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998 Fast Road Build.


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#61 new_zealand _minis

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 05:25 AM

thats from the factory balancing .. no action needed . :)

#62 firefox

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 09:12 AM

Yeah as above bud that engine you have i think has been worked on before hence the flat top pistons and balanced crank
and as you have bought a head for it, the past owner i think must have had a modified head and removed it.

#63 tommc92

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 10:48 AM

what size overbore are you having? I have a set of +040" flat top pistons which I don't need :)

#64 Brookesy

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 01:39 PM

Phew thank god for that :P yeah there are few nuts and bolts missing too so its definatly been played with before. Thanks for clearing the crank issue up. I have however found chips on the (forgot name) bottom cog in the transmission casing. Will put a pic up later. It's only two teeth but a pretty hefty chunk :(
I'm still thinking what size to rebore. Thinking +60 at the mo but if I change my mind ill give you a shout:) thanks!

#65 Brookesy

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 04:10 PM

Haven't had a chance to do a huge amount the last few days, just some more cleaning and contacting machine shops.

This is the Chunk out of one of the teeth, other chunk is a few teeth round similar size.
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Nice clean rocker cover.
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and block and head
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Quick question also. To remover the oil feed pipe so i can refit a central pickup. Do i have to remover the cogs or is there a way you can get it out a bit easier?
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Best quote ive got so far is this..
If you supply me with an A+ block I can bore block to +60, and supply high compression slipper pistons, press pistons on con rods and acid clean your block painted ready for rebuilding - £420 including VAT.

If you supply me with a cylinder head I can port it, put lead free inserts in, bullet type valve guides, hardened valve springs, racing type valves supplied (33.3 inlet and 29.4 exhaust), painted and skimmed ready to fit onto your engine - £435 including VAT.

Ideally i woud have liked to have bought my own stuff and fitted as much as possible but with it being my first build, having someone who knows what they are doing getting the CR e.t.c all sorted out would be a better bet. even if it does cost me abit more :S No rush so got plenty of time to decide :)

#66 tommc92

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 04:39 PM

If you supply me with a cylinder head I can port it, put lead free inserts in, bullet type valve guides, hardened valve springs, racing type valves supplied (33.3 inlet and 29.4 exhaust), painted and skimmed ready to fit onto your engine - £435 including VAT.


I got pretty much exactly the same spec head for £95 O_O

#67 firefox

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 04:42 PM

Hi bud i paid about £180 for pistons from mini spares i had the block bored to +20 thou they cleaned the block, press fitted the pistons,and fitted them in the block, re-ground the crakshaft journels +20 all for £200 , the head i had checked and skimmed cost me £40 from another shop before i had the engine done dont know if this is any help

Edited by firefox, 27 November 2011 - 04:53 PM.


#68 firefox

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 05:00 PM

http://www.jonspeedr...=14479&cID=2090

Stage 2 cylinder head

Cooperman should put you right on the oil pick up PM him

Edited by firefox, 27 November 2011 - 05:04 PM.


#69 twrminisport

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 06:44 PM

Looking good man, talk to MED Engineering aswell

Jesus

#70 Brookesy

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 07:21 PM

Ah ok. I thought they were a bit pricey but got a similar price quote from slark race aswell. Was looking somewhere localish due to postage/travel costs. Will have a price up of different bits and see what prices they do if I suplly pistons e.t.c.
Will have a gander at those places tonight :)

#71 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 08:50 PM

Hi. the oil pick up pipe thingy...First you need to undo the three small bolts that hold the main shaft roller bearing in.

Posted Image

once you have that bit off (look out for the shims) you need to remove the small plate that locks the lay shaft and reverse gear shaft in.

Once that out you can push the lay shaft out and remove the laygear. the old oil pipe will come out with the laygear. then you can fit the center oil pick up and bung it all back together. Watch out for the shims at both ends of the laygear.

Posted Image

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you can see the bolts that need to be undone to get the old oil pipe out...its a bit of a faff to get the new oil pick up pipe fitted but the technique I used was to sort of roll the laygear in with the pipe, hope this makes sense!

Oh and your input gear is buggered...you need a new one..

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 27 November 2011 - 09:01 PM.


#72 Brookesy

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 09:29 PM

Cheers Andy! How many pics of your engine being stripped/built do you have?! Lol
Thanks for the info. Yeah got one saved in a (rather large) shopping basket :/

#73 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 10:15 PM

I have hundreds of photos LOL...my memory is rubbish so its easyer to take pictures of stuff...I just need to remember to look at them..Good luck with your build.

#74 Brookesy

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 10:31 PM

woooooooow! How much for an input gear?!?!

http://www.minispare...id=33850&title=

Ouch

#75 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 27 November 2011 - 11:04 PM

I think ive got a couple lying around...Pm me if your interested. Im only after beer money!!




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