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Engine Strip Down And Rebuild With Lots Of Confusion :d


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#76 jameslearwood

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 06:12 PM

Posted Image pitted piston after some tender loving wet dry

Posted Image the original thermostat housing all shiny again

Posted Image weird grommet any suggestions please
Posted Image

#77 jameslearwood

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 06:14 PM

Posted Image what timing chain is this?

#78 PhilipGCaldwell

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 09:01 PM

simplex timing chain, presume you have a tensioner aswell which will probably need changing. http://www.minispare...pid=37878=
nice feet!

Edited by PhilipGCaldwell, 06 January 2012 - 09:05 PM.


#79 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 09:13 PM

My high spec head and engine has the double springs because they came with the cam kit. My other 1380..possibly the one you have been looking at has the cooper S double valve springs because im going to thrash the nuts off it, and even although its only an mg metro cam, im pretty sure ill be reving to 6500 most of the time. I just thougt they might help reduce any valve bounce. Its got a well ported head so im confident it will breath ok.

Replaceing the core plugs is not nesessary. but id never done it before and thought. Why not! Cheep as chips and dead easy.

#80 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 09:26 PM

Cam timing...

Another shameless plug.... Sorry..

http://www.theminifo...i-how-its-done/

You wont really need to worry about this if you are runing a standard cam, just set it dot to dot. But its nice to do the timing anyway just so as you know its right.

Bare foot engine building eh! you might start a new trend... :proud:

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 06 January 2012 - 09:28 PM.


#81 PhilipGCaldwell

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 10:06 PM

barefoot building, just dont knock the cylinder head on your toe!!

#82 jameslearwood

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 10:07 PM

Hahaha spotted that after i uploaded already got cleaned up and just darted back into the garage to take a couple of photos and find that grommet thingy, i wouldnt recommend it concrete floors are bloody cold and leave your feet hacky black lol and could imagine some pain if you dropped a spanner :X

Thats great cheers would be a crime to put that chain back in so i suppose i'll have to get a duplex one :D

Yeah its standard cam read a few threads about timing and cant get my head around it fully but get the gist of it, but i think i would have to read it while doing it, to understand it so will give it a bash dont have one of them fancy dpi things you use are they expensive? think i'll just use woodruff keys somehow :ohno:

#83 PhilipGCaldwell

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 10:11 PM

duplex really isnt necessary on a standard road engine IMHO, I only put one on mine because a friend gave me it for free

I think Andy has demonstrated on his build thread that dot to dot is perfectly ok for a road engine, saves buying a DTI guage and a magnetic base and 360degree protractor

#84 PhilipGCaldwell

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 10:13 PM

alao woodruff keys are used to offset the timing to get it spot on if a vernier timing gear isnt being used, just use the standard key and dot to sot it

#85 jameslearwood

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 10:29 PM

:X told you i didn't get my head around it lol

i am thinking about the vernier duplex i know its not necessary but im doing minor tweak here and there slowly building it up with my confidence and money willing.

how does it affect the timing process easier or harder?

#86 PhilipGCaldwell

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 10:47 PM

with a vernier you can get the timing spot on perfect, but like we say, with a road engine it just isnt necessary, put the money towards a lightened flywheel or new cam

#87 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 09:58 AM

I agree with Philip, spend your hard earned on getting the head ported a bit, or a decent LCB, or lightened fly. the best way to gain power is to let the engine breath, so getting the mixture in more efficiently, and then getting it out correctly is the way to go. once this has been done all the other mods will start to work.

#88 Artful Dodger

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 10:28 AM

get the engine breathing properly before you bother with lightening stuff. for example get a good inlet manifold, and LCB then get some headwork done. matching the manifolds to the ports and opening up the chambers etc. lightening engine components is good because it means that the engine does not loose as much power trying to turn all of the heavy components. there is no point lightening them if it still is running on std carb and manifold etc.

balance them, this makes the engine run easier and not vibrate:)

good build! looks like its going to be a nice engine when you are done:)

#89 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 10:53 AM

already done the standard stage one set up with an LCB maniflow exhaust, after market inlet manifold, HIF44 carb and K+N cone filter.

opening up the chambers is that what is in vizards guide about making them larger.

balancing?

was going to do the cam and head upgrade the next time around..

cheers guys just thought single timing chain is meant to be replaced so thought i may as well upgrade now

#90 Artful Dodger

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 11:35 AM

yup D.V is correct.

you would find a great advantage in balancing the complete bottom end. i had my bottom end ( crank, flywheel and clutch plate) balanced by a company called iva searle. it helps the engine rev higher and be more efficient. also you could go to the extent i have and balance the con rods.

ie making them all weigh exactly the same. i also balanced the rods end for end but this probably wouldn't be needed.

also i would put in a duplex timing set. may as well do it now! just remember to countersink the screw holes on the end plate! i havnt got a pic of where you would need to countersink but maybe andy could help you out here 8)

Edited by MiniclubmanGT, 07 January 2012 - 11:36 AM.





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