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Overbored Or Supercharged 850 Rebuild?

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#16 kkonstantinopoulos

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Posted 08 May 2026 - 01:14 PM

As for tuning: all As are pretty asthmatic if we're honest, so forced induction can find power by just making up for the poorer breathing as the revs increase: not giving the pistons any harder of a time than they had where the unblown engine made peak torque. The threat to them is piling more stress on them in that peak torque range. Turbos have the advantage over mechanically driven blowers with that, but good control of the ignition timing can be more important with either. If you're tech savvy & have access to the machining tools, you should consider putting together some programmable ignition system, like Sparkduino. There will be some cost, but once you have built it you'll have it to use on future projects, A Series or otherwise.

 

That makes sense, and is partly why Stuart recommended keeping the redline closer to ~5000 rpm.

 

The main reason I’ve been leaning away from a turbo setup is the added complexity. Adding a return line, blow-through carb setup, rising-rate FPR, etc. would mean a lot more time with the engine out sorting everything. In that regard, the suck-through supercharger setup, while a bit crude, has the advantage of being more of a “bolt-on” upgrade.

 

The Sparkduino idea is definitely interesting, but at the moment I’m leaning more towards the fully programmable 123+ distributor. I like that it still looks period-correct while offering a lot of tuning flexibility.

 

I may end up moving the timeline for this project forward slightly anyway. The heater valve blew on the motorway this morning and overheated the engine quite badly. Need to see if everything survived. Lesson learned about cheap reproduction parts...



#17 lsto

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Posted 09 May 2026 - 05:41 PM

Just my 2 pence... I run a turbo'd 998. Run 8psi, no intercooler, standard pistons and bottom end etc. I use the accuspark black box 3 for my timing. Can use any dizzy and you can set up any advance curve you want, can also set vacuum advance on it and retard the timing when it boosts up, all programmable on the unit, so no apps or computer needed. Also can set hard or soft rev limiters. It does some multi spark thing which is meant to help starting but I don't know if it actually makes any difference. If you go on YouTube there are videos from the manufacturer.
As for the heater I went with the mini spares inline type from the later cars due to poor quality taps.
As for supercharger I've been looking at this https://ebay.us/m/bUHvOp Not sure of the quality but looks interesting.

Edited by lsto, 09 May 2026 - 05:50 PM.


#18 kkonstantinopoulos

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Posted 10 May 2026 - 03:51 PM

Just my 2 pence... I run a turbo'd 998. Run 8psi, no intercooler, standard pistons and bottom end etc. I use the accuspark black box 3 for my timing. Can use any dizzy and you can set up any advance curve you want, can also set vacuum advance on it and retard the timing when it boosts up, all programmable on the unit, so no apps or computer needed. Also can set hard or soft rev limiters. It does some multi spark thing which is meant to help starting but I don't know if it actually makes any difference. If you go on YouTube there are videos from the manufacturer.
As for the heater I went with the mini spares inline type from the later cars due to poor quality taps.
As for supercharger I've been looking at this https://ebay.us/m/bUHvOp Not sure of the quality but looks interesting.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, the Accuspark setup actually looks like a really clever solution. I like that it keeps the original look while hiding a lot of functionality away, and it’s also considerably cheaper than the 123 distributor, which is definitely appealing.

 

Regarding the AMR500, I’ve been a bit hesitant about those mainly because they seem harder to package neatly, and the blower design itself is a fair bit less efficient than the VW unit I was considering. The AMR is still a fairly crude 2-lobe design, whereas the VW charger (Eaton V400) uses a twisted 3-lobe rotor setup which should be noticeably more efficient. The VW units also seem cheaper and easier to source used.

 

For the heater setup, I was thinking of using a hidden solenoid valve inline with the heater hose underneath the bulkhead passthrough, and repurposing the original heater control knob as a switch to operate it. That way everything still looks original inside the car while removing the unreliable cable-operated valve entirely.

 

For now though I’ll probably just fit a blanking plate since it’s summer anyway, so heating isn’t exactly a priority. Thankfully the engine seems to have survived despite the temperature gauge being pinned on high for a few minutes. I suppose that says quite a lot about the durability of the old cast-iron A-series.







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