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Help Electronic Ignition/ Coil

electrical engine

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#1 Mini_25_Luke

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 06:27 PM

hi everyone

i own a 1984 mini 25 998 cc

ive recently installed a half stage one kit but i didnt install the cone air filter, so now i have a lcb manifold, we also did a complete service replacing the coil for a lucus sports coil, new lucus ht leads, NGK spark plugs, air filter, we then installed an electronic ignition and distributer cap, after installing these we found that the mini had lost power, so we thought that the problem was comming from the carb however after taking apart the carb and giving it a thorough clean and installing a new jet and spring the performance was improved slightly, but still had a lack in power from before the installlation, so we then took the electronic ignition out and replaced it with the old points system, this improved it massively, but after 7 miles the mini started missing, so we put this down to the points breaking in, so we checked the gap and the gap was out so we set it up again at the correct gap, after it running realy well for a few seconds then it started missing again, then stopped, when looking under the bonnet we found that the gap had closed, after setting it up serveral times and it missfiring and closing, we didnt know what to do, so we took the distributer off completely cleaned it inside out, but found it missed on tick over.

heres the most important bit and where we need help

we contacted wood and pickett and they said to look at the coil, and if when the points had closed and it measured 12 volts accross the coil, then we could fit the sports coil that we had taken off due to fault finding, we did this and we found that when the point had closed it was 0 volts accross the coil, when looking at the wiring going in to the positive side of the coil we found the resistive pink and white lead twisted to yellow and white lead and extended with a black lead going to the positive side of the coil, which is why we never noticed the resistive wire before. this could have been why the electronic ignition didnt work.

so heres the question

can we replace the resitive pink and white lead for a normal lead and fit the new 12v coil, or do we have to do anything to the solenoid or anything else fed via the yellow and white lead?

#2 lrostoke

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 06:33 PM

Sports coils are normally 12v non ballast is it the dlb105

If so you do need to remove the white/pink wire and replace it with a new wire fed from the white wires on the fuse box.

Is the electronic ignition after market ??? 2 wires red and black ??

If so once you change the coil wiring, the dizzy just wires direct to the coil....red to positive, black to negative.

Also you say you didn't use the cone filter, if you kept the standard airbox you can buy K&N elements to fit in..

Edited by lrostoke, 27 March 2013 - 06:35 PM.


#3 KernowCooper

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 06:41 PM

You can run a new 12v ignition fed feed ( White Wire On Fuse Box) to the + side of the new coil and connect up the coil wiring from the electronic pickup and discard the ballasted wire as it serves no purpose on the new system.

So the new wiring on the 12v coil should be:
+ = 12v from ignition feed key on circuit and wire from new Electronic Pick Up in the distributor, most likely Red (check Instructions)
- = Wire from the new Ignition Pick Up< most likely Black (Check Instructions) and wire to tacho if fitted.

Edited by KernowCooper, 27 March 2013 - 06:42 PM.


#4 Mini_25_Luke

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 06:43 PM

Sports coils are normally 12v non ballast is it the dlb105

If so you do need to remove the white/pink wire and replace it with a new wire fed from the white wires on the fuse box.

Is the electronic ignition after market ??? 2 wires red and black ??

If so once you change the coil wiring, the dizzy just wires direct to the coil....red to positive, black to negative.


hi thanks for your reply

the coil is the dlb 105
the electronic ignition is the aftermarket powerspark ignition and it has one red and one black wire
do i only need to relace the pink and white wire or is there other changes to be made to convert it to 12 volts
thanks

#5 lrostoke

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 06:47 PM

thats all you need do replace the white/pink ...just follow what I said before.

#6 Mini_25_Luke

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 06:49 PM

thats all you need do replace the white/pink ...just follow what I said before.


ok thanks

#7 Mini_25_Luke

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 06:57 PM

You can run a new 12v ignition fed feed ( White Wire On Fuse Box) to the + side of the new coil and connect up the coil wiring from the electronic pickup and discard the ballasted wire as it serves no purpose on the new system.

So the new wiring on the 12v coil should be:
+ = 12v from ignition feed key on circuit and wire from new Electronic Pick Up in the distributor, most likely Red (check Instructions)
- = Wire from the new Ignition Pick Up< most likely Black (Check Instructions) and wire to tacho if fitted.


ok thanks for your help

#8 Mini_25_Luke

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 06:59 PM

another thing was do we have to change anything on the tacho

#9 lrostoke

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 07:16 PM

Didn't have to on mine, but I think some tachos are funny about electronic ignition..

Tacho is fed off the negative side of the coil, only thing you need do there is connect the blackwire from the dizzy, you may even find it plugs into the old connection wire for the points

#10 Mini_25_Luke

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Posted 27 March 2013 - 07:20 PM

Didn't have to on mine, but I think some tachos are funny about electronic ignition..

Tacho is fed off the negative side of the coil, only thing you need do there is connect the blackwire from the dizzy, you may even find it plugs into the old connection wire for the points


we'll try changing the wire and coil first leaving the original points, and at another time reinstall the electronic ignition, thanks so much for all your help

Edited by Mini_25_Luke, 27 March 2013 - 07:21 PM.


#11 Mini_25_Luke

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 09:45 AM

thanks everyone for all your help :-)

#12 KernowCooper

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 10:13 AM

Check if your Tacho is a RVI or RVC, RVIs dont work on electronic Ignition, where as RVCs do but some older Smiths RVCs now need rebuilding inside by Speedy Cables to make them reliable.

#13 Mini_25_Luke

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 10:45 AM

Check if your Tacho is a RVI or RVC, RVIs dont work on electronic Ignition, where as RVCs do but some older Smiths RVCs now need rebuilding inside by Speedy Cables to make them reliable.


how do you find what type the tacho is

#14 Mini_25_Luke

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 10:52 AM


Check if your Tacho is a RVI or RVC, RVIs dont work on electronic Ignition, where as RVCs do but some older Smiths RVCs now need rebuilding inside by Speedy Cables to make them reliable.


how do you find what type the tacho is


i just found it writen on the tacho it a smiths RVC

#15 KernowCooper

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 11:06 AM

I have a smiths RVC as well and its jumpy on electronic its due to the age of the electrical components on the board, speedy cables can repair them, but I put a Tim 80mm in mine as a replacement £40





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