
#1
Posted 20 March 2018 - 06:38 AM
I have recently bought my second classic mini (a 1980 clubman, 1098) but have had problems with the electrics from the start & need some help.
The issues are as follows:
- one headlight not working on dipper beam but both work on full beam
- indicators not flashing just solid orange lights
- hazards not working
- when lights on, no rear lights (reverse and braking lights work fine)
- interior light blinks
- temp and petrol gauges not working
- Car will no longer start (just clicks at me)
(Both the earth straps seem fine, however bought another one to fit just to be sure)
I need to drive it to the mechanics to get new tyres fitted but its simply not safe to drive in its current state.
Also, the oil drain plug is stuck so I cant change the bloody oil!! Tried warming the car up, using something to loosen the bolt etc but nothing!
Any and all ideas are hugely appreciated!
Thanks
C
#2
Posted 20 March 2018 - 07:44 AM
For the rest, I would start by systematically going through all the connectors, splitting them and making sure they are in good condition and clean.
#3
Posted 20 March 2018 - 08:12 AM
+1 for a flat battery Sort that first and see if you still have any problems.
#4
Posted 20 March 2018 - 11:10 AM
Agreed, check the battery,
have you checked the headlight bulb filament? also the stop/tail light bulb filaments? they could be broken if only half working,
have you cleaned the fuse box? that can lead to all electrical issues on a mini.
#5
Posted 20 March 2018 - 12:20 PM
If got sealed beams new headlight
Indicators check flasher unit after battery condition determined
All other stuff check connections at fuse box ( for how much it costs I always fit a new fuse box as they can cause a lot of intermittent problems)
Edited by Van13, 20 March 2018 - 12:21 PM.
#6
Posted 20 March 2018 - 10:28 PM
Still having the same issues with the lights, will have a look at the weekend and keep you all posted.
C
#7
Posted 20 March 2018 - 10:55 PM
It needs a good run to replace the charge used - it used to be said that a 20 minute run was needed to replace the charge used starting an engine once. Modern batteries may be a bit better, but the theory is the same.
#8
Posted 23 March 2018 - 06:11 AM
The alternator isnt going to give an effect charge if the car is just sat on the drive running and you keep starting it.
It needs a good run to replace the charge used - it used to be said that a 20 minute run was needed to replace the charge used starting an engine once. Modern batteries may be a bit better, but the theory is the same.
It doesnt charge whilst out & about either, I think the alternator is knackered. Im going to dry & change the fan belt as it has stretched, other than that it must be the alternator.
Its developed a new thing where now it stalls/cuts out constantly which is fantastic, I think thats an electric related issue too.
Thanks for your help!
C
#9
Posted 23 March 2018 - 11:12 AM
If you have a meter you can check the alternator by measuring the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running. 14.5 volts is good.
Sounds like you have a collection of electrical faults, I'd start at the battery and work through the whole system... solenoid connections, ignition switch, fuse box...
#10
Posted 23 March 2018 - 11:16 AM
There are many earth connections to the body dotted about apart from the main engine to body one - they are very often a good place to start once you've checked bulbs etc
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: electrical, engine
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