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Rusty The Minus (aka Mr Hoskins)


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#511 Jammy

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Posted 25 April 2008 - 07:29 PM

Its annoying that fibreglass doesn't burn!! :o ;D :-

#512 Pie

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Posted 25 April 2008 - 07:35 PM

im sure me and a couple of mates could easily find a way of setting it alight.

#513 Jammy

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 09:24 AM

Haven't got any pics of this update, but should have later on.

Basically, cooling this engine is now not my only major problem, Currently I have no way of fuelling it either!

I got the new carb needle through from Minispares yesterday, fitted it to my HIF44, then came to fit it to the engine. Couldn't get it to the back of the engine because of lack of room. So split the carb from the manifold, got the manifold on, still couldn't get the carb on. Took off the filter, still couldn't get it on to the studs. Took the studs out, got the carb on, but it was hitting the bulkhead, and there is no room for the filter. Took the carb spacer off. Got the carb on, wasn't hitting the bulkhead, but still little room for the filter, and now the throttle backplate and the throttle spindle/ear are fouling the manifold!

Really don't know what I'm going to do at this point.

#514 Ethel

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 09:27 AM

Haven't got any pics of this update, but should have later on.

Basically, cooling this engine is now not my only major problem, Currently I have no way of fuelling it either!

I got the new carb needle through from Minispares yesterday, fitted it to my HIF44, then came to fit it to the engine. Couldn't get it to the back of the engine because of lack of room. So split the carb from the manifold, got the manifold on, still couldn't get the carb on. Took off the filter, still couldn't get it on to the studs. Took the studs out, got the carb on, but it was hitting the bulkhead, and there is no room for the filter. Took the carb spacer off. Got the carb on, wasn't hitting the bulkhead, but still little room for the filter, and now the throttle backplate and the throttle spindle/ear are fouling the manifold!

Really don't know what I'm going to do at this point.


Cry??

#515 Jammy

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 09:30 AM

I was close to it last night! ;D Normally I've very determined/stubborn, refuse to let something get the better or me, but last night I just stopped and gave up, called it a night.

Stupid Z Cars subframe, with awesome suspension and great handling at the cost of being able to fit anything else! :-

#516 THE STIG

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 10:06 AM

Its annoying that fibreglass doesn't burn!! :o ;D :-



are you mad of course it burns ( well the plastic does leaving a big pile of fibre glass matt )

as for the casrb use a adjustable engine steady so can tilt the engine forward slighty gaining more room for the carb/air filter !!!!!

#517 Jammy

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 10:10 AM

Already done that. I have the KAD adjustable engine steady. With the Z Cars subframe I think it moves the engine back, or tilts it back slightly, because I had to shorten the rose joints on the engine steady to get the whole thing short enough to get it to fit. I had to really pull the engine forward, against the will of the engine mounts to fit it too, and that was with the engine steady really short. So now I've wound the engine steady out a bit the engine is now sat at a position that is going to constantly stress the engine mounts, so I'm beginning to worry about how long they are going to last...

#518 Ethel

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 10:13 AM

http://www.burlen.co...?sideLinkID=131.

In case you weren't aware they aren't all the same thickness. You might be able to alter the throttle linkage too - could you flip the lever upside down and route the cable from underneath? On my turbo carb the lever is on the opposite end of the spindle to the choke. Taking a file to the manifold could give you a few millimetres too. If you attempt any tilting to create clearance, do it at the insulator spacer: that will confine any chopping to one cheap and easily replaced component. It will also tilt the dashpot more forwards than up to avoid creating another clearance issue.

It's not difficult to cut out a section of fibreglass, space it in or out of the panel, then glass it back in. Just use plasticine to create a good radius across any gaps though often just spacing by the thickness of the moulding creates enough room and a generous chamfer on the back of the cutout is all that is needed to create a good bond across the join.

#519 THE STIG

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 10:13 AM

Already done that. I have the KAD adjustable engine steady. With the Z Cars subframe I think it moves the engine back, or tilts it back slightly, because I had to shorten the rose joints on the engine steady to get the whole thing short enough to get it to fit. I had to really pull the engine forward, against the will of the engine mounts to fit it too, and that was with the engine steady really short. So now I've wound the engine steady out a bit the engine is now sat at a position that is going to constantly stress the engine mounts, so I'm beginning to worry about how long they are going to last...


what inlet maifold you using ?

have had this problem on normal steel bodied car due the the manifolds

#520 Jammy

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 10:19 AM

Yea, I had thought about flipping the throttle bit, was going to try that when I get home in a bit. Unfortunately I used about 10 gaskets to work out the thickness of spacer I'd need. With 10 the throttle bracket and spindle/ear cleared the manifold, but then the filter still didn't fit... :-

I'm using an alloy manifold, not sure who its by though...

#521 Ethel

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 10:25 AM

You could make an appeal for a TMF manifold measuring session, could be a useful resource - I've got a Mg Metty one kicking round somewhere.

Can't you sneak the whole engine forwards in the subframe with a round file?

Edited by Ethel, 26 April 2008 - 10:27 AM.


#522 Bungle

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 01:20 PM

if your carb wont fit could you go for a down draft webber ?

or can you cut and modify the bulk head thats in the way ?

#523 Jammy

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Posted 26 April 2008 - 01:37 PM

I did think about cutting the scuttle panel, but I'd rather not keep cutting pieces out of my shell...

After a few hours of modifying various parts I think I've got the HIF44 to fit. Need to do a bit more modifying tomorrow so we'll see.

I did have the options of going to twins, downdraught Weber or going completely with an EFi system like Megasquirt or VEMs and using throttle bodies...

#524 *Raz*

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Posted 28 April 2008 - 12:06 AM

does that mean you and raz will be doing the L2B run naked to save weight ?

No bloomin way!!

Anyway, we dont need to save weight in Monty (as thats what car he is clearly going to be in because his wont be done :) )

#525 Jammy

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Posted 28 April 2008 - 07:57 AM

Well I'm glad you all have faith in me!! :thumbsup:

Got the carb on yesterday after a few hours of modding! :) This entailed:
  • Taking the carb spacer off
  • Doubling up the gaskets
  • Changing the studs for clutch cover bolts, and then elongating the holes in the carb to get the bolts in
  • Bending the throttle braket to clear a take off on the manifold
  • Bending the throttle ear
  • Filing away metal from the throttle ear
  • Filing metal from the manifold
See, simple! :P

Then I had to take out the dizzy drive cog and refit it in the correct position, swap the HT leads around into correct order, take off the fuel pipe off the carb and put it on the right inlet, refit the crank pulley bolt after I left a socket and rachet on it when I was trying to start it and it undid itself!

Unfortunately it didn't want to start yesterday, but I'm not too worried about it at this point, I only very roughly set up the timing and mixture, so I can do them more accurately tonight, and fit the exhaust, and then have another go. But I'm getting there, slowly....
  • Wire up engine
  • Fit carb after buying a fitting correct needle
  • Fit thermostat and housing
  • Fit oil filter housing properly
  • Fit heater tap
  • Fit dizzy cap, HT leads and coil
  • Mount washer bottle
  • Fit front brake pipes
  • Change front brake calipers
  • Get shorter fan pulley bolts
  • Fit exhaust (basically just the link pipe into the Y piece)
  • Fit gear linkage
  • Setup suspension angles
  • Fit engine steadies (might need to buy the one that bolts to the water pump)
  • Fit rear roll cage (needs modifying)
  • Fit harnesses
  • Modify drivers seat subframe
  • Fit DD2 lite
  • Sort out doors (big job)
  • Work out where radiator is going and plumb in
  • Fit arches
  • Change headlights
  • [s]Fit battery
  • [s]Mount solenoid





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