9 replies to this topic

[Ichbineinmini]

Evening all

Have got red paper type from mini spares, the £1.78 version. A YT mini channel suggests the type to go for is the one with a silicone/rubber bead on it. Looks like Mini Spares 12G2625

Not a job I want to do twice so would like to buy the one least likely to leak, anyone have good success with a certain brand or type?

I was surprised to find the gasket fitted to my car was indeed the type with the rubber bead.

I suspect the chain cover not being as flat as it could be is the culprit.

I’ll be using Reinzosil sealant which gets good reviews but more known outside uk.

By the way, anyone who’s done this job, were you surprised by how short some of the bolts are ?

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Edited by Ichbineinmini, 01 February 2026 - 11:09 PM.

[nicklouse]

Yes the bolts are short. And either will do. I use blue hylomar.

[Spider]

I've had a few duff timing cover gaskets in recent times, for A and A+. I had quite a few in the A type that I've now dumped. I changed iust a few of them before I suspected the gasket, tried a different one and well,,,,,  I have an A+ doing the same,,,,

[mab01uk]

This is what Minispares say about many of their range of upgraded 'Klinger' gaskets for the Mini:-

"The manufacturer believes its an overkill to use Klinger material on a Mini but they are not aware of how the Mini leaks oil....Rover did however realise the problem and started using this type of gasket on the MPi models from 1997 on, where they did not want expensive claims on labour warranty costs."

https://www.minispar...-to-avoid-leaks

 

Remember also that BMW were now in charge at Rover back in 1997.....

 

TIMING COVER GASKET LATEST SPEC of 12G2625

GUG705550GM

Out of stock

"Genuine Timing cover Klinger gasket with screen sealant strip to stop leaks for cars with timing chain tensioner bulge as standard on all A Plus. Definitely worth the extra cost for longevity on your valuable classic mini Tip-When fitting make sure all bolt holes line up through gasket and ensure you only do bolts up lightly and alternatively to start with, (larger bolts first) because doing one up tight before moving on to the next one can cause distortion to the gasket and slight splitting which under heat and cooling of the engine can eventually cause tears. correct torque setting- 1/4"dia unf bolts 4-6lb.ft kg.m 0.55-0.83 5/16"dia unf bolt 10-14lb.ft kg.m 1.4-1.9"

https://www.minispar...spec-of-12g2625

 

 

Edited by mab01uk, 02 February 2026 - 11:02 AM.

[Shooter63]

The reason some of the bolts are so short is that they only fix into the threaded back plate, plus where the backplate is in close proximity of the block (top) any longer bolts would hit the block potentially deforming the back plate.

Shooter

PS Reinzosil is good stuff, just not well known in the mini world

[croc7]

Years ago, Mini Magazine had an excellent article about curing the ever present leak, weep, ooze or drip from the timing chain cover/seal.  Basically it said to insure that the mating surface around the timing cover mounting holes is absolutely flat, use a good sealant on both sides of the gasket, with particular attention around the holes, torque bolts (different values for different sizes) to spec so as to avoid distortion of the cover and insure that the cover/seal is centered on the crank.  To do this, I use a home made tool-an old damper (with the pulley removed) to hold the cover in place and still be able to access the bolts. I've found that using this method to replace the seal / gasket will keep that end of the engine nice and dry for about a year, when the drip on the floor returns.  Perhaps someone will chime in with a good part number for a seal that has worked for them.

Edited by croc7, 05 February 2026 - 10:10 PM.

[floormanager]

Not a job I want to do twice so would like to buy the one least likely to leak, anyone have good success with a certain brand or type?

 

I admire your optimism!

[Ichbineinmini]

Oh OK then, let her drip! 

 

I've had a look for this Klinger gasket and quel surprise no one has it in stock, so far. I'll search some more. 

 

In the meantime I've got a flat section of steel beam to use to gently flatten the timing chain cover against, it's been pulled inwards around the bolt holes.

 

I read a comment about using paint on the back of the timing chain cover and pressing that onto paper to see the highs/lows. Quite clever I thought, might give that a whirl. Maybe use oil not paint. 

 

Do I really go as far as buying a teeny tiny torque wrench, smaller bolts were about thumb tight and a bit. 

 

In boat world of goo (Sikaflex) there is an idea that you add the goo, bolt down a bit until it oozes out. Leave it alone for a day then return to bolt it down some more. People repair caravans with it, very powerful adhesive and sealant. 

 

No I won't be using Sikaflex, but, but, what if.. 

[Ethel]

The blue line is encapsulated sealant similar to Hylomar. The gasket thickness can also differ, but it won't matter much here. It does if preloads & shimming is involved, diff end covers for example.

[Ichbineinmini]

The blue line is encapsulated sealant similar to Hylomar. The gasket thickness can also differ, but it won't matter much here. It does if preloads & shimming is involved, diff end covers for example.

 

I did think that the encapsulated sealant wouldn't be doing much of the heavy lifting, as would be adding a better where possible one doing the repair.

 

Not having paper gasket and what seems like part number LVX100070EVA side by side I couldn't comment on thickness, but a thicker gasket sounds like it would be a better choice. 

 

​Most suppliers for the Rover MG part are OOS, Old Skool Mini's are going to try someone and let me know. That said, they have used the red paper type gasket for their jobs, as will a lot of others. So if no joy on parts I'll just get on and use what I've got 

Edited by Ichbineinmini, 03 February 2026 - 05:06 PM.