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The Wheels On My Mini Go Ve-vum Ve-vum Ve-vum Ve-vum


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#31 scrabblelicous

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 08:26 AM

if it noms the diff, then its everything out and strap new diff on and possible GB rebuild.

#32 Juju

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 08:29 AM

if it noms the diff, then its everything out and strap new diff on and possible GB rebuild.



Yeah I know how it's fixed! What's the worst that could happen damage-wise? :P

#33 scrabblelicous

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 08:32 AM

as i said it nom's the diff, diff die, possibly putting loads of bits in to box, box fill with swarf, box die.

Happy?

#34 Juju

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 08:36 AM

as i said it nom's the diff, diff die, possibly putting loads of bits in to box, box fill with swarf, box die.

Happy?



Whoa! You're in a good mood!! I'm only asking for information. :P

The diff could just disintegrate?

#35 WiredbyWilson

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 08:39 AM

as i said it nom's the diff, diff die, possibly putting loads of bits in to box, box fill with swarf, box die.

Happy?



Whoa! You're in a good mood!! I'm only asking for information. :P

The diff could just disintegrate?



Well no, but an explanation without sarcasm and attitude would be:

The diff bearings will suffer, and potentially fail - thus resulting in swarf filtering into the box and potentially causing damage to the rest aof the box and maybe the engine as well as the oil is shared.

The other option is the diff bearing seizes and the diff makes a sharp stage exit left taking the casing with it.

Hmmmmm - but both seem extreme as Matilda has not covered a lot of miles and has alwasy been loked after :P

#36 Juju

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 08:47 AM

Well no, but an explanation without sarcasm and attitude would be:

The diff bearings will suffer, and potentially fail - thus resulting in swarf filtering into the box and potentially causing damage to the rest aof the box and maybe the engine as well as the oil is shared.

The other option is the diff bearing seizes and the diff makes a sharp stage exit left taking the casing with it.

Hmmmmm - but both seem extreme as Matilda has not covered a lot of miles and has alwasy been loked after :P


Oh Lordy :P . Thanks David. Neither scenario is desirable....I'll try & get it sorted a.s.a.p.

Just found these on t'interweb:

Noise: Howl while decelerating (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Loose pinion bearing preload

Noise: Howl with whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn rear pinion bearing or worn gear set

Noise: Howl without whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading

Noise: Howling while accelerating over a small speed range (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading

Noise: Howling after gear set installation
Cause: Faulty gears or improper installation

Noise: Low-pitch rumble at all speeds over 20 miles per hour
Cause: Worn carrier bearings

Noise: Whirring during acceleration/deceleration at about 10 miles per hour
Cause: Worn pinion bearings

#37 Juju

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 12:18 PM

Okies. Got a quote back from the garage for just checking the driveshafts. £246.10 to strip them off, send them away & get them checked, plus no Matilda for three days! :P

Think I will be giving minidaves a call.....

#38 GraemeC

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 12:48 PM

and they said that was going to be the cheap bit :P

New drive shafts are only about £100 plus maximum of 1hr a side to fit!

#39 Juju

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 12:52 PM

and they said that was going to be the cheap bit :P

New drive shafts are only about £100 plus maximum of 1hr a side to fit!



Hmmm good point Mr C. I shall speak with them tonight.

#40 Juju

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 01:03 PM

Actually. She had one replaced last year with secondhand parts, and it was then that I first heard the "whoooo" noise.
(These old threads of mine provide a really good reminder of what was done when - otherwise my memory would be totally unsatisfactory)

Anyway, so maybe it was this replacement shaft that is f***ing with the diff?

Or have I just gone round in circles?

Wheel bearings munched.

Wheel bearing replaced.

Wheel bearings munched again

Drive shaft & bearings replaced.

"Whooo" noise appears.

Wheelbearings munched again.

Wheel bearing replaced again.

"Whooo" noise appears again.

The noise has probably been there all along, just masked by the din of the bearings.

Diff?

#41 Jammy

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 01:25 PM

Just to butt in here, but is it both sides making this noise? If it was the shafts or the bearings/hubs then it would be quite improbable that both sides would have the same symptoms at the same time. However if the noise is confined to one side of the car then it would suggest that either the shaft, or wheel hub assembly is at fault.

The thing you mentioned about going around the roundabout, and the noise changing. That suggests to me that as the load on the drivetrain changes the sympton is getting worse (or possibly better). This to me suggests the diff. What year is the car? The later Rover cars were known to have gearboxes made of chocolate, a problem made worse by the really tall diff that puts quite a lot of strain on to the differential.

My advice would be to initially investigate the problem more. Take the front carpets out of the car and see if you can narrow down where the noise is coming from. Maybe get the front up in the air, see if there is any play in the hubs and shafts.

One more question though, when you were going through wheel bearings, once they were changed and the ve-vum noise disappeared, was the whoooo noise still there?

#42 Juju

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 01:31 PM

Just to butt in here, but is it both sides making this noise? If it was the shafts or the bearings/hubs then it would be quite improbable that both sides would have the same symptoms at the same time. However if the noise is confined to one side of the car then it would suggest that either the shaft, or wheel hub assembly is at fault.



In a straight line the noise sounds like it is coming from the centre of the front of the car. When cornering, there's an extra "Whum whum" coming from the O/S.

The thing you mentioned about going around the roundabout, and the noise changing. That suggests to me that as the load on the drivetrain changes the sympton is getting worse (or possibly better). This to me suggests the diff. What year is the car? The later Rover cars were known to have gearboxes made of chocolate, a problem made worse by the really tall diff that puts quite a lot of strain on to the differential.


She's 2000. Gearbox itself is fine.

My advice would be to initially investigate the problem more. Take the front carpets out of the car and see if you can narrow down where the noise is coming from. Maybe get the front up in the air, see if there is any play in the hubs and shafts.


Already been done & all appears fine.

One more question though, when you were going through wheel bearings, once they were changed and the ve-vum noise disappeared, was the whoooo noise still there?


Yes. Which makes me think that the "Whoooooooooo" noise began after her first driveshaft change.

#43 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 02:18 PM

Err.... OK...

Right, first of all, are you sure the wheel bearings are being 'munched' ie when you remove them are they pitted, broken up or are you just replacing them because of the noise...

Have you checked the condition of the shaft on the CV when changing the wheel bearings, there should be absolutely NO play between the CV shaft and the bearing.

Have you replaced the CV ?

To check the diff, get one front wheel in the air on a jack/axle stand and the other on the ground, select 1st gear ( engine off ) now turn the free wheel ( the one in the air ) backward and forward, there should be a little movement but not much... if there's quite a lot then the diff pin is b***oxed and will need to be changed before the diff exits the back of the gearbox ( main cause of gearbox failure on MPis )

Driveshaft out of ballance is very unlikely unless the vehicle has been in an accident.

Well that's m two penneth worth

#44 Juju

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 02:25 PM

Err.... OK...

Right, first of all, are you sure the wheel bearings are being 'munched' ie when you remove them are they pitted, broken up or are you just replacing them because of the noise...


Yep, they're totally buggered. Broken up. Collar too. Last year's lot were ground to a pulp.

Have you checked the condition of the shaft on the CV when changing the wheel bearings, there should be absolutely NO play between the CV shaft and the bearing.

Have you replaced the CV ?


It was replaced last year. I haven't checked it personally, but I'll ask The Man.

To check the diff, get one front wheel in the air on a jack/axle stand and the other on the ground, select 1st gear ( engine off ) now turn the free wheel ( the one in the air ) backward and forward, there should be a little movement but not much... if there's quite a lot then the diff pin is b***oxed and will need to be changed before the diff exits the back of the gearbox ( main cause of gearbox failure on MPis )

Driveshaft out of ballance is very unlikely unless the vehicle has been in an accident.

Well that's m two penneth worth


Thanks! :P

That I will do this evening. In fact I may even do it at work before I go home.
Thanks Mr Works. I owe you a cup of tea & a nice slice of cake. :P

#45 DaveRob

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 03:13 PM

I would concur with all Guessworks says here..... but looking at it with a fresh pair of eyes so to speak..... if the bearings are MUNCHED.... then the problem could be diff related but is unlikley.... do you have any pics of your munched bearings?...... I might suggest only using the Timkin bearings and ensuring they stay with the matched races. also lubrication....ooo errr..... what grease is being put in.... and does the torque wrench used actally go up to the 250+ needed on the castle nut. I know W&P are reputable..... but Id def say the driveshaft thing is unlikley unless its been in an accident. If all the noises dissapear when the bearings are changed... and you find no diff pin prob by following GW's advice then the problem would seem to be from the following

1 lubrication...or lack of it

2 missmatched bearing races

3 under torqued castlated nut

4 CV problem

5 Hub fault... ie damaged or out of round...

Just my 2p.... for what its worth

Hope you fix soon

Rob :P




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