Flubber!
#706
Posted 24 March 2008 - 06:21 PM
#707
Posted 24 March 2008 - 06:55 PM
Well thats ok then, all that area seems fine.I check the endfloat before fitting rods and the rest of the gubbins, the primeary gear will have its own measurment and if you dont have that right it will eat the gear its self.
So need to get a DTI now, so I can accuratly measure the end float, once I get that, I can fit it all back together...
#708
Posted 24 March 2008 - 07:43 PM
Edited by Rosslin Racing, 24 March 2008 - 07:44 PM.
#709
Posted 24 March 2008 - 07:50 PM
I am prob making it sound a bigger job then it actually is, but I just want to make sure I've got it right. I don't fancy ripping it all out yet again.
So let me just get it right...
To check end flaot, I only need the crank, and caps on... (I have pistons etc in place already)
Guessing I would of known about it if the gap between the primary gear and crank was wrong by a massed thrust?
Also, do you think the fact I never set the clutch plunger stop nut, correctly would of cuased the thrusts to go the way they have?
#710
Posted 24 March 2008 - 08:14 PM
Ok take the rods off the crank put a stout bar in between crank and block and lever as far as it will go then measure, new bearing on the thrust side and old on the non side. put you corrected thrust in should the gap be to small you can clean the bearings up on an oil stone the steel side. put your rods on check the play on them as well so you dont get binding at high revs. got your engine back together the set the clutch properly its only takes a few minutes.
basic stuff: check all moving engine parts for the right tolerance beforehand.
good luck
#711
Posted 24 March 2008 - 08:20 PM
The clutch plunger stop setting will have put extra force on the thrusts yes. check all the oilways in the crank etc while its out, to rule out that oil starvation wasn't the problem though. did the engine have good oil pressure with a new oil pump.
Nearly there now mate
#712
Posted 24 March 2008 - 08:26 PM
Well its a brand new crank, which I had to tidy up slightly... but oil pressure was iaround 100psi when cold, but after a good run, it'll drop to about 50-60psi. But I think this is slightly too high?
Its got a new oil pump, new ball bearing and spring oil pressure valve, oil ways were all clean etc... I will check to see if it was oil starvation, I doubt it though for some reason...
Also, while I think about it, there was some oil within the clutch area, small pool in the bottom, where the split pin drain plug jobbie is, and some items were in a very very light mist of oil over them... is this normal?
#713
Posted 26 March 2008 - 10:17 PM
#714
Posted 26 March 2008 - 10:38 PM
#715
Posted 26 March 2008 - 10:43 PM
Well been ringing around again todayThis has totally bamboozled me. What has gone wrong here and what is the crank endfloat? How can the gaps be adjusted on the crank. Just need to know what you are on about before I build mine, which I am bricking it in case it goes wrong.
I finally bought myself a DTI
Anyways, end float needs to be 0.004" - 0.005" I am going for 0.005". To adjust the gap, you need to get yourself a flat surface, (I am using a old Mini quaterlight window), some 800grit wet n dry, used with WD40 or Duck oil, and carefully just rub one of the faces (the back pref) and keep checking the size of the thurst, this way, you are litrally, taking shaves off, which is what u want.
What I can see went wrong, is I had not adjusted the stop nut correctly, thus letting the clutch bind more than it needed, putting extra pressure on the thrusts. Meaning they were being eatten very quickly, this meaning I had a slight build up of waste thrust on the corner of one thrust, making the End float smaller, in turn making the engine bind up.
So this time round, I have bought myself some genuine AE thurst washers, a DTI gauge that does 0.001" incraments. I am going to build the short engine up, and see what I have without touching the thrusts, if its not reading what I want it to read, then I'll tweak the thursts until I get the reading I want. Once this is done, I'll rebuild the enigne, time the new PH3 cam in, and while the enigne is out, do my tappets too, as I have now gone down from 1.5:1 rockers to 1.3:1 Cooper S Forged Rockers.
Once this is all complete I need to change one engine mount as one of the captive nuts has threaded, I might also ttreat the engine to another coat of paint too.
Also, while the engine is out, I am going to fit a pre-pump fuel filter, and tea cut the engine bay a bit, seems the short 50miles I have done, and discoloured the paint a bit
Another thing I want to do it change the thermostat, to a 88degree, as I am currently running a 74degree, and the engine just wasn't even getting warm enough... all the worries that it'll overheat bit me a little lol
Again, reassembale, moving a few things, altering a few things (mainly in the qiuest for tartness) and bobs your uncel, with a properly set clutch stop set, fa**y will be your aurt too
#716
Posted 27 March 2008 - 05:40 PM
I recived my new cam
The centre cap is back on, just need to wait for the DTI to arrive in zee post
I've also had a PM from Bert998, with some news on my headlining and custom door cards, and all I can say is WOW!!! Not seen them in person yet, but looking at the Photos my new interoir is going to be bob on
Not posting pics yet, as I want to complete the inside before showing off
#717
Posted 27 March 2008 - 08:46 PM
#718
Posted 28 March 2008 - 07:20 PM
Unfortunatly, I won't be here most of the weekend
#719
Posted 30 March 2008 - 07:59 PM
anyways, went from this....

and alot of measuring, and acuratly dialing in the cam etc, new rockers, and adjusting tappets later, and I am left with this once again....
#720
Posted 30 March 2008 - 08:17 PM
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