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Low, Wide, fast road car


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#31 Tomm

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Posted 04 November 2006 - 12:42 PM

Ive just had a quick look, is it the spec in the first post?

I have just been looking trough a old mag which ade and petes car was featured in and there is a rather nice ford olympic blue 1330 in there putting out around 120 odd BHP.

I tihnk i will deffinately go for the 1330 now for many reasons and there are still a few rebores to play around with if some thing goes wrong!

#32 Dog

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Posted 04 November 2006 - 05:12 PM

Nah the spec you need to look at is around page 19 or sometihng.....

120bhp, with a WILD cam!
IMHO, look at 90, with a milder cam, this will give you a wider power band width, letting you have more fun burning off 1.2 clio sports :D

Edited by Ðogmatix, 04 November 2006 - 05:13 PM.


#33 Tomm

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Posted 04 November 2006 - 10:23 PM

Haha! sweet! Ill go have a look in your thread in a moment! What pistions should i look at getting? and where is best to get my head bored? where did/are you taking yours?

Thanks Dog youve been great!

#34 Dog

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 12:37 AM

Personally, I am going to be using 21253 pistons, as these will give me a higher comp ratio, and are better with Unleaded fuel!

I am taking my block to a local engine service place, I'll give them the bits I want standard parts replaced with...

so for me;

Cam and the head, will come from Morspeed
Block is a homegrown job
box - bought second hand off here, but its like new, with a 4pin diff...

I'say for my enigne, using some used parts... I'd built my enigne for about £1000 so its not bad!

But if i bought the box outright from say someone like GuessWorks, or Iklemini, it would of cost me close to £500 just for the box, so i got a bargin!

So if you went NEW with everything, I;d say it'll prob cost about £1500-£2000

#35 Tomm

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 12:56 PM

not bad dog! I think i will try to get as amny parts as i can off of here which should save me a few bob. I will not be looking to start building the engine untill july time maybe a bit earlier.

Thats a lot for that Dog. My valance should be here on the next few days but how should i attach it if i am to take the seem off? should i wend the valance on and then take off the seem or should i take the seems off then attach the valance?

Thanks a lot, Tomm

#36 Dog

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 03:53 PM

Best way to deseam the vanlance is fit it correctly, and then take it off... long arsey job, but its the best way!

#37 Tomm

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 09:59 PM

Thanks Dog Great help!

Where would i be withought you :D

Your de-bumpering yours arent you?

#38 Dog

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 10:08 PM

I was, but changed my mind to be honest!

I want a bumper and not a bum! lol
Plus, it won't be retro without bumpers lol

#39 Tomm

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 10:12 PM

ha ha true true!

Ahh bums are sexy! But i supose your right on the retro front.

Also in the last few minutes i have decided to remove my seems where the Sil is joined :D Recon it would look out of place with the rest of the seems?

#40 Tomm

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 04:41 PM

I have just forked out nearly 3k on a new bike, so i think the project will go on hold till after chrimbo. I can fit the boot which will be run off of a internal release system and internal higes so if any one could give me some advice on how to make the hinges and internal release i would be very happy!

Tomm

#41 Tomm

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Posted 14 November 2006 - 08:22 PM

Crashed my bike so i dont like it anymore so the mini shall have some more attention! I am rather stuck for the internal release and hinges!?!?

Can anyone shed some light for me please. I am also hoping to patch my heelboard and rear floor soon and then the rear should be ready for painting after i have fitted some lowering shocks.

but firstly i am after some help on boto realease please :lol:

Tomm

#42 Dog

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Posted 14 November 2006 - 08:24 PM

I have an internal bonnet relase kit somewhere in the shed....

Can't garentee if I have... will have to look....

#43 Tomm

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 09:44 PM

Now on my to do list. I have found some money so at the top of my list is a engine of some sort!

Welding;-

Front drivers floor panel needs to be replaced :xxx:
Need to do some patching in the back on the heel board and around that area.
Also got some to do on the drivers side A-panel, its not big enough to replace the whole panel so a lil bit of patching will do here.
Also a tad needs to be done on the rear quater :)

Components wise i need the folowing.

Lowering shocks and Adj hi-lo's
New rear valance
Front disc set up
and a 1275 engine and all the shiznog to get it running

I have decided to go for a 1275 as it will be El'cheapo on insurance and 1277 is more than enough for a new driver :w00t:

what do i need to change my brakes from drims to discs? Drive shafts? fanges? i relly dont have the foggiest

#44 Tomm

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Posted 27 November 2006 - 05:02 PM

I am having no luck with finding a running 1275 :- but i still have a while yet, I have found a welding tutorial video whilst clearing the loft out so i am now off to get some welding wire and give the video a watch and try to be able to get some rust patched over.

Tonight i am going to...

Cut the inner wings down
try to do some patching
Finish off my boot
Try to get rid of a rust bubble on the a panel :)

I will edit tnoight with some pics, where i will be seeking some advice :)

Tomm

#45 Tomm

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Posted 28 November 2006 - 10:00 PM

righty looking on flebay and i have come across a engine which i am pretty intretsed in. I asked the seller for engine number (s) as there are 2 engines and one block in the auction.

He repliesd with...

12HC01AA0100204

From that i have found the engine number, 12HC01 which relates to a 1275 A+ engine, leaded, dished pistions, 9.75.1 CR...

from that i still do not know what i want to know about the engine, is this a turbo engine number?

When buying a turbo what is the things to be on the look out for?

Thanks people, Tomm




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