Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Do I Need Bigger Driveshafts?

engine suspension brakes

  • Please log in to reply
24 replies to this topic

#1 Deancooper

Deancooper

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Location: At sea
  • Local Club: No clubs near me :(

Posted 11 October 2013 - 05:05 AM

I have a rover mini 1990 with a 998 engine in it at the moment and im planing to change it for a 1380 with a stage 4 head, but im worried about the drive train with a engine of this size. Should i go straight cut or not should i go metro turbo drive shafts or not ???

 

From what i have red on this site some of you guys have serious mini's so im hoping you know what the best solution is

Attached Files



#2 Baldspeed Racing

Baldspeed Racing

    One Carb Or Two?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,185 posts
  • Location: Southam

Posted 11 October 2013 - 06:42 AM

standard shafts will be fine with the 1380 as ive never had any issues with mine



#3 bpirie1000

bpirie1000

    Up Into Fourth

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,119 posts
  • Location: Aberdeenshire
  • Local Club: Amoc

Posted 11 October 2013 - 07:47 AM

Only might have issues with brakes.....

#4 MIGLIACARS

MIGLIACARS

    Up Into Fourth

  • Traders
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,057 posts

Posted 11 October 2013 - 08:57 AM

standard shafts will be upto the job.

 

Not sure that metro turbo shafts were different to normal metro shafts and pretty sure they dont fit a mini



#5 tiger99

tiger99

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,584 posts
  • Location: Hemel Hempstead

Posted 11 October 2013 - 09:05 AM

The standard drive shafts will be ok for a 1380. For abnormally high power you eventually do need special shafts which use Maxi/Allegro CVs.

 

The reason for that is that making a stronger shaft from higher grade steel does not work in the long term, as the number of fatigue cycles it will stand is no better than that of the standard material. The weak point is the circlip groove which abuts the CV (the thick circlip, not the locking clip). One way around that is to use special shafts without that groove, but with a welded on collar to replace it, but the better way is to use larger diameter shafts, which is where the Maxi CVs come in. That is usually for non-A series engines, which will come with their own larger inner joints, as obviously the shaft diameter at the pot joint would be a limiting factor on an A series engine.

 

Edit: As stated above, Metro shafts can't fit because they must be the wrong length, as the Metro has a wider track.


Edited by tiger99, 11 October 2013 - 09:06 AM.


#6 Deancooper

Deancooper

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Location: At sea
  • Local Club: No clubs near me :(

Posted 11 October 2013 - 01:16 PM

thanks for the help guys brake wise i was going to fit 7.9 vented disks with 4 pot calipers and some vented rear drums

 

also do i need a straight cut gearbox or is there no need?



#7 HarrysMini

HarrysMini

    I do not have short legs!!!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,352 posts
  • Location: .

Posted 11 October 2013 - 01:28 PM

Vented rear drums? 

I'd like to see these.

 

You don't need a straight cut 'box. I personally never will because the noise is unbearable. It's personal preference.



#8 Ethel

Ethel

    ..is NOT a girl!

  • TMF Team
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 25,418 posts
  • Local Club: none

Posted 11 October 2013 - 01:54 PM

Minifin drums? The standards brakes will work just as well, unless you do a lot of hard braking, your Mini is still going to weigh about the same. The limiting factor on the hammer the driveshafts get is still likely to be tyre grip. Don't think you'll have any issue on road tread with an open diff. It'd the diff I'd prioritise for upgrading.



#9 Deancooper

Deancooper

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Location: At sea
  • Local Club: No clubs near me :(

Posted 11 October 2013 - 02:08 PM

i'm going for the minifin drums because i live next to what i can only describe as one of the best roads mountain roads i've ever  driven and i find that brake fade is a issue i need to attend to.

what diff do you think i should have for a 1380 ??



#10 rally1380

rally1380

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,893 posts
  • Location: Cheshire

Posted 11 October 2013 - 02:41 PM

i'm going for the minifin drums because i live next to what i can only describe as one of the best roads mountain roads i've ever  driven and i find that brake fade is a issue i need to attend to.

what diff do you think i should have for a 1380 ??

 

Decent front pads, and high temp brake fluid will solve the brake fade issue......and when I say decent pads I don't mean Green stuff. I use Mintex M1144 pads and castrol high temp fluid on my road rally mini and they are great and have not faded yet....and thats without minifin rears.



#11 Deancooper

Deancooper

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Location: At sea
  • Local Club: No clubs near me :(

Posted 11 October 2013 - 03:30 PM

HaHaHa i see you have had the same issues i had with ebc greanstuff pads genuinly crap pads i used to run mintex 1144 pads on my old bmw mini and i found them to be fantastic



#12 HarrysMini

HarrysMini

    I do not have short legs!!!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,352 posts
  • Location: .

Posted 11 October 2013 - 03:35 PM

A 3.44 FDR would be good as a compromise between acceleration and top speed. 

 

That's what I'm running at it's great.



#13 Deancooper

Deancooper

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 5 posts
  • Location: At sea
  • Local Club: No clubs near me :(

Posted 11 October 2013 - 04:33 PM

On another note has anibody used a 1380 engine from minisport? are they any good? as thats the engine and box im leaning towards!

on the brake subject what about the m1155 are they a bit to much for a fast road and ocasional track day?



#14 jaydee

jaydee

    Crazy About Mini's

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,565 posts

Posted 11 October 2013 - 06:09 PM

A straight cut gearbox is bearable as long as its the box only that has SC gears. SC drop gears can be very annoying.



#15 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,039 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 11 October 2013 - 09:33 PM

The need for a SC CR gearbox is determined by the cam. If you have a 286 of hotter cam, then a 286 is needed because of the narrower rev range in each gear. But then a low final drive ratio is needed to enable good acceleration in the high first gear.

I recommend going to 1330 cc as when the engine needs re-boring again the block will not be scrap. There is very little difference, if any, in power output.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: engine, suspension, brakes

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users