Had to split this post as there were too many pictures.
Stripped down the distributor as it was also grimy.
Scrubbed up well though.
Reinstalled the rotor shaft.
Chucked the points and replaced them with a Britpart electronic ignition module.
I've always loved the 4-spoke Revolution wheels on a Mini. I am however fairly adamant about keeping the Mini special arches that came standard on Elliot, I think the width is just right. That essentially means I need 5" wide wheels and unfortunately they've not made 4-spoke Revolution wheels in 10x5 in quite a number of years. I've had a saved search on eBay for a few years now and I've only ever seen two sets in decent condition. I won the second set.
They really are in great shape and they'll do great as a second set of wheels. What I was unable to notice from the auction though is that these are actually 2 genuine Revolution wheels and 2 copies.
The Revolution wheels have 'REVOLUTION WHEELS' and 'MADE IN ENGLAND' cast in to the spokes. You'll also notice each spoke has a strengthening rib running from the mounting face to the rim of the wheel.
The other two have no markings and are missing the strengthening rib. The incredible thing about the wheels is that other than those two details being absent, the casting is near identical, even the casting risers around the perimeter of the wheel on the rear face are in the same positions. It does make me wonder if they are genuine but from an earlier year.
Along side the engine work I've also been working on the cars electrics, cleaning and checking for faults. When I went to remove the stalk assembly from the steering column for cleaning and refurb I found it was very loose on the column. A closer inspection revealed the cause.
The collar that holds it to the shaft had snapped next to where the screw tightens down to apply tension.
I drilled a small hole for a short screw in the collar and replaced it with a piece of a CV boot retainer.
The metal now takes the tension and pulls the collar in as it would have previously. I'll glue the broken off foot back in place after everything is cleaned up.
Long time readers with excellent memories may recall that I've got a grille with the openings for driving lamps stored away. However, I've no interest in melting the wiring loom by adding additional load to the already under-protected lighting circuit so I drew up a wiring diagram for an additional headlight module.
Headlight wiring diagram.
This will go further than just not adding the load of driving lamps to the high beam circuit. Instead it will reduce the load going through the light switch and the low/high beam switch on the stalks. By using the existing circuit as a signal to operate relays controlling the actual light circuit it should be much less stress on the switches.
Additionally, this will separate the left and right sides so that failure of one component won't resulting in driving blind. The failure modes I've identified of the above are:
- Single fuse failure - Lose low and high beam on one side
- Single relay failure - Lose low or high beam on one side
Unfortunately, if either switch fails, I'll still lose all my lights. However it would be a situation that could be mitigated at the side of the road with a jumper wire in place of a relay in order to get home. Even with this, it's a lot better than the existing system.
I also plan to 'delete' the pink relay as I don't want the dim/dip functionality. I've no intention of even re-installing the resistor on the passenger side tower brace.
Thanks for looking :).