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Engine Strip Down And Rebuild With Lots Of Confusion :d


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#91 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 11:53 AM

that was my thought process pointless putting that chain back in and pointless spending money on something i will upgrade later so may as well future proof.

Balancing that is mental makes total sense funny how its the simple things bet that cost a few quid take it thats whole new parts going in?

countersink screw holes right will remember that one.

Mini spares i have always found there site a bit annoying to find stuff mainly because their product range is so vast which is a good thing don't get me wrong, for the first time i decided to ring up gave them the product codes on stuff i found and just asked for the rest brilliant service, plus totally forgot to ask for exhaust valve oil seal rang up today added to order no problems happy days. I dont get why they are not in the head gasket set though.

fingers crossed get the engine back monday and parts arrive tuesday so i can begin painting mon night, tuesday then its all assembly woohoo.

off to give the gearbox casing another scrub. anyone have any suggestions on the rubber seal off the oil filter housing?

#92 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 02:28 PM

figured the grommet thing out is of the metal oil union piping on both sides just gives the pipe a snug fit i guess.

#93 PhilipGCaldwell

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 05:25 PM

If you fit the duplex, aswell as doing the countersinking, modify the timing chain cover with a hammer as the duplex chain rubs, I know from experience!

#94 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 05:50 PM

righto cheers phil.

so had a bit clean down of gearbox and clutch housing two vital bits of kit that have made live so much easier have been my wet and dry. also wire brush set for the drill
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#95 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 05:52 PM

so as part of housing i noticed this pin took it out but didn't make a note of it due to my cleaning vigor is this the right place?
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#96 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 05:54 PM

i am guessing these are bearings how do they come out so i can clean behind and relube

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#97 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 05:54 PM

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does this come apart or is it happy being left alone?

#98 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 05:56 PM

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last one..
for today at least is this wear damage and should it be replaced?

#99 jameslearwood

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 06:04 PM

Totally forgot sorry i lied one more photo plus rant

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so cleaning down the housing looking at this damage thinking which ham fisted plonker has done that when changing the clutch....
i then realise isn't that the starter motor slot ohhh is that where i put various metal objects to lock the flywheel errmm crap

and yes i know the bearings make an excellent locking tool but didn't have one and i didn't want to buy one if i was getting a free one soon so that was another error in my ham fisted flywheel removal virtually made every mistake possible i've cleaned it up now so it should be okay right?

#100 grahama

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 09:59 PM

Have you split the fuel pump?? Thought it was a.sealed unit but would like to inspect the filter inside mine. Do they just unbolt??

#101 Artful Dodger

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 11:06 PM

when you get the bottom end balenced replace any worn parts obviously, but no apart from new bearings all round it shouldnt require any new parts! :)

and the casing.. hmm looks okay. that is the starter motor hole isntit~???

#102 jameslearwood

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 12:33 AM

Yeah clubman thats what i thought so how do you balance the weights dont get that bit surely you would have to install new parts to match up weights.

grahama yeah you can split the fuel pump depends on the model mine is out of the 1993 mini and very simple older ones not so haynes manual explains it.

on mine you need to mark where the top and bottom halves meet to realign on assembly then unscrew the six screws.

bottom half will have pump unit and diaphragm, the top bit has the filter and has a black plastic cover which gently levers out as it is a push fit there is an o-ring inside which goes on top of the filter inlet side if i remember rightly this can only go back on one way due to sizing of the inlet and outlet holes

bottom half is a little bit of a pain i put the unit in a vice and then placed an adjustable clamp on the metal disc on the inside and tightened up thus depressing the pump which allows you to punch out the pin securing the lever with this out carefully release the clamp then it will all come apart careful as it is all spring loaded.

on the inside below the diaphragm there is a rubber seal with a metal cover this should be replaced but mine was in superb condition so i refitted just take care especially with seals and the diaphragm use your sense on whether it is damaged or not.

reassembly i just did the opposite viced it up and clamped the diapragm up again then lined up the spring and popped the pin back through the lever then you need to oil the spindle where it meets the lever arm.

to test you have done it right put your finger over the input hose and pump the lever you should feel suction

it all depends on the model fuel pump you have dont forget to replace the gaskets and spacer block when reattching to the block if it is the same model as mine was slightly later to haynes i will happily redo and take more photos i hope this makes sense

#103 PhilipGCaldwell

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 02:20 AM

to balance it all, get the crank and clutch assembly done, the balance the con rods seperatley ie, make them all weigh the same?Im not sure, I only got my crank and clutch balanced

#104 jameslearwood

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 11:25 AM

interesting could be something to look into in the future

cheers

#105 jameslearwood

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 01:27 PM

started a seperate thread for the clutch http://www.theminifo...wn-and-replace/




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