
Low, Wide, fast road car
#31
Posted 04 November 2006 - 12:42 PM
I have just been looking trough a old mag which ade and petes car was featured in and there is a rather nice ford olympic blue 1330 in there putting out around 120 odd BHP.
I tihnk i will deffinately go for the 1330 now for many reasons and there are still a few rebores to play around with if some thing goes wrong!
#32
Posted 04 November 2006 - 05:12 PM
120bhp, with a WILD cam!
IMHO, look at 90, with a milder cam, this will give you a wider power band width, letting you have more fun burning off 1.2 clio sports

Edited by Ðogmatix, 04 November 2006 - 05:13 PM.
#33
Posted 04 November 2006 - 10:23 PM
Thanks Dog youve been great!
#34
Posted 05 November 2006 - 12:37 AM
I am taking my block to a local engine service place, I'll give them the bits I want standard parts replaced with...
so for me;
Cam and the head, will come from Morspeed
Block is a homegrown job
box - bought second hand off here, but its like new, with a 4pin diff...
I'say for my enigne, using some used parts... I'd built my enigne for about £1000 so its not bad!
But if i bought the box outright from say someone like GuessWorks, or Iklemini, it would of cost me close to £500 just for the box, so i got a bargin!
So if you went NEW with everything, I;d say it'll prob cost about £1500-£2000
#35
Posted 05 November 2006 - 12:56 PM
Thats a lot for that Dog. My valance should be here on the next few days but how should i attach it if i am to take the seem off? should i wend the valance on and then take off the seem or should i take the seems off then attach the valance?
Thanks a lot, Tomm
#36
Posted 05 November 2006 - 03:53 PM
#37
Posted 05 November 2006 - 09:59 PM
Where would i be withought you

Your de-bumpering yours arent you?
#38
Posted 05 November 2006 - 10:08 PM
I want a bumper and not a bum! lol
Plus, it won't be retro without bumpers lol
#39
Posted 05 November 2006 - 10:12 PM
Ahh bums are sexy! But i supose your right on the retro front.
Also in the last few minutes i have decided to remove my seems where the Sil is joined

#40
Posted 09 November 2006 - 04:41 PM
Tomm
#41
Posted 14 November 2006 - 08:22 PM
Can anyone shed some light for me please. I am also hoping to patch my heelboard and rear floor soon and then the rear should be ready for painting after i have fitted some lowering shocks.
but firstly i am after some help on boto realease please

Tomm
#42
Posted 14 November 2006 - 08:24 PM
Can't garentee if I have... will have to look....
#43
Posted 26 November 2006 - 09:44 PM
Welding;-
Front drivers floor panel needs to be replaced

Need to do some patching in the back on the heel board and around that area.
Also got some to do on the drivers side A-panel, its not big enough to replace the whole panel so a lil bit of patching will do here.
Also a tad needs to be done on the rear quater

Components wise i need the folowing.
Lowering shocks and Adj hi-lo's
New rear valance
Front disc set up
and a 1275 engine and all the shiznog to get it running
I have decided to go for a 1275 as it will be El'cheapo on insurance and 1277 is more than enough for a new driver

what do i need to change my brakes from drims to discs? Drive shafts? fanges? i relly dont have the foggiest
#44
Posted 27 November 2006 - 05:02 PM

Tonight i am going to...
Cut the inner wings down
try to do some patching
Finish off my boot
Try to get rid of a rust bubble on the a panel

I will edit tnoight with some pics, where i will be seeking some advice

Tomm
#45
Posted 28 November 2006 - 10:00 PM
He repliesd with...
12HC01AA0100204
From that i have found the engine number, 12HC01 which relates to a 1275 A+ engine, leaded, dished pistions, 9.75.1 CR...
from that i still do not know what i want to know about the engine, is this a turbo engine number?
When buying a turbo what is the things to be on the look out for?
Thanks people, Tomm
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