277 replies to this topic

[jagman.2003]

That colour is looking great. Will be great to see it with all the shiny bits on.

[pat222]

top project just read it all makes me want go work on mine now

[minimuk]

That colour is looking great. Will be great to see it with all the shiny bits on.

thanks, yep,.......SHINY BIT'S........with boot and bonnet and new wheels even better.....
managed to put the wind-up windows in today, after a good clean and greasing up, a bit stiff winding it up but that will get better.

Further, passenger-side lock cleaned with parafin, greased mechanism and on it went, and door handle too, driverside tomorrow.
Piccies tomorrow, still no engine isn't it!!

[minimuk]

top project just read it all makes me want go work on mine now

Glad to hear, the bug is working!!

[minimuk]

little update from today, I managed to put door closure mechanism back in and new outer and inner moulding, door-handles! I must admit, the top latch from the door panel needed a bit tweeking to make sure the rubber from the moulding sits tight against the glass but other than that, happy wiv doors.

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front and rear windows next

Edited by minimuk, 14 April 2011 - 03:53 PM.

[minimuk]

Started the day with putting the lower dash in with the switches at the same time, I must say putting new in old never fits from the moment go. The switch plate has two brackets they seemed to be shorter then when I took them out,...of course it is the new lower dash sticking out, as I am a bit of an old man, it is not easy laying down on your back over the cross member, feet on the rear bench, and head under dash, once in that position I lost a NUT, all out again and start again. After tweaking for 1 hour it was all done.

Cleaned up and washed the front and rear screen, ready for their new seals. As it was a nice day I sat in the garden waiting for those seals, cleaning the steering cowl, and the fresh air-vent pipes. Finally the front and rear window seals arrived; UPS van drove up at 4.30pm, took out the prezzies and managed to put in the rear screen, but still need to secure the seal with the chrome strip.

I never done a window before so it took a bit time, I put the seal over the lip first, noting that the lining was to visible took off the seal, I cut that back and started again, fresh rubber sometimes makes it more difficult, I then wet the inner-groove with a washing-up liquid solution, so when putting in the window it should slide in better and able to re-adjust, starting in one corner and leaver the seal over the glass bit by bit, not using any tools but just my thumbs. it worked but,...... no strength left in me thumbs for the front screen.
If anyone of you has a better method for that job can you let me know please!!

Here are a few piccies and note the lower dash thought the rear windscreen.
Before the seal, noted the surplus lining

seal in for first time

whehey glass in, and the lower dash through the window, well happy

[minimuk]

Not many comments I am getting here!!!
Today is the front window fitting and the chrome filler rear and front, not bad going, started at 3pm finished at 6pm, I leave the pictures do the talking.

Front window fitting,



window in with chrome filler ,just waxed the car a bit
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Rear window with chrome filler


looking good!!!


Bootlid, bonnet and engine next

[minimuk]

Wright you all, I am getting a bit confused here, can anyone of you advise me what kinda grill to put on the front, 8 Slat grill internal/external locking or a 11 Slat grill internal/external locking. Baring in mind I will have Chrome wheel arches.

Thank you

Edited by minimuk, 22 April 2011 - 08:27 PM.

[minimuk]

It caught my eye and realised that I put the chrome lock-strip wrong so I did it again with the beginning and end at the top of the window. it would not have made any difference in a way, but it was just not right to leave it like that.


looking better this way
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Will do the rear window tomorrow.
Happy Easter to you all!!

[hughJ]

The glass really gives it a finished look. Really nice.

Hugh

[STREET TWEAKS]

Hi mate i have got the same boot floor replacemant to do on my car nice to see sum pics was it easy to do mate ? as i have never do one before

hi, there are more pictures of the transformation, but a few pointers here,

1) make sure you make measurements of the bootlid opening, horizontal, diagonal etc and write it down,nd make a piccie from all the cables(easyer for later when re-assembling.
2)the hight of the top of the wheelarches, distance between arches.
3) If your rear seats are fine, carry on with boot, if not do those first and use thicker panels ie. 1.2-1.5mm, this will last longer as it will be hidden above the subby after.
4)have a few cuppas
5)make sure you re-measure when tacking panels in, I also tend to use new valence as a guide to make sure, and even the bootlid.
6) when seam welding after all is tacked in right position and have 10mm overlap on panels, weld inside first and when mini on its side do the belly too.
7) grind back and zinc prime the lot, next day seam-seal and prime again,
8) ready for stone chip spray or filling etc.

If you keep to that, you'll get there, This was my first boot aswell, and made sure whatever I did, I measured the lot again. Don't want to end up having a out of line car, and lets face it, the back-end and front end need to look 100%.

Hope this helps, good luck.

Hi mate got round to starting the boot floor today did you remove the battery tray or just peal it open ? 2nd where the sub frame bolts go by the wheel arch on the under side of the car mine as 3 plate all welded together did you just cut them out and replace then later or keep them ?

[minimuk]

The glass really gives it a finished look. Really nice.

Hugh

Thanks Hugh, getting there I hope to finish the car within 1 month more shiny things to come. Being my first car I am well happy with the result sofar.

Edited by minimuk, 23 April 2011 - 09:35 PM.

[minimuk]

Hi mate i have got the same boot floor replacemant to do on my car nice to see sum pics was it easy to do mate ? as i have never do one before

hi, there are more pictures of the transformation, but a few pointers here,

1) make sure you make measurements of the bootlid opening, horizontal, diagonal etc and write it down,nd make a piccie from all the cables(easyer for later when re-assembling.
2)the hight of the top of the wheelarches, distance between arches.
3) If your rear seats are fine, carry on with boot, if not do those first and use thicker panels ie. 1.2-1.5mm, this will last longer as it will be hidden above the subby after.
4)have a few cuppas
5)make sure you re-measure when tacking panels in, I also tend to use new valence as a guide to make sure, and even the bootlid.
6) when seam welding after all is tacked in right position and have 10mm overlap on panels, weld inside first and when mini on its side do the belly too.
7) grind back and zinc prime the lot, next day seam-seal and prime again,
8) ready for stone chip spray or filling etc.

If you keep to that, you'll get there, This was my first boot aswell, and made sure whatever I did, I measured the lot again. Don't want to end up having a out of line car, and lets face it, the back-end and front end need to look 100%.

Hope this helps, good luck.

Hi mate got round to starting the boot floor today did you remove the battery tray or just peal it open ? 2nd where the sub frame bolts go by the wheel arch on the under side of the car mine as 3 plate all welded together did you just cut them out and replace then later or keep them ?

Hi, just checked your progress, looking good and you working fast, don't go to fast though,
got round to starting the boot floor today did you remove the battery tray or just peal it open
pending how good the old panel is surrounding the battery tray, by the looks of the 1 picture on your tread you might aswell drill out the spotwelds with a 4/5mm drill bit, then loosen the lip of the tray away from the old panel so the new rear repair panel can wedge underneath. when cutting the full width of the floor panel, N/S to O/S, make sure you have a 10mm overlap from old over new panel,....you got my drift?
use an Edge Setter to crimp a 10mm ledge and drill a few 3mm holes through the ledge and old panel edge and clamp with either cleopins or temporarely put in some rivits to keep it in the wright and correct position, (magnets are never secure enough), to make 100% sure, clamp the new rear valance,the new rear repair panel to the lower rear panel and line up all the holes for the bumper. if all good, drill 4mm holes every 30mm along the ledge you made through both panels and plug weld those, seamweld the edge and sand it smooth after,when working underneath the boot seamweld along the edge too and sand it smooth after.Prime it and seamseal it.
where the sub frame bolts go by the wheel arch on the under side of the car mine as 3 plate all welded together did you just cut them out and replace then later or keep them ?
I would cut it all out as you are doing that anyway with replacing the back end of the floor panel, the second and third layer isor was part of the REAR VALANCE CLOSING AND SUBFRAME MOUNT PANEL,..L/H ALA8623 ..or R/H ALA5528.
I hope this helps any more questions let me know

As it happens, if you check the tread of "GRAHAMA" he is just working on the boot too, some good work there, he is cutting out the bad bits and makes small repair pieces himself, it all depens how bad you boot end floor panel is. If it is my choise I would cut off the lot as the rust-virus is never far away with old panels. If in doubt...cut it out!

Good Luck

Edited by minimuk, 23 April 2011 - 11:00 PM.

[STREET TWEAKS]

Thanks for the help iam going to have a go at it again today, but i know i will have to cut off the lip were the boot hinges go as that is full af rust but i can make that lip myself and put it back on . I will hopefuley post sum pics later , big thanks with all the help wayne

[minimuk]

Thanks for the help iam going to have a go at it again today, but i know i will have to cut off the lip were the boot hinges go as that is full af rust but i can make that lip myself and put it back on . I will hopefuley post sum pics later , big thanks with all the help wayne

Wayne, make sure you measure the width between the rear lights and diagonal in the boot-lid cut out from the rear boot panel before you cut the old lip off!! 2mm out and your bootlid won't fit proparly again after!

Good luck, will check those pictures when you post them
Michel