97 replies to this topic

[Danthefestaman]

I should be going to Santa Pod as its only 40mins from me!

Is yours on Drums all round then? My next task after the engine and gearbox is to get a subframe with a "s" setup in it as i want 10" wheels.

My last one was a standard 998 and it was a rev it lots and go nowhere (still was my first car and was great), I then put a metro turbo in it but i couldnt get it right as i was to young to figure stuff out so i sold it! My friend 1400 Mini Speed was madness, would out run an Astra GTE to a point was so fast but wouldnt handle. Im well up for the small bore as its something you dont really see! As long as it does about 100mph thats good enough.

Did anyone see the Goodwood thing that was on TV where the Mini beat the mustangsand so on???

[oltonlad]

yeah, mines still on drums at the mo, my engine will pull 100mph (just) as its geared for acceleration rather than top speed, 100mph in my mini would be 6300rpm, if you put a 3.44:1 diff in your engine it should pull 100mph at just over 6000rpm.

[Danthefestaman]

Gearing will be something i will look into once the engine spec is done! I love to have a car that has a nice ratio so that you know when you get to a bend you can drop it a gear and it wont be screaming and it wont bog down.

I just sold my last project which was anearly mk2 xr2 and it had a perfect gearbox in it whereas so of my previous xr2's were rubbish because they were later economy versions.

So the gearbox in your car not only helps it accelerate quickly but also helps it slow down when the brakes are running out of steam! It will make it a different car again when you get some brakes. On my last mini i brought the Ferodo power stop brake kit which was drilled discs (of an odd brand) and a set of ferodo pads. They were great but 8.4 not "s" set-up. Maybe your girlfriend would be so good as to get you somee brakes as a prezzie!!

[Danthefestaman]

Right soim back to work and its time to get my head around sorting my engine out. I Have a 1098 which is nearly complete and a 998 which is complete.

The 1098 had a complete head minus the rocker gear, the bottom end has crank, rods, pistons, caps, cam. So missing is the flywheel, rockers, pushrods, followers, timing gear, oil / water pump, drop gears.

The 998 is complete and has a gearbox, the only thing removed is the timing chain cover which is there in a box of bits.

So my main question at the moment is how much can i take from the 998 to complete the 1098. Basically i want to mock up the 1098 before i pull it to bits and spend money on it!

There is a few boxes of bits and i think i have the proper 1098 flywheel and the 998 has a complete clutch setup.

Thanks in advance for the help!!

[oltonlad]

you can use as much of the stuff as you want from the 998 for the 1098, the only differences between the 2 engines are the pistons and crankshaft, you will also need the larger crank damper for the 1098.............dont use the 998 one!!

[Danthefestaman]

^{Im sure i still have the 1098 crank damper so should be ok! Got to get the thing put back together so i can start buying some bits and making a nice little engine! My boss thinks he may have a 295 head kicking around somewhere but i wont hold my hopes up and i will stick to the 202.
I have varios distributors and carbs to use but i may opt for a better carb in the end. And id like electronic ignintion of some sort!
I will try and take some pics as i go and if you spot anything odd let me know so i can put it right!}

Edited by Danthefestaman, 11 June 2012 - 09:37 PM.

[Danthefestaman]

Does anyone know the original part numbers of the 1098 parts, i.e crank, cam and crank damper? Trying to piece engine together and i have a lot of odds and sods

[oltonlad]

the 1275GT gearbox uses the same close ratio gears as the cooper "s", the drop in revs is much much less between 3rd and 4th gear

third and second...........

thats what i meant..............i dont know why i said 3rd and 4th............

[Danthefestaman]

Right so im putting one engine back together and the cam that was in the 1098 doesnt match the oil pump that was fitted albiet in a bag but painted in the same gold that the engine is. So i find a scabby old cam that matches the oil pump and on one end it has KCMD276SB, im guessing thats a kent item.

I already have discovered that i need a timing chest cover as the one i have must be for a tensioner type. So willing to swap or buy one to suit.

Would like to ID some of the parts to make sure what i have is right too! Any help or usefull sources would be great!

[oltonlad]

you can use the tensioner type timing cover on the 1098 (it should have had a tensioner as standard anyway) i have a backplate to match the tensioner type cover if you dont have one, if you want it i can countersink it as well if you want to run a duplex timing chain set (recommended), the cam that you have is a kent 276 which is unsuitable for a 1098 engine as the powerband is all wrong for the revs that the 1098 can acheive, ideally you need either a standard 1098 cam or a kent 266 which is the same as the one in my engine.

[oltonlad]

i wouldn't recommend using an oil pump that had been painted, but then again i wouldn't use a secondhand oil pump anyway, a new pump is only about £20 so you may as well get a new one, also make sure that you use the correct distributor drive in the 1098 as they differ from the 998 ones, if you use a 998 dizzy drive in the 1098 it will hit the crank and lock the engine up.

[Danthefestaman]

I thought the 276 was a bit to mad its just in the boxes of bits. Maybe thats why the engine was in pieces! Im going to use the ACD RT as suggested and would always replace everything im just putting a whole engine back together to check i have all the required bits and avoid any errors after ive spent a shedload of cash!

I should have a tensioner type cover and would like to run a duplex but what do you have to countersink?

There was a distributor in the engine so i will have a look at it and compare it to the 998.

Urgh i have boxes of bit and not a clue what goes where haha!!

[oltonlad]

there are 2 holes at the bottom of the plate that secure the plate to the engine, these have to be countersunk and the original bolts replaced by countersunk screws to clear the duplex chain, it takes 5 minutes to do.

its the distributor drive thats different on the 1098.....not the distributor itself, the only differences between the distributors is whether the engine is a pre A plus or an A plus.

Edited by oltonlad, 13 June 2012 - 08:37 PM.

[Danthefestaman]

Ok the two that hold it to one of the main caps, i have a fixed duplex so i could check it out!

I think there was a drve with the engine, there was certainly a mounting boss theat went in the hole!

Will put some pics onwhen i dont feel quite so rubbish! Next job is to strip the clutch end down and fit that to the 1098

[Danthefestaman]

Right so last night i got all the part numbers i could find to make sure i have the right parts!

The block is : BHM1042 ET28337
The pistons are : M2007 H32
The crank pulley is : 12g282 R20354D and is HOLSET
The crank is : 12G32
The rods are 12G124
And the only number i can find on the dizzy drive so far is ; H.1169

Does these make sence??