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Rusty The Minus (aka Mr Hoskins)


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#496 commander

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 09:48 PM

what about a long thin one (or 2 linked in series) one up front where ever space may lie and another where other rad would but as high as possible to allow for sus' movment?

if you put it in the boot (cut out floor and holes in boot i assume?) can you replace that in the future with a Cf kinda jobbie? and obviously new boot floor

going on what your saying you could possibly raise the boot floor and fit it under,
or is that getting into too much work?

#497 1an

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 09:49 PM

quick question,

are you still running 1inch spacers with those calipers to fit your wellers? or have you changed wheels somewhere through the thread?


nice car by the way, will be nice to see it at L2B

#498 Dom

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Posted 23 April 2008 - 09:59 PM

:)

Anyway, here's the p0rn!


Posted Image


Nice to see it coming along Jammy :P It's been a good 2 years since we went for a random drive! :mrcool:

#499 Jammy

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 07:49 AM

There is just enough room above/in front of the alternator and sparkies to get a rad, but then not much room to get any fans behind or in front.

I looked at in between the rear subframe just last week, and because the whole height thing, the exhaust back box has to be raised right up into the subframe, therefore ruining any chance of putting a rad there.

At the moment I don't really want to get into the sort of work it would take to raise or cut out a boot floor, trying to get the Minus body as original as I can. But putting the rad in the boot is looking like the winning idea right now.

As for the spacers on the wheels, I have changed them now. I could have got away with just using 10mm or 15mm spacers, but I only have 20mm spacers in the garage, so I've had to use them. Plus I need to make sure the Wellers fill the Milgias arches I've got anyway. I think if I had the discs turned down a few mm, I could mount the caliper further in and then not use spacers at all.

#500 Ade

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 08:38 AM

Hi Jammy

Long time no speak ^_^

I'm guessing if the subby fitment is anything like mine was then you'll have a load of redundant space in the top of the wings? I feel sure a man of your ability could rustle up a small rad in the top of each arch an air feed and a fan and some sort of guard to stop too much poop from the road being thrown on them from the wheels.

And now for the trick idea some louvre type slots on the top of the arches to allow the hot air out ;D could look quite tidy........

#501 Boab

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 09:55 AM

Looking good Jammy.
Any chance of a reply to my PM ^_^

#502 Jammy

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 10:26 AM

Thanks Boab! Didn't notice I had a new PM, have now replied.

#503 Jammy

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 07:56 PM

  • Wire up engine
  • Fit carb after buying a fitting correct needle
  • Fit thermostat and housing
  • Fit oil filter housing properly
  • Fit heater tap
  • Fit dizzy cap, HT leads and coil
  • Mount washer bottle
  • Fit front brake pipes
  • Change front brake calipers
  • Get shorter fan pulley bolts
  • Fit exhaust (basically just the link pipe into the Y piece)
  • Fit gear linkage
  • Setup suspension angles
  • Fit engine steadies (might need to buy the one that bolts to the water pump)
  • Fit rear roll cage (needs modifying)
  • Fit harnesses
  • Modify drivers seat subframe
  • Fit DD2 lite
  • Sort out doors (big job)
  • Work out where radiator is going and plumb in
  • Fit arches
  • [s]Change headlights
  • Fit battery
  • [s]Mount solenoid
Still steadily getting through the smaller jobs, leaving the biggies for the weekend. Tonight I took the washer bottle bracket off again, filed a little notch in it, so it fitted better on the clutch housing bolts. Then got around to fitting the solenoid. After a bit of a think I decided to attach the main earth cable that comes direct from the battery straight to the engine via another clutch housing bolt. Doing it this way meant I didn't have to worry about an engine earth cable, and I could just bolt earths to certain points on the engine, plus it also meant I could mount the solenoid on the transfer case and not have to worry about earthing that either. So thats what I've done. Only after fitting the battery, I got one click from the solenoid then nothing. A quick trace with the multimeter found it was the solenoid at fault, so swapped that for spare and the engine span a couple of times on the starter! :cry: So at least I know I'm getting somewhere.

Hopefully my order from Minispares will turn up tomorrow and I'll be able to fit the carb needle, then fit the carb to the engine and possibly fire up the engine at the weekend. Although will have to keep reminding myself to tighten the sump plug and fill with oil!!!

Interesting, when the ignition was on, the sidelights came on. Nothing too surprising you might think, only the headlights aren't earthed yet, and there is no headlight switch plugged in...

Posted Image

To be honest, its not the best use of space, and I don't think I have any clutch housing bolts left without something attached to them, but it does make it quite easy to work on still.

#504 paulrockliffe

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 08:58 PM

My earth cable runs to the subframe mount in the drivers footwell, then the engine and all the electronics are eartherd to the subframe. It's so obvious to take the earth cable directly to the engine that I've always been surprised it wasn't done that way in the first place.

When I fit my dash everything will be earthed to a block behind the dash, then I'll run a cable from the block to the subframe mount to complete the circuit.

#505 *Raz*

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 09:32 PM

Keep up the good work babes

Neaaaaaaaarly as good as Monty, but not quite!!

Its going to be great when its done :cry:

And as you drove Razda, I get a drive of this :dontgetit:

mwah :thumbsup: xXx

#506 RobJaxon

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Posted 25 April 2008 - 01:58 PM

alot more to do though!

when do you think it will be ready

#507 Jammy

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Posted 25 April 2008 - 02:03 PM

There certainly is. Hope to have the engine running this weekend, and to have started work on the cooling system. I've managed to blag next Thursday and Friday off work, which was quite a feat as I'm snowed under currently. So that gives me 5 days in which to get it ready for an MOT.

L2B is on the 17th, so need to have it in an MOTable condition either the week after next, or the week after that. It won't be finished for months yet though.

#508 Pie

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Posted 25 April 2008 - 02:25 PM

months, years lol

You going to paint the engine at all jammy? Thought you might have done that before you put it on the subframe. Would have made it look a lot tidier, but all in all its coming along.

#509 Jammy

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Posted 25 April 2008 - 02:28 PM

Paint!!!? Who needs paint? Does the engine need paint to run? Noooooo! :) In which case its just a luxury that adds weight. :xxx:

#510 Bungle

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Posted 25 April 2008 - 04:06 PM

does that mean you and raz will be doing the L2B run naked to save weight ?




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