102 replies to this topic

[Nick Warwick]

I think that's the problem solved why the flywheel didn't turn with the crank, bolt wasn't even tight.

How do you guys get a good grip on the bolt after a socket can't tighten anymore due to the sleeve around the crank?

[Nick Warwick]

Are the keyway slot and clutch slots supposed to be aligned? The keyway won't fit into the crank at the moment, is this what's causing it?

Cheers

[MIGLIACARS]

yes should be aligned

 

and a washer key goes into the slots

[MIGLIACARS]

sat looking at one now

[Nick Warwick]

Can I re align them while the flywheel is on or am
I going to have to remove the flywheel?

Cheers

[KernowCooper]

Flywheel should turn if not use the puller

 

Post 17 I thought it sounded like the locator on the crank nose, your glad now you didnt put the unit in, anyway your on the road to fixing the problem.

Edited by KernowCooper, 28 September 2013 - 06:29 PM.

[bpirie1000]

The washer key should only go in one way.... Is it slightly off centre.

[Nick Warwick]

I tried turning it with a flat blade screwdriver in the starter motor hole but it didn't move by the looks of it, I will give it another try but if not I will just use a puller.
I put the keyway in both ways but not even a hammer tap could locate it, asif its too big?

Cheers

[KernowCooper]

Have a look at the edges of the key is it damaged ? should tap in

[rubinio]

Just to reiterate some of the points from above...

Flywheel bolt isn't tight, you have a big issue with turning the engine over, id have big concerns about what else hasn't been done correctly during the engine build. Engine should be stripped down for peace of mind at the very least. Taking it to bits now will cost time and a set of gaskets, rebuilding it later on could be hugely expensive especially if it runs a bearing or chucks a rod. Engines should turn over freely by hand, even with the plugs in you should be able to turn it with a relatively short ratchet, if you need to instigate a big bar to make it move something has coroded internally (the contacting surfaces should be well lubed during build so shouldn't corode in the 4months it has been sat)or clearances on bearings or rings are far too tight.

[Nick Warwick]

Just to reiterate some of the points from above...

Flywheel bolt isn't tight, you have a big issue with turning the engine over, id have big concerns about what else hasn't been done correctly during the engine build. Engine should be stripped down for peace of mind at the very least. Taking it to bits now will cost time and a set of gaskets, rebuilding it later on could be hugely expensive especially if it runs a bearing or chucks a rod. Engines should turn over freely by hand, even with the plugs in you should be able to turn it with a relatively short ratchet, if you need to instigate a big bar to make it move something has coroded internally (the contacting surfaces should be well lubed during build so shouldn't corode in the 4months it has been sat)or clearances on bearings or rings are far too tight.

 

I can now turn the engine with a 12" bar and some force so its still tight. I think like most of you have said it will probably be best to check the rest of the engine for problems after having these already.

 

Once the flywheel is off the crank casing should then just unbolt and the gearbox then i have clear access to the crank? never stripped an engine down this far.

 

Thanks for the help so far guys.

[KernowCooper]

Once the Flywheel is off then the transfer casing is unbolted from the block and gearbox, If you have not done one before then I'd get a manual if you dont have one, to highlight all  the bits to watch out for on reassembly.

[Nick Warwick]

Ok cheers, what good manual would you recommend?

[KernowCooper]

Haynes manual but one of the older ones as they have more spec in than the later ones

[Nick Warwick]

The plot thickens! curse my life!