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Engine Strip Down And Rebuild With Lots Of Confusion :d


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#46 PhilipGCaldwell

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Posted 29 December 2011 - 08:42 PM

usually £30 for a head skim, £30 for block, plus VAT aswell, cam bearings £60 (but that includes them supplying the cam bearings)

#47 Ethel

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 01:16 AM

A reputable machine shop ought to be pretty well clued up on rings & shell bearings, there's every chance they'll come from the same place that supplies the Mini specialists. I wouldn't clean a gearbox assembled as there are a few bearings that might not get re oiled, such as the needle rollers in the layshaft. It isn't that hard to strip the box down & do a thorough job, I think Guessworks has a guide on his site.

#48 jameslearwood

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 12:09 PM

That's great thank you will have a look for a machinist in the new year

#49 jameslearwood

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:28 AM

Well spent several hours stripping the paint down cleaning the block and head.
Can't wait to get it to the machinist and re painted :D

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The gearbox

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#50 jameslearwood

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:31 AM

On the head there three recessed plugs that look pretty much the same as the oil plugs on the block are these the water plugs on the head?
one at each end and one in the midlle on the right hand side?

#51 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 11:30 AM

The dog teath on second gear look a bit worn, might just be the angle of the picture though..Did it crunch when changing from 3rd to 2nd sometimes? The rest of it looks pretty good. By the condition of the main bearing nut and lock tabs, I would say its never been apart before.

#52 mattw92

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 12:28 PM

this is going to be helpful to me, i might just have to follow this threat im trying to do the same :P

#53 jameslearwood

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 05:37 PM

Which one is the second gear. Yeah I don't think it's ever been stripped or serviced before I got it which is good in a way as I know there hasn't been any botch job.
Have a look at thread stupid dumb question great thread

#54 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 08:10 PM

Yeah Firefox made a good job of his build with the help of Uncle Cooperman...and one or two others...

From the big nut and final drive gear in your picture the gearbox goes 1st to 4th..the dog gears are the smaller notchy looking teeth...so its the second set of notchy's im talking about..they should be quite pointy on the edge...but because second gear gets a bit of a hammering in a mini the teeth sometimes get rounded on the ends due to the baulk ring in the synchro hub not.... errr.....synchronising!! the speeds of the hub and dog teeth...Sorry about the descriptions...Im sure Guesworks would be able to explain it better..If you want to strip the box then my project page gives a step by step build guide...I think Guesworks has a guide in the FAQ section...Almost as good as mine!!...KIDDING..really John is the forum gearbox Guru..

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 03 January 2012 - 08:12 PM.


#55 jameslearwood

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 05:10 PM

Thought it was Firefox my mind went blank, his is a superb thread now i've done half of it and went back and read it everything makes sense lol.

Well engine is now in the safe hands of Northern rebore who had an immaculate Austin healey sprite frog.

Getting head and block skimmed, crank polished new bearings including cam (as there was excessive wear) so happy i have reached this stage.
On way back made a stop off at Bowmans Motor factors who as it turns out can fully stock all Mini body parts which could come in handy, then AV taylors for loctite, hylomar, rtv sealant and some Millers classic oil and wynns oil additive happy days just a trip left to B+Q to get some funky metal paint for the engine :D

Two concerns (pics to follow) discovered some damage on one of the pistons engineering man says it should file out so i have some cleaning to do but the surprising concern is the three plugs on the head i have three steel plugs which are slightly recessed he reckons they should be brass and flush with the head?
so reckons it could be an issue with compression but appears to have been fine so do i leave it or ask him to fabricate a replacement? Is this standard or from someone playing.

#56 jameslearwood

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 05:26 PM

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#57 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 06:59 PM

Those plugs it the head are not inside the compression area so no need to worry on that count. Thet are normally brass and It looks like someone has removed them in the past for some reason...but if you get the head pressure tested while its in for a skim, and they dont leak, I would leave well alone. The piston in the picture looks pitted. What size are your pistons? Ive got a collection of pistons in really good condition I could send to you!! High comp, med comp, Low comp, overbored...loads!!

Ive just read back a few pages and your pistons are std 1275..Ive got a nice set of high comp pistons from an MG metro and a set of new rings to match...PM me if you are interested..

Edited by AndyMiniMad., 04 January 2012 - 07:07 PM.


#58 jameslearwood

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 02:53 PM

Cheers andy pm'd it is all going to depend on how much is left after the engineer.

Can these pistons just be straight swapped with my exsisting ones bearing in mind already getting new bearings and the bores and crank honed and polished up for the std pistons?

Decided im leaving the gearbox well alone the gears look in good nick and dont have time or funds that can be the next project, one concern is i did have a leak from somewhere im guessing where the gear selector rod enters can the box with the diff and the one with the speedo just be seperated so i can replace the gaskets?

#59 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 04:01 PM

Yes the speedo housing comes off and the the diff housing comes away with out having to take the gearbox apart. the diff housing should not have any gaskest to worry about though. They are so well machined to match the box that gaskest were not required. just use a smear of hylomar when refitting and all will be fine. The sellector rod is the usual culprit for leaks, and minispares do a leak fix kit for around a fiver, money well spent...
To get the diff housing off you first need to remove the two side plates thet the pot joints slide into. Five small bolts each..then you can undo the four big bolts and three smaller ones on the diff housing. watch out for the spring and ball bearing when removeing the side plate on the drivers side and the preload shims when removeing the other side.

take a look at this if you like..

#60 jameslearwood

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 04:19 PM

Thats a great guide and yeah im not doing that way out of my league at the moment lol
quick fix kit i like the sound of that :D cheers




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