1498 replies to this topic

[minivanman]

Not really worth going for big power out of a 998 - I've done it and its just not worth the effort when you could be doing it to a 1275.

[AndrewJ530]

Okay that´s getting expensive! I´ll just stick with a straight forward rebuild, maybe just stick twin HS2s on there and be done with it.

I´m still in Sweden so yeah, no progress

I don't think twin hs2's will make much difference unless you port your head bud. Might make it pick up smoother but i don't think it will give any gain in performance unless you take some chunks out of the head .

[analogue_radio]

Just for looks really my 998 before was fast enough for me, not really concerned about bhp.. just want a nice smooth engine that runs sweetly.

I'll give it some proper thought when I get home.

[AndrewJ530]

Unless you can set the carbs up yourself your going to need a rolling road. That's the only cost i can think of if you port the head. It just gives you a bit more poke if you need it. If you do decide to do some head work, get a decent drill bit. The ones i have are rubbish and it's taking ages lol.

Edited by AndrewJ530, 08 July 2009 - 04:27 PM.

[analogue_radio]

I'm back

[mighty mini jack]

You have a good time?

We didn't even spam your thread while you were gone

[dm91dm]

Where you looking for a stainless steel bumper?

[analogue_radio]

Amazing time Jack! I'll post a few photos when I get them uploaded.

& dm, nope wasn't me

Tomorrow might be a mini day.. depends what time I get.. but yeah next thing on the list is get everything prepared for sandblasted and have it sandblasted.

[analogue_radio]

12A1175 RUBBER TAPPET CHEST GASKET x2 £0.96 £1.92
GPS133 OIL PRESSURE SWITCH,MINI AND METRO x1 £3.90 £3.90
GTR101 TEMPERATURE TRANSMITTER 1970 on same as GTR143 x1 £4.00 £4.00
GUG705779 GM MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP GASKET. x1 £0.52 £0.52
12A1176 BUSH TAPPET CHEST COVER x2 £1.00 £2.00
TOOL07 SUSPENSION CONE COMPRESSOR TOOL METRIC THREAD ONLY x 1 £15.19 £15.19

& he's back in the game away again 27th to the 31st, but hopefully if this order turns up in time I'll easily have everything stripped. Need to get in touch with James & borrow his flywheel puller.. so I may even have the gearbox off as well before I go

[newdawn1st]

Nice! I was advised I maybe better off looking at getting the subbys galvanized as powdercoating chips, guess it depends on cost though...... like always lol

Found this, gives details on coating types with approx. costs, pros, cons, etc.
The company is up in scotland tho and don't know what sort of work they take on but it seems to give a nice reference for coating work and relative costs etc even if you find somewhere else to get it done.

Apologies for kind of spamming your thread too

Simon

ps keep up the good work

[analogue_radio]

Nah that's brilliant Newdawn!

http://www.higalv.co...galvanizing.asp

Seems to be the winner & doesn't appear to be that expensive, considering how long it'll last & it 'self-heals'.. well worth the cost.

But looking at the process it needs to be Chemically cleaned beforehand, which will cost as well.

[newdawn1st]

Well my understanding that the chemical cleaning was part of the whole process therefore the whole price. What I have found out though is that it does need to be cleaned of heavy deposits, but I suppose you could do that yourself before to was sent off (would suspect this the case with any process tho).

With regards to subframes and galvanising there may be a problem

Since the process involves subjecting materials to extremely high temperatures, it is critical that our clients’ materials are fabricated with no sealed tubes, blind corners or any other potentially explosive areas. Customers should ensure that materials are free from all welding *woman of ill repute*, heavy grease and paint from the products, as these will not be dislodged by pre-treatment chemicals.

(from a different site but still applies)

Don't know how much this applies to subframes

As for the 'self heal' it, found this

Zinc coatings prevent corrosion of the protected metal by forming a physical barrier, and by acting as a sacrificial anode if this barrier is damaged. When exposed to the atmosphere, zinc reacts with oxygen to form zinc oxide, which further reacts with water molecules in the air to form zinc hydroxide. Finally zinc hydroxide reacts with carbon dioxide in the atmosphere to yield a thin, impermeable, tenacious and quite insoluble dull grey layer of zinc carbonate which adheres extremely well to the underlying zinc, so protecting it from further corrosion, in a way similar to the protection afforded to aluminium and stainless steels by their oxide layers.

edit: lol @ swear filter and its interpretation of waste metal from welding^^

Edited by newdawn1st, 18 July 2009 - 12:42 PM.

[analogue_radio]

James dropped round the Flywheel puller yesterday, tomorrow is a fully secured mini day

Haven't got a clue how to use it though

[analogue_radio]

Managed to get back out on the mini late afternoon started with making a silly mistake of missing a part out on the puller, so I stripped the thread a tiny bit on the crank.. hopefully isn't a problem! but once I'd realised that, I popped the clutch off easily without any problems & carried on stripping down that side, undid all the bolts between the gearbox & block and got stuck there.. what do I do next? I can't shift the two sections, do I need to do something with the timing chain?

Some pictures,

[Nickh_16]

Fair play....white boy's got gaaaaaaame! That engine is looking sweet.