217 replies to this topic

[miniman92]

If the standard thrusts are too tight (most unlikely) then you could take your thrusts and have them surface ground to achieve the correct thickness. Make sure your using a decent sized screwdriver when pushing the crank over, it may be that your not applying enough force against the crank web. I very much doubt that you have less than 2 thou with standard thrusts! If you can borrow a dti off someone this would help you out.

Edited by miniman92, 25 January 2012 - 09:30 AM.

[jameslearwood]

No worries graham kind of figured it out from your thread.
It has no horizontal movement on the crank with thrusts in might put the old one's back in just to compare the difference got tired and frustrated last night so will try again after work will post piccies cheers for you help

[jameslearwood]

Theres quite a few in fleabay for around £20 might just get one and do other jobs in the meantime. Which scale do I need on the gauge?

[miniman92]

This is what you need:

http://www.ebay.co.u...8#ht_7073wt_936

[jameslearwood]

Cheers miniman your a gentleman scholar I was looking at the mm ones think I'll make the investment.
If I get one can I check the float with the crank and pistons fully assembled?
If so I'll just spend some time modifying and painting the timing cover and reassembling the head.

[miniman92]

A dti is definitely a good investment, you'll need it later on anyway for timing in/checking your cam timing. To be honest James if it was me I would take the pistons out and remove the two end caps either side and just nip up the main cap so that it is firmly fastened but not fully toqued up and then check the end float, otherwise the crank will be really quite tight to push over to one side and you may get inaccurate readings with the dti.

It won't take you long to re-fit the pistons later on, it's worth doing it right rather than cutting corners.

Like you say....... Just take your time with it and spend some time prepping other bits while your waiting for the dti. You could always clean up your transfer case.... fit it to the gearbox and then measure your idler gear end float etc?

Ash

Edited by miniman92, 25 January 2012 - 12:56 PM.

[jameslearwood]

Aye it does sound like a plan not really the corners although i hate doing things twice more worried about damaging the rings and having to fork out for a new set but oh well will crack on
Cheers for your help Ash

[jameslearwood]

DTI ordered so next problem

when i was disconnecting the mind blank, tube/bar that the connects gearstick to diff on gearbox at the gearbox side it meets a shoulder union joint with two roll pins securing your meant to tap one out to release the bar and seperate. which i managed eventually one problem the drift i used was just too small and kind of snapped inside the roll pin making a perfect fit. Couldn't get it free when i had the engine out so figured just cut it down to the shoulder and bobs your uncle.... However i need to get the shoulder off to fit the minispares oil leak quick fix kit.... any ideas people tried drilling, heat and whacking kind off need to get the rod that goes into the diff free to put it into a vice to get the right angle and weight. however cant get the diff housing past the shoulder.....

[miniman92]

Not sure what you mean? Do you just want to get the bottom roll pin out in the picture above?

Have you not got the correct roll pin drift tool?

Try using a suitably sized drill bit (about 7-8mm) and put the chuck end against the roll pin and smack the other end with a good sized hammer. WD40 helps too! PS.... watch out for sparks when you hit the drill bit!

[jameslearwood]

No the drift i used was too small so i ended up hammering it through the roll pin and then it got jammed and i snapped it in the swearing fit afterwards ended up knocking out the other roll pin so it is now solid metal inside and won't budge.

[PhilipGCaldwell]

worth a try drilling out? I should imagine it would be difficult though. try using the right size punch to get the whole lot out, bloomin minis!

[jameslearwood]

Tried a drill bit for metal didn't make a dent, can't get the right position to drift it out with a good whack as the shoulder moves too much going to need a cunning plan

[PhilipGCaldwell]

figured a drill bit may not work

if all else fails........disc cutter, chisel and hammer get most things off, then you wiill have to buy a new connecting peice

[AndyMiniMad.]

You will probably need to drill that roll pin out. use a top quality bit and it will go through. The crank seems to get tighter when all 4 pistons are around the mid stroke in the bores and then a bit looser when at the top of the bores..This is normal and nothing to worry about. Glad your getting a DTI..your going to have so much fun measuring stuff..They really are easy to use, the trick is to get them zeroed properly before taking any readings..

[jameslearwood]

Think that could be a plan getting a better drill but will have a look but that problem is on the back burner my new DTI has arrived stunned it was there when I got back from work ordered it Wednesday night that is a fast turnaround was expecting it next week time to play.
Cheers Andy that is exactly what has been happening I put the Old thrusts in and it was the same just but nervous I get it wrong and the engine seizes up.