561 replies to this topic

[Ben_O]

Why so much filler Cliff?

 

Keep the angle of the spreader as shallow as you can and apply even pressure. Only use a plastic spreader and preferably a big one.

 

Get the filler on the panel and then go over it smoothing it over with the spreader. Not only will it save you time but it will save you alot of filler. You need to aim to smooth it over with broad strokes (a bit like plastering a wall)

 

What you may have been better doing is applying a smooth layer of filler just over the lower section of the panel over your repair and sand that first. That would then give you some build and a rough shape to then apply another layer over that feathering it onto the upper part of the panel.

 

By all means, use a DA to take that lot down but once you are at the stage of applying the final skim of filler, always rub it down using a large flat sanding block. I would use an 80 grit paper for rough shaping and finish off with a 180. Forget all of the working through the grades, its just pointless and a waste of money.

 

If you use the DA to do all of your sanding, it will be difficult to get a flat smooth finish and will save you no time or effort anyway.

 

Infact i would just use a block and 80 grit from the offset, will take you 5 mins to rub that down.

 

Good luck!

 

Ben

[phil hill]

While we are comparing Rigs then, here is a cheeky little pic of mine

 

I see your BBC model B (fully loaded, nice !!) and raise you a CPM Cypher, an Oric 1 and of course a Sinclair Spectrum (upgraded from 16 to 48K !!)

 

At school I built an X-Y turtle plotter for the Beeb as an A-Level project.

 

Anywho enough vintage computer reminiscing, back to the Mini's !! 

 

Phil.

[Ben_O]

Also, when using a block to rub down, avoid short stabbing strokes.

 

Work in broad strokes and change direction taking note of the vertical curve of the panel. 

 

Nice even strokes with medium pressure and check your work constantly as you go. It is very easy to rub it down too much and then have to apply more.

 

When i get a filler repair done in one application, i call it a chesney......

 

Ben

Edited by Ben_O, 28 August 2014 - 05:04 PM.

[rally515]

Hi Ben,

 

Well theres so much filler because I've never done it before, I haven't ever plastered either so that's no use explaining  .

 

I think i'm along the same lines as what you've said Ben and I've been feeling as I go with both my bare hands to get an idea of were I need it and were there is too much which needs bringing down.

 

One question, how good is filler primer, or high build primer might be the correct name, and also when i'm happy it's as smooth as I can get it should I buy some and spray it on & then rub down to fill any low points in ?

[jpw1275]

Hi cliff..... Yes waft some paint over when your ready matey so you can see imperfections etc....:0)

[jpw1275]

And yes high build primer is good also

[Ben_O]

High build primer will cover minor scratches and pin holes, It will not make up for wobbly filler.

 

Best to get it as straight as you can with the 80 grit and then use 180 to smooth it off

[rally515]

Thanks Guys,

 

I have two different grades of DA pads, the one that i'm using at the moment is the more course blue pad, and the other finer pad is white, not sure if the colour means anything to you guys but the course isn't exactly chomping it's way through so I guess that's a good thing, still....it's quicker and easier than doing it with the 80Grit and a rubber block!!!

 

I'll go and take a few photos now, just done what I hope to be the final layer before moving on to hand sanding and the imperfections.

[rally515]

Ok so here are some photos for you Ben and James, and whoever else wants to follow this beginners guide and fillering and sanding Haha.

 

 

It sure does create a mess!

[jpw1275]

Nice smiley face....:0)

I think you could do with a wider spreader buddy.... I have a metal one which is about 6" or abit bigger for larger areas and then go down in size to about 1" if that for more delicate areas

It's hard to see really of pictures but try and get a more of a side shot looking down the panel from the side so it shows the curve...:0)

Cheers j

Ps... I'm probably wrong tho lol

[jpw1275]

I tend to use the yellow rough as hell paper to rub down to nearly the right shape if that makes sense

[Ben_O]

It looks like you are getting some build now.

 

Obviously its impossible to advise to any depth because i can't feel you filler from here 

 

Firstly, i would avoid putting in small amounts of filler here and there and this will create mapping and edges which could show through.

 

The disadvantage of the DA is shown clearly in your picture. Like a sea of metal with filler iceburgs.

 

If you knock down the filler you have in the bottom and it feels like its not far out, then give the whole area a nice even thin skim and block it down carefully avoiding patches of metal showing through.

 

You need to aim for a thin even smooth filler skin over the whole lot

 

Ben

[Ben_O]

I would advise against a metal spreader, they are for putting polyfiller on walls in your house.

 

You need to use a plastic one on your car to get it in nicely. You can get one that is about 5" x 3"

 

As i said above, get yourself a roll of 80 grit, about a fiver on eBay or a tenner from toolstation (it's green in colour) and rub it down with a block.

 

You could use some machined wood like MDF cut to a suitable size and a piece of suitable timber screwed to it to create a handle. then wrap the paper round it an secure to the top with drawing pins.

 

Ben

[rally515]

James, thankyou, the Spreader i'm using I think is an all rounder for the majority of jobs.

I'll try and get some photos down the length of the panel if I can tomorrow, going to pack up for tonight as the filler isn't setting as quickly and I would have liked to be sanding by now but got the keep the neighbours happy I guess.

 

Ben, I should hop you wouldn't dare touch me Filler!!!  .

Yeah I understand the sea and iceberg thing, I know by feel that the whole top left corner and lower corner need to be brought right back down as the filler is creating a high point and is effectively just creating a problem rather than filling anything!

 

I have some of the Yellow 80 Grit sheets you've both mentioned so think i'l stick another cut off in the sanding block and get to work tomorrow, i'l focus on the lower section as, after all, that's the area this work is mostly aimed at.

[jpw1275]

Why would you not use metal spreaders Ben ? I got mine from a bodyshop

Cheers James