217 replies to this topic

[jameslearwood]

New goodies



just curious on peoples opinions on recycling, selling on old parts. I.e standard manifold, flywheel, timing chain and cogs (single), radiator.
I've got a few main bearings aka flywheel locking tools which i'll keep a couple but if any one wants any i'll send them out if they cover postage, come in handy for noobies who don't have any.

Also me dad reckons back in the day motortrader's would take back clutch plates to recondition with new liners, is this still true or is it for different clutch plates.

Edited by jameslearwood, 24 January 2012 - 03:08 PM.

[jameslearwood]

Going through the photobucket album this before and after made me smile.

[jameslearwood]

Right pistons are in and it turns with a lever in the crank catches slightly halfway but think that is just the rings working themselevs in or should it turn over really easy??

the end caps are put on so the lip to secure the bearing in the cap and con rod are on the same side opposite each other if that makes sense think im going to pop them off now and try them opposite way to see the difference.

[grahama]

Hi,

I have just been looking into piston ring end gap for my pistons as my rings are now obsolete. Anyway found some to fit at my local engine builder place. The end gap should be up to or around 15 tho, much bigger and you can, I have found out, get blow by and burn oil.

Have a look here at my thread

http://www.theminifo...n-ring-end-gap/

The one in your pic is wayyyyyyy to big.

Graham

[miniman92]

Graham, how do you know that the ring end gaps look "way too big" ...... The ring end gaps can only be measured when the rings are pushed squarely down the bore, when they are on the pistons they aren't compressed?

James...... have you checked the ring end gaps before assembly?

When you fit the rings to the pistons each ring should be placed so its gap is at 90 degrees to the gudgeon pin and each ring end gap should be rotated 180 degrees from the piston ring gap above and below it if that makes sence... eg rotate bottom oil scraper 90 degrees clockwise from gudgeon pin and then the top oil scraper ring 90 degrees anti clockwise so that the two gaps are spaced 180 degrees apart.... same applies fro 2nd and 1st compression rings.


Your crank will become harder to turn when you fit your pistons as the fricton builds up from the rings....... however any "tight spots need to be checked over..... either you have a cap on the wrong way round or your main bearing tunnels may be out of round.

Edited by miniman92, 24 January 2012 - 09:48 PM.

[jameslearwood]

Cheers graham thought I had read a post on it previously that was my thoughts but the engineer bought them specific to his measurements and checked them so installed the pistons and they compressed down nicely there's no side slop movement on pistons and the skirt is 1thou so going to leave them.
Main concern is the thrust for the crank float was tight so took it all off sanded Down with wet dry slotted in nicely no movement on the crank think it slightly to tight my feeler gauge is 1/1000 inch so which number am I looking for its 1 or 2 on the float? Turns smoothly with some effort now the pistons are in. What happens if the float is slightly tight?

[miniman92]

End float should ideally be between two and six thou, any less than two thou and the engine will stall when you depress the clutch. Really you need to use a dti, feeler gauges arent really accurate enough for my liking.

Edited by miniman92, 24 January 2012 - 10:05 PM.

[jameslearwood]

Cheers mini man like I said was all done by the engineer so should be okay.
I put the gaps spaced out so they aren't lined up roughly 120 not exact

By tight spots is that as you do a turn it gets slightly harder think its all good turned the caps around not much difference do the caps all go the same way as the first or each to their own.

I am sure the big ends are fine as it would be a bugger to move as I found out. The main there is a lip for the bearing these line up on the same bolt as each other on the outer edge if that makes sense or does this not matter

[jameslearwood]

End float should ideally be between two and six thou, any less than two thou and the engine will stall when you depress the clutch. Really you need to use a dti, feeler gauges arent really accurate enough for my liking.

Don't have access or funds for a DTI might look into one at some point, so to increase the gap I need to sand the thrusts down a bit more? been using 1200 grade might have to go coarser then work upto fine. So when Im finish should the crank have a tiny bit of movement horizontally

[miniman92]

The caps should be installed so that the tabs are on the same side.....have you fitted them like this?

[miniman92]

Are you using standard sized thrusts?

[jameslearwood]

Same side? By both around one bolt or both on different bolts but same side if that makes sense

[jameslearwood]

Yeah they have STD on them the one the engineer got out so assuming they are correct

[miniman92]

Both of the bearing notches go together on the same end but opposite sides so both around the same bolt yes. Are your thrusts new? Generally if standard thrusts are still too tight then the thrust surfaces on the crank need to be machined to compensate. Have you made sure the crank is fully pushed over to one side before using your feeler gauge? I personally wouldnt recommend using sand paper on the thrusts.

Edited by miniman92, 24 January 2012 - 10:38 PM.

[grahama]

Sorry wasn't thinking properly, miniman, you are indeed correct lol. It's the top ring that even out of the cylinder looks very big, way bigger than mine even without being in the cylinder. I would check it in there as you say.

Sorry for the confusion.

Graham, (obviously learning all the time lol !! )