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Cooked My 998 :(

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#16 AGRO_RB

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Posted 26 January 2014 - 03:27 AM

74 degree thermostat as the car was getting hot in traffic, it's summer here and most days have been in the mid 30's.

Why do minispares sell a 7lb cap if it's not the right one then? My car had a 7lb cap originally and had no issues. It was NZ assembled if.this makes a difference.

#17 AGRO_RB

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Posted 26 January 2014 - 03:29 AM

Yes fan is blowing through the radiator, plastic 12 blade fan still in place. The electric is merely an auxiliary, not a replacement.

#18 grumpy dad

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Posted 26 January 2014 - 09:59 AM

Hi

 

( Any recommendations for coolant flush? )

 

yes 3 or 4 dish washer tablets leave in for a day or 2 if you can

and drive

 

rad  cap the higher the pressure the higher the boil point of the wharter 



#19 AGRO_RB

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 04:57 AM

Bugger, I just bought liquid coolant flush too...

So would fitting a 15lb cap at least solve the problem of it boiling over as it has been? Will obviously replace water pump and do a compression test later on but if that gets it driveable without stewing itself then it's certainly a cheap fix...

Only just realised the 7lb cap is meant for 850s, I wonder why my car came fitted with one?

#20 Dan

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 07:49 AM

Yes fan is blowing through the radiator, plastic 12 blade fan still in place. The electric is merely an auxiliary, not a replacement.

Blowing? If it's an aux fan presumably it's between the rad and the wing so it needs to be pulling, not pushing.

Yes Mini has used lots of rad caps over the years, you need the right one for the car not just one for a Mini! Lots changed in 41 years of production, including the basic principles of how systems are put together. I wouldn't put a 7lb cap on anything personally but it's sold because it is original to some models.

Edited by Dan, 28 January 2014 - 07:52 AM.


#21 AGRO_RB

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 11:16 AM

Sad thing is I'm generally pretty finicky with what parts I use, the only listings I found on minispares when I did my order was the 7lb, a blanking cap and overflow cap. I only found the 15lb cap today after abit of digging...

That said part shops here generally only sell you one option anyway so it's pretty hit and miss.

Fan is pulling through the wing and pushing air through the radiator, should I reverse it if I decide to keep it?

Edited by AGRO_RB, 28 January 2014 - 11:18 AM.


#22 jime17

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Posted 28 January 2014 - 11:42 AM

Both fans should be sending air the same direction.

Ie. Belt driven fan pushing air through rad. Aux fan pulling air through from engine bay through rad.

#23 AGRO_RB

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 01:40 AM

Ah, okay, I thought the engine driven fan pulled air from the wing through the radiator rather than trying to push against the high pressure air from the wheel well, might explain why the aux fan wasn't as effective as I expected it to be.

Started the car this morning and let it run between idle and 2100 rpm for about half an hour in 24 degree heat, temp got up to just under halfway, still steam in the filler neck though. Everything sounds normal, no smoke, no knocks, no abnormal missing, tappets need setting though as they are noisy. Still no sign of milky oil, oil residue in the water or any sludge around the cap either. Unfortunately I can't drive at the moment as I'm suspended for 3 months for demerit points so won't be able to do anything other than a flush and mechanical work at the moment.

Is it worth getting the head off and replacing the gasket anyway for the sake of 15 quids worth of parts? Is there anything else I should look at too? Thermostat is working but is it worth removing and just fitting a blanking sleeve?

Edited by AGRO_RB, 29 January 2014 - 01:42 AM.


#24 Ethel

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 11:27 AM

The plastic engine fan can can be put on the wrong way round and still blow (less), the blades are aerofoils.



#25 Earwax

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 01:09 PM

Hi Agro - not good news re the overheating, but it seems as if you escaped further damage.  If it is running okay now, once flushed, coolant filled and pressurised to 14 or 15 psi ( i just use Trident  rad caps here  in AUs - common as ) then your boiling temp will raise further and be over 114 C-   you should check the blade direction ( stated on the yellow fan body) and get those fans working in synch as explained above pushed through by mech fan and pulled through by thermo.

 

interestingly i have heard of 'tales' of overheating in certain high wind conditions when the outside wind pressure negates the under fender low pressure zone and the hot air can't escape - plausible in theory but not sure of it.. Given you are in the south island i would definately still recommend a thermostat in winter or you will potentially be running too cold for too long in winter - 

 

I would change the oil / filter as a matter of course (sorry if i missed this) , if you are not seeing /hearing signs of blown HG - it is up to you whether to replace the gasket - knowing my luck i would break off the thermo housing-   but it would give peace of mind. 



#26 AGRO_RB

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Posted 30 January 2014 - 12:53 PM

Yeah that was my biggest worry, especially being down in Dunedin now where sub zero temperatures aren't uncommon. In all honesty I'll probably remove the electric fan completely, if not wire it up to a thermo switch as opposed to the manual switch I have it on now. I'll see what Repco and Supercheap have listed in terms of caps and make sure it's a 15lb one this time. I think the other issue was the 7lb cap I have is also for short neck radiators so I'm wondering if it was actually doing anything at all to block off the overflow, hence the amount of coolant pouring out of it and the subsequent boiling of what was left.

To be honest I think I will get the head off and do the gasket. It'll be a good chance to get the head tickled up a little and planed too before it goes back on the motor, why not eh :P and as you said, peace of mind...

#27 Jordan18

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 03:55 PM

Can anyone help? I have a fresh built 1275 took it round the block a few times while trying to get a good ignition setting, it seems close enough until I get it done in the next week or so. But I took it out just and the temp was up to 120 and cut out and wouldn't start. When I got it started any type of throttle would make it cut out again. Could this be down to the timing and the set up of the carb. Or something more serious. I would like to get a Mobil mechanic to do the set up correctly of anyone knows of one in the Bristol area that would help.

Thanks,
Jordan

#28 tiger99

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 06:23 PM

Timing, mixture, problems in cooling system. You should check all three. Start with state of radiator, water pump, coolant and fan belt.

#29 nicklouse

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 08:24 PM

Can anyone help? I have a fresh built 1275 took it round the block a few times while trying to get a good ignition setting, it seems close enough until I get it done in the next week or so. But I took it out just and the temp was up to 120 and cut out and wouldn't start. When I got it started any type of throttle would make it cut out again. Could this be down to the timing and the set up of the carb. Or something more serious. I would like to get a Mobil mechanic to do the set up correctly of anyone knows of one in the Bristol area that would help.
Thanks,
Jordan


Fresh engine! Sorry with all the issues you have posted up recently it sounds like a lemon.

What did you actually but. Full power unit of just an engine?

And where from?

#30 Jordan18

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Posted 18 September 2016 - 09:23 PM

Can anyone help? I have a fresh built 1275 took it round the block a few times while trying to get a good ignition setting, it seems close enough until I get it done in the next week or so. But I took it out just and the temp was up to 120 and cut out and wouldn't start. When I got it started any type of throttle would make it cut out again. Could this be down to the timing and the set up of the carb. Or something more serious. I would like to get a Mobil mechanic to do the set up correctly of anyone knows of one in the Bristol area that would help.
Thanks,
Jordan

Fresh engine! Sorry with all the issues you have posted up recently it sounds like a lemon.
What did you actually but. Full power unit of just an engine?
And where from?
I bought the full engine, I have checked it over and it all seems good. I am still learning and I'm trying to teach my self to time the mini as j have never done something like this and this is my first car. so I think I'll hold this the main culprit as well as the mixture. Regards to cooling the fan belt is brand new and I have a dual core fletcher radiator. I also don't have a thermostats as I've been told this also helps cool the engine. I am looking for some one to tune the car for me as I don't want to risk per damage to the car

Edited by Jordan18, 18 September 2016 - 09:24 PM.






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