
Engine Strip Down And Rebuild With Lots Of Confusion :d
#46
Posted 29 December 2011 - 08:42 PM
#47
Posted 30 December 2011 - 01:16 AM
#48
Posted 30 December 2011 - 12:09 PM
#49
Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:28 AM
Can't wait to get it to the machinist and re painted






The gearbox



#50
Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:31 AM
one at each end and one in the midlle on the right hand side?
#51
Posted 03 January 2012 - 11:30 AM
#52
Posted 03 January 2012 - 12:28 PM

#53
Posted 03 January 2012 - 05:37 PM
Have a look at thread stupid dumb question great thread
#54
Posted 03 January 2012 - 08:10 PM
From the big nut and final drive gear in your picture the gearbox goes 1st to 4th..the dog gears are the smaller notchy looking teeth...so its the second set of notchy's im talking about..they should be quite pointy on the edge...but because second gear gets a bit of a hammering in a mini the teeth sometimes get rounded on the ends due to the baulk ring in the synchro hub not.... errr.....synchronising!! the speeds of the hub and dog teeth...Sorry about the descriptions...Im sure Guesworks would be able to explain it better..If you want to strip the box then my project page gives a step by step build guide...I think Guesworks has a guide in the FAQ section...Almost as good as mine!!...KIDDING..really John is the forum gearbox Guru..
Edited by AndyMiniMad., 03 January 2012 - 08:12 PM.
#55
Posted 04 January 2012 - 05:10 PM
Well engine is now in the safe hands of Northern rebore who had an immaculate Austin healey sprite frog.
Getting head and block skimmed, crank polished new bearings including cam (as there was excessive wear) so happy i have reached this stage.
On way back made a stop off at Bowmans Motor factors who as it turns out can fully stock all Mini body parts which could come in handy, then AV taylors for loctite, hylomar, rtv sealant and some Millers classic oil and wynns oil additive happy days just a trip left to B+Q to get some funky metal paint for the engine

Two concerns (pics to follow) discovered some damage on one of the pistons engineering man says it should file out so i have some cleaning to do but the surprising concern is the three plugs on the head i have three steel plugs which are slightly recessed he reckons they should be brass and flush with the head?
so reckons it could be an issue with compression but appears to have been fine so do i leave it or ask him to fabricate a replacement? Is this standard or from someone playing.
#56
Posted 04 January 2012 - 05:26 PM



#57
Posted 04 January 2012 - 06:59 PM
Ive just read back a few pages and your pistons are std 1275..Ive got a nice set of high comp pistons from an MG metro and a set of new rings to match...PM me if you are interested..
Edited by AndyMiniMad., 04 January 2012 - 07:07 PM.
#58
Posted 05 January 2012 - 02:53 PM
Can these pistons just be straight swapped with my exsisting ones bearing in mind already getting new bearings and the bores and crank honed and polished up for the std pistons?
Decided im leaving the gearbox well alone the gears look in good nick and dont have time or funds that can be the next project, one concern is i did have a leak from somewhere im guessing where the gear selector rod enters can the box with the diff and the one with the speedo just be seperated so i can replace the gaskets?
#59
Posted 05 January 2012 - 04:01 PM
To get the diff housing off you first need to remove the two side plates thet the pot joints slide into. Five small bolts each..then you can undo the four big bolts and three smaller ones on the diff housing. watch out for the spring and ball bearing when removeing the side plate on the drivers side and the preload shims when removeing the other side.
take a look at this if you like..
#60
Posted 05 January 2012 - 04:19 PM
quick fix kit i like the sound of that

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