9 replies to this topic

[Welderanged]

Hi everyone,

 

I am currently working on my 76 Mini saloon 998. I want to put in a 1275 in the future when I can afford it with a Weber DCOE. I want to put in the weber box now that I don’t have the seats and carpet etc in yet, so they don’t get damaged by the grinding and welding. I know most people here aren’t really fond of the weber in Mini’s but this is something I’m sure about.

 

So I was wondering, does anyone have some clear photo’s on how they rerouted the loom and do I need to cut and resolder if so where and how?

 

thanks

[Ethel]

If it has a centre speedo you're going to have to relocate that anyway.

[Welderanged]

If it has a centre speedo you're going to have to relocate that anyway.

 

yeah it has one originally but I’m going to put it behind the wheel when I’m going to make a custom dash, I mean specifically the bit of the loom that normally goes through the big centre hole in the firewall behind the centre speedo. How do people make that work with the air box?

[Ethel]

Isn't it  just wiring coming from the inside out to the fuse box & wipers? Wouldn't have though it would be hard fit a hole in for the original grommet.

[johnR]

Probably best to cut your new hole for the loom to the passenger side of the weber box or you may not have enough length to join the rear loom?   

[Compdoc]

To make a neat job of it, you need to unplug all the wires that go through the bulkhead to the engine bay, (take some pictures if you are not sure where they go), and pull the lot inside the car. Then unwrap the cable covering until you can see the individual wires. Cut a new hole in the bulkhead and temporarily feed the individual wires through. Some will be too long and some too short, so you may have to adjust the length by cutting pieces out or adding pieces in. Don't forget to use the same size and colour wire, solder and heat wrap each individual wire. Then rewrap the loom.

This is not a quick job, but at the end of the day you will have a loom that looks like it was made that way.

You can get wire by the metre from https://www.12voltpl...pper-cable.html

Edited by Compdoc, 11 August 2021 - 09:09 AM.

[Spherix]

Isn't it  just wiring coming from the inside out to the fuse box & wipers? Wouldn't have though it would be hard fit a hole in for the original grommet.

 

If op drives a LHD car (seeing his location is The Netherlands), the wiper motor is on the RHD side of the car. I reckon there's not much more than a blinker relay hanging around on his car on the LHD side of the car, and the loom going to the centre clock.

[Welderanged]

 

Isn't it  just wiring coming from the inside out to the fuse box & wipers? Wouldn't have though it would be hard fit a hole in for the original grommet.

 

If op drives a LHD car (seeing his location is The Netherlands), the wiper motor is on the RHD side of the car. I reckon there's not much more than a blinker relay hanging around on his car on the LHD side of the car, and the loom going to the centre clock.

 

Yes that is correct. I was working on the car today and was wondering if it isn’t easier to only cut and extend the rear loom running through the roof? Much less cables to cut and resolder, and less chance of things going wrong   

 

and then cut a hole in the righthand side of the firewall, and put the cables that go to the dash and switches through there. job done?

 

or would that not work because of something I’m missing?

Edited by Welderanged, 16 August 2021 - 11:16 PM.

[Spherix]

I have done a similar mod by making the connections from front to back a single 12-pin connector which sits inside the car behind the dash. You do need to expose the wiring itself to be able to reroute it, and then tape it up again. Most if not all connections to the back come from around the dashboard anyway.

[Welderanged]

I have done a similar mod by making the connections from front to back a single 12-pin connector which sits inside the car behind the dash. You do need to expose the wiring itself to be able to reroute it, and then tape it up again. Most if not all connections to the back come from around the dashboard anyway.

That was exactly my idea, good to know it’ll work, thanks