217 replies to this topic

[MiniLandy]

Hahaha, just paint over it.

It doesn't say anything like that on my megajolt??

[mini.rich]

Hahaha, just paint over it.

It doesn't say anything like that on my megajolt??

Nah, my megajolt on my 1000 doesn't say anything either Can't paint it, looks to nice, ha

[george91]

Great work, i have been quitely following this. Good to see the engine finally in, whos going to map it?

[mini.rich]

Great work, i have been quitely following this. Good to see the engine finally in, whos going to map it?

Thanking you sir It's taken a while hasn't it It's already pre mapped to the engine spec, but when its on the road I'll be taking it back to SC to have them check its running at optimum

[george91]

Good stuff, that makes life easier. please get a video once you have it up and running, really want to hear that.

[MJWarren]

Looking good mate!, i could be asking you some questions if i get stuck on putting mine in. Similar spec too.

Have you done a gearing chart for yours yet? as in speeds in each gear? I drew one up for my 3.2 diff if youd like the figures?

Matt

[mini.rich]

Good stuff, that makes life easier. please get a video once you have it up and running, really want to hear that.

Haha, I will do

Looking good mate!, i could be asking you some questions if i get stuck on putting mine in. Similar spec too.

Have you done a gearing chart for yours yet? as in speeds in each gear? I drew one up for my 3.2 diff if youd like the figures?

Matt

No problems, I'll help where I can

Not done a gearing chart, I used a graph plotter on guessworks website? gives you the speeds at different revs and different gears. - Clicky, Would be interesting to see it though.

Might aswell show you what I did manage to do at work today, I'd planned on making the rad mounts but some inconsiderate person had left a half finished job in the lathe! So instead I made some clamps for the ECU to sit on the original rover bracket, just used some cut down DIN rail and rubber to sit between the bracket and ECU, thanks to work for the materials Just need a lick of paint=]

[mini.rich]

So, it's getting there now, I placed an order for a few final items including some bits for the exhaust and uprated radiator, and it was not cheap
After work I spent a couple of hours turning some mounts for the radiator and alternator out of some "scrap" aluminium



The idea is to shift the rad across, up and slightly forward, out the way of the starter motor and away from the alternator, two parts I made sit in the cups on the subframe and two sit on the rubber feet, I may slightly modify these parts tomorrow to lower it back down. I was going to weld them together now I've decided on the position they need to be, but I think I'll bolt them together so they can be adjustable.





The other parts I made are for the alternator and water pump so it's in the right position. Just need to make the spacer for the lower bracket.





And heres the space between the radiator and alternator, and my fingers, lol.

[mini.rich]

Another busy late night on the mini, but a very lucky/successful one! I was looking at buying a load of hose to pipe up the cooling which was going to cost somewhere in the range of £150, I wasn't looking forward to that because fitting this engine has just about drained all my savings! But after remembering there was a drum full of random hoses in the shed that my dad had left from his autojumble days I found enough shaped hose to make up pretty much all I need!

I've managed to use the MPi top and bottom hoses albeit that the top hose now goes under the rad and between the front of the subframe and the valance.



Top hose fits nicely, clears the starter etc and slides straight into the space, almost as if it was meant to!!



Hmm, nice clean header tank it will be when I get some scalebreaker from work I just need to buy a bracket for it.



I can see the end now

[mini.rich]

Back to the mini today and the headaches started straight away! lol.

But nevermind, I've got the route sorted out for the hoses, pretty much, the 'top' hose goes underneath the rad into the space between the front subframe and front panel. I forgot the thermostat the other day when piping it up, the route for the bottom hose is pretty much the same as standard.
Once I fitted the exhaust manifold it brought the incline of the engine forward, meaning everything at the front got alot closer giving me around 3-5mm clearance between the rad and alternator So I've had to take the some metal off the bonnet slam panel and upright to clear the rad and mountings, not what I wanted to do but it was needed. I'm not sure if the new uprated rad will fit but I've given myself a chance of it fitting by removing the bodywork.

The exhaust has got to come out again so I can wrap it with heat insulation tape, which is a shame because it looks soooo nice but I don't want the paint to burn. The lower gearbox steadys are fitted as is the gear linkage

I'm thinking I might run my Starmags now, but not sure. I've got to cut the bodywork whether I use them or the steelies

Clutch has been bled, and is very heavy compared to what it was! I'll get use to it, lol.

I've got to clean all the manky looking hoses and header tank, they're all brown and pooey looking.





I've also got to change the cambelt already, because it rubbed a bit on the lifting strap when I put it in and frayed the edge of the belt so i'm not risking anything.



I'm waiting on the rest of the exhaust, the rad and the cambelt before I can really do any more Hopefully it will turn up tomorrow. I still need to get a coil, leads and plugs, clips and joiners for the cooling and breather circuits, I might buy some pipe and turn some joiners myself, it'll be a bit cheaper

I'll be doing loads this week in the mornings as I have to do holiday cover and work late shifts not good though as I won't even be able to get a lie in

[bruders 338]

who would want a lie in with a motor like that... looking good. as someone already said be good to get a video up when running.

keep up the good work

[mini.rich]

who would want a lie in with a motor like that... looking good. as someone already said be good to get a video up when running.

keep up the good work

Thanks! I will do I'll do some in car footage aswell

That is true but I've only just got in from work, and getting up at 7.30ish doesn't interest me, but I do want it finished!!! lol

I kinda spent most of my shift doing bits for the engine, because it was quiet

[dma550]

awesome project. Considering an SC twincam myself. How's the clearance with the bonnet on the head? Do you think you'll clear if you notch the bonnet ribs like SC says?

[mini.rich]

awesome project. Considering an SC twincam myself. How's the clearance with the bonnet on the head? Do you think you'll clear if you notch the bonnet ribs like SC says?

Thanksyou What clearance? lol. I think the bonnet actually touches the cam belt end of the head The X-brace needs to be removed from the steel bonnet, I have a fibreglass bonnet for this reason. I may need to get a 16v bulge bonnet...

[dma550]

awesome project. Considering an SC twincam myself. How's the clearance with the bonnet on the head? Do you think you'll clear if you notch the bonnet ribs like SC says?

Thanksyou What clearance? lol. I think the bonnet actually touches the cam belt end of the head The X-brace needs to be removed from the steel bonnet, I have a fibreglass bonnet for this reason. I may need to get a 16v bulge bonnet...

that's a mild inconvenience for me, I don’t want a new bonnet, esp. one with a big tell-tale bulge. On the same account, I don’t want to have to install an auto trans subframe or cobble together some engine mounts either.

So you think you’d have to remove the ribs and space the bonnet up to keep the stocker?