brand new so adjusted the clutch which made it slightly better to go in gear, but soon came back to how it was after about 10miles of driving around town. It then got to the point of driving where you could literally not get it in any gear at all you could hear lots of funny noises from the clutch area sort of sounded like the plate wasn't engaging as you could hear it a metallic noise, so lucky we only went to the cinema about 5miles away from the garage and managed to limp it back there in 3rd gear, got back to the workshop and found there was no throwout... adjusted that and is still exactly the same... hmmmm not good!

So took the side wok of the engine to get to the clutch, took the diaphragm off... NOT GOOD! the actual bolt holding the flywheel to the crankshaft had near enough came out of the crankshaft with about threads holding it in all that was making it stay in its place was the diaphragm!!! *NOTE TO SELF DON'T USE AIR GUN ON JOBS LIKE THAT* took everything else off aswell, flywheel plate, backplate to see if there okay, was in good order and the crankshaft tail/thread was fine thank f**k! so bolted it all back together with a *torque wrench to the correct torque* put the wok back on and adjusted the clutch again.. fired it up... still exactly the same as before????!!!!!! no drive at all, wont go into gear or anything.

we couldn't understand still whats wrong with it, put the plate the correct way back in, and adjusted to the correct tolerances. so thought it must be something like the arm so changed that with a new one, as the old one was slightly worn, new clevis pin, checked the hydraulics, crank end-float which was fine, primary gear looked fine, but still the exact same!!! spent about 6hours taking it on and off and still didn't have a bloody clue what could have caused this, so then took the whole clutch assembly off again and checked on the press to see if the plate was disengaging on the press.. which it was. bolted it back on the mini again and still no drive. then took the starter out and pressed the clutch while looking through the starter hole and with a tiny electrical screw driver you could see/feel the plate disengaging when pressing the pedal. by this time we was really really confused but knew it must be drive train issue and couldn't be asked with it anymore so put it outside as the engine needed to come out to find the problem.

so this Saturday i got the enthusiasm to take the engine out and see whats wrong with it, took it out and all the clutch assembly then took the primary gear casing off, couldn't see anything obvious at first.... then took the primary gear off........................ OUCH! the inner bush of the primary has entirely been eaten away no bush at all, so somehow it must have picked up on the primary and is now scrap, the crank is fine luckily with very slight marking. i don't have a clue how this has happend as everything felt fine when putting it together with the correct tolerances, maybe it was the actual primary gear? so might just stick a set of helical drops on for now if i find a set, or just buy another primary from minispares, but i really cant see how it could only last less than 100miles?! ill try and get a picture of it later in the week, on a brighter note ive just started a new job at a Bentley and Rolls Royce specialist about 1minute walk from me so can spend even more money on the mini (not sure if thats a good or bad thing )

[leaky]

Well at least you've now found out whats up with it. Hope you get it fixed. This is one of my favorite cars on the forum.

[charie t]

O/T does that have a mr wilson on the log book?
hope you get it sorted out soon it looked like tidy build

[Racer_Pete]

cheers lads, dont have a clue on the mgb.

Going to change the colour scheme on it soon, still ignition blue but with a metallic gray roof & new group 2 arches, as lowering the mini too much the arches rub like a git, and are in need of new ones (mg xpower gray) as im getting a little bored of the black, but that will be in January, and maybe exposed carbon bumpers

[leaky]

cheers lads, dont have a clue on the mgb.

Going to change the colour scheme on it soon, still ignition blue but with a metallic gray roof & new group 2 arches, as lowering the mini too much the arches rub like a git, and are in need of new ones (mg xpower gray) as im getting a little bored of the black, but that will be in January, and maybe exposed carbon bumpers

Sounds good mate. You gonna get carbon over riders as well? O yea and if you fancy flogging your chrome bumpers and over rides I may be interested .

[Turbo Phil]

Shame you've had those problems, but at least you found out what was wrong. Hope you get it sorted mate.